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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To Whom is Concerned:

I have a clean, garaged 1967 Mustang that I would like to convert to diesel and it was suggested that the 4BT could be the engine.

If anyone is knowledgable in these matters, I am looking to spend some time and money to make this a reality. This project will be videotaped in high definition.

67 Mustang is currently in NorCal north east of Sacramento in Sierra Foothills, but can be moved to Southern California. Open to other options as well.

Have a rocking day!

Str8up
 

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How much height do you have to play with?
These are tall motors, you may need to do something creative to make them physically fit.
 

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How much height do you have to play with?
These are tall motors, you may need to do something creative to make them physically fit.
a nice looking cowl hood might be able to help...

for low height, a modified 6bt airhat would probably be the easiest.

how much $$ are you looking to spend on it?
 

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If I were looking into a diesel for a car, I would use the Mercedes 5cyl 3.0 liter Diesel found in the 300D's. Good power, high revs (4800rpms), reasonable weight, compact, effecient, quiet, dependable. My 240 (the 4cyl, non-turbo cousin) scoots out pretty good and gets me a consistant 25mpg. If I ever adjust the valves and do some other maintenance I can get it back to the 32 that the PO got with it. Pretty good for a heavy sedan. Your Mustang is lighter, so I'd bet your results might be better.

Just a thought.
 

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Hmmmm

It would seem me that you have a lot more options besides the 4bt seeing as you only want a 2wd and could keep the transmission from a donor vehicle. You also are much more limited on RPMS with the 4bt.
 

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a nice looking cowl hood might be able to help...

for low height, a modified 6bt airhat would probably be the easiest.

how much $$ are you looking to spend on it?
I was thinking more dry sump to lower the entire engine. But that works too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No rush. I am open to suggestions. I would love to have decent performance, not looking to do roll cages or anything, but the goal is to try biodiesel or a blend.

Since the car is stock, I'd like to keep it looking as stock as possible.

But I am all ears, and really appreciate your knowledge and time.

WES
 

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i would get some measurements of the engine bay for starters. the 105hp is i believe 30.6" tall including the intake pipe that runs accross the head that can be lowered. that's probably 2" i would guess, so 28.5 is about your min height, i think. That's from of the oil pan sump.
 

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This thread is from TDR, this nice guy is installing a 4bt in a camaro f-body!!

I know it's not a mustang, but similiar amounts of room underhood, maybe this will help you.

Jhyneman's thread of his 4bt camaro I posted on the thread so you guys can view it for 5 days ;)

Mikey
 

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One of the things that I recommend with your conversion especially since I just finished my F-body is that if you use a 4bt modify a couple of components, or should we say use a couple of different components. 1st Grumman used diffent engine mounts than the Chevy they also used a differnt turbo/exhaust manifold setup. One nice thing about this engine is that the exhaust manifold can be turned over and ran upside down if needed. also most engines came rear sump but they are easily converted to front sump. you can turn the pan around with no problems. you will need to purchace a diffent pickup or you will have to cut the one and shorten it.. One thing that I wish I would have done is to cut and section my oil pan and make it shallower. I have major clearance issues and had to make a skid plate. the ford engine mounts will allow you to get the engine lower in the engine bay. I could have run the boost around the front of the engine and gotten away with only a 1 1/2" rise or bump on the hood. but then again I am using a firebird. I think your mustang may have a deeper engine comp. Just remember this engine is about 100 #'s heavier than the stock small block so you may want to add heavier springs and if the model mustang your working on is a unibody you will want to subframe the car. When I launched my f-body the first time I had alot of body flex. Cooling will be a big issue in your car also. I had to step my radiator up to a 3 core radiator, and add 4000 cfm fans. Depending on the style trans you use. You will need to consider a good trans cooler. The diesel has a tendency to bake a automatic trans designed for a gas engine. Also if using a auto o/d, Consider a torque converter that will keep your o/d locked in at your toruqe power range or else it will be shifting constantly. the torque range starts at 1300 and runs to 1800. A good stall speed for a torque converter will be around 1500 rpm. I don't know what gears your running but my f-body had 3.42 gears and the engine really has to wine to keep 70 mph. I am looking at a set of 2.72/ or 3.08. to keep the rpms down. Remember these engines were turning tires that were 32 inches tall to 35 in tall. and most bread trucks had a max speed of 55 mph. there is alot of math to do but it is worth it when it is finished. right now I am getting about 33 mpg and the car runs about like a small 6 cyl gas engine Hope this helps
 

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If I were looking into a diesel for a car, I would use the Mercedes 5cyl 3.0 liter Diesel found in the 300D's. Good power, high revs (4800rpms), reasonable weight, compact, effecient, quiet, dependable. My 240 (the 4cyl, non-turbo cousin) scoots out pretty good and gets me a consistant 25mpg. If I ever adjust the valves and do some other maintenance I can get it back to the 32 that the PO got with it. Pretty good for a heavy sedan. Your Mustang is lighter, so I'd bet your results might be better.

Just a thought.
I have a 300D turbo, a 300D nonturbo, and a 350SD turbo---The only one that is not a dog performance wise is the 350SD. I think you would be VERY disappointed in a Mercedes 5 cyl turbo diesel. Even if the Mustang is a little lighter. The pump is pretty much maxed out the way it comes from the factory. Definetly go with the 4BT if you can make it fit. With big block suspension parts you can handle the weight. A beefed 9 inch would hold the torque of a 4BT in a light vehicle like the Mustang.------GO FOR IT! Definetly will follow this build.---:)
Bob B.
 

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I'm watching your thread closely, I am looking into a turbo diesel for my 1961 Falcon (unibody predecessor to your Mustang). The MB engine is 26" from the pan to the valve cover (I5). The Cummins would be interesting but your/my hoodline is so darn low, even if you mod and drop the crossmember. I'm also looking into the Isuzu 3.9L as it is more car-like in smoothness and rpm range.

Def have to bomb the MB to make it fun, even with vehicle weight at 2,800. Plus you'd really need to use an automatic (programmed electronic is best) to maintain good dampening.

Right now, without any measurements for the 4bt, I can't imagine doing it without cutting the hood. The transmissions will be HUGE compared to the stock Falcon/Mustang, so the tunnel would need some massaging of some sort...

...the more info/ideas on this, the better.
 

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Ive been thinking about doing this conversion in my 88 tbird (3.8L v6) or my 96 stang (4.6L v8) so it will be interesting to see how urs turns out
 

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I guess I'll be the odd man out and suggest going with the dmax. I love the Cummins, but they are tall engines, and you don't have that much depth in a mustang unless you want a cowl hood. Dmaxes are fairly compact, are proving to be good engines, and with EFI live, can be monsters. There was an impala I believe that had a dmax swapped in some time ago, looked pretty slick.
 

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dmax is good no dobt but in long run 4bta will do you better imho 4bta lasts longer and are more effiecent then v8 modeled deisels plus 4bta is a torque monster with little to no mods no offence intended to anyone else here
 
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