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Here is a good link from another site. Basically the same procedure as us, I think it is also the same part numbers as well for the gov springs, not 100% sure though...

Tech:
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...q&nr=144&catnr=20&prog=1&lang=en&onlynewfaq=1




***It would be really nice to get some pump adjustment and governor spring mods articles posted up in this section that we can make part of the FAQ ****
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
i am assuming i have the 2400 rpm govenor spring....
also assuming the 3600 govenor spring means rpm....
will this higher rpm be maxing out the engine and create a problem?
is the engine able to handle this increase?
thanks for the imput....
love this forum
 

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Well, I can only speak for the short term durability. I dont know if my engine has been modified but it will turn 2960 rpm. Did not know this when I picked up my van and drove it home(140 miles) with the throttle wide open. NO problems during or after.
 

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for what its worth, I've heard that if you get over 3200 rpms, you should replace your valve springs with heavy duty ones. I believe the kit with those is less than $150...
 

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These are pretty much the same limits as the 6BT performance. The valves start to float around 32-3400. So, after you add the 60lb valve springs you can run it up to almost 4500 with stock internals. Adding the power is cheap, but getting it to the ground is the spendy part.
 

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Here is one of the best photo How-To's regarding the Gov' spring. It shows how to index the fuel pin and addresses the foot that people grind off or delete altogether. The author, Den has some real genius stuff here and there on the net. You may not see the circle he put on the foot unless you download this page and then click on the pic. It's a good read, good luck to all on here with your projects.

http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor_Spring/
 
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