3:15 am and the turbo rebuild was just finished. (work will be a drag tomorrow) It was nice not being disturbed while putting this back together. I would recomend you try to find a time and place to do the same. The assembly took me about 3 hr. This was really taking my time and double checking everything. After a few of these I could see this taking less than an hour.
NOTE: Before disassembly double read the balancing section of the manual. This will help you index (mark) everything that needs to be ballanced. I forgot to mark the oil slinger and thrust collar.
The balancing was the weak link in my rebuild. I just hoped it was correct from the factory and put it back like it was. The thrust collar and slinger are machined round parts. Hopefully they are ballanced pieces so they will not affect my ballance.
The manual from Holset is good! Here are some suggestions and things to watch for durring assembly.
1) When you print your manual, I got mine online, make 2 copies of the exploded view and component list. For the H1C these are pages 2-2 and 2-3. Let one copy in its place in the manual. You will constantly refer to these drawings durring the rebuild so keep the 2nd copy on the work bench.
2) Durring the disassembly and assembly I was able to hold the H1C bearing housing in a vice. I don't know if this would work with a different turbo. Place the oil inlet and outlet on the jaws. Be carefull with the clamping pressure. I have brass inserts for the jaws which protects the surfaces. You have to clamp hard enough to hold well but not hard enough to hurt the return oil gasket face.
3) The torque values are small for this rebuild. Make sure your torque wrench goes this low. 4.5 nm or 40 lb in.
4)The first thing you do durring assembly is install the inner bearing retaining rings. These are a pain to get in square. I used a socket head 3/8 bolt head stuck in from the opposite side to keep them square while installing. Do this some place where you will find the rings when you drop them, because you will. The manual says to install these with the bevel facing the bearing. I checked mine under a lit magnifying glass. There was no bevel. The bearings are then installed, then the outter retaining ring. The outers are easier, but make sure they are seated in the ring properly.
5) You are instructed to use a split ring pleirs to install the split ring seal on the turbine. Naturally I didn't have this, but the snap ring pliers will do the job if your careful. Line the ring up on the pins and gently open it to slide it on the turbine. If you have strong fingernails they may do the job.
6) Installing the turbine with the new seal ring was tricky. Make tripple sure it is lined up correctly in the bearing housing so the seal isn't damaged. Work with it until it gently pushes into position. If it won't go in pull it out to make sure the seal has not come out of the grove and try again.
7) I could not hold my compressor wheel when tightening the nut. It turned with the nut. I had to keep backing the nut off and compenstaing for the turning to get the wheel in the correct position when the nut was torqued.
8) The new piston ring seal on the oil slinger simply slides on by hand.
9) Putting this slinger with the seal into the diffuser is a bit tricky, like putting the turbine with its seal in. Be gentle and make sure it is propery aligned. If it doesn't go pull it out and look to make sure it is still in the grove all the way around. Then try again. I was about to whack mine, but pulled it out for a look. It was out on one end. I would have ruined pieces if I had hit it.
10) It seemed to me putting the compressor housing on before the turbine housing was the right thing to do. Wrong. The compressor housing is put on last so you can take your runout readings with it off. The air intake is in the way of the dial indicator. The manual does have you put the O-ring on before the turbine housing is installed. Wait to put the O-ring on until you are going to install the housing
11) I did have to tap my compressor housing back on. Oil it lightly on the mating surfaces before putting it on.
My runout readings after completion were:
radial - .012" with a spec of .012 - .018
axial - .001" with a spec of .001 - .005
Mine are right on the minimums. I would have liked to see the axial a bit higher. .001" is pretty close to nothing. Hopefully the bearing housing expands less than the turbine shaft. Initially I was concerned with the radial runout. Before looking at the specs, but after taking my readings, I thought the whole rebuild was for nothing. .012 looked like a lot of play.
Before I was concerned about the clearance between the bearing housing and turbine housing. I put it together without shims like I was considering just to see how it worked. It seems fine so I am not taking it back apart. I did use anti-seize on that joint to make removal easier later if necessary.
Originally my turbo had lock tabs used on the diffuser to bearing housing bolts. The rebuild kit had raised shoulder small head bolts that I assumed were for this that did not allow the use of the lock tabs. I assumed this was an upgrade so I used the new bolts and not the lock system.
The kit included everything I needed. There were a few extra parts in the kit since it also services other turbos. I had 8 lock washers, an E clip , and an oversized exhaust manifold gasket left over. Overall this rebuild was not as hard as I expected it to be.
I expected ceramic seals, springs, and special gizmos. I didn't find any of that. I don't understand why these turbos don't leak more oil. The sealing isn't so great.
