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Discussion Starter #1
This build has been off to a slow start, but I'm finally ready to get serious about transplanting my 89 4BD1T into my 1993 80 series Landcruiser. I will try to document the process of putting the engine back together as well as performing the install into the LC. My plan involves using Dustin's adapter as well as the AA/Marks 4WD adapter between the 4L80E and stock transfercase. I will also ask a lot of questions along the way in the hopes that others who venture down this path can use this thread as a guide.

The goals of this build are as follows:

200-250hp
500 ft lbs of torque
Simple, Clean, Effective
Spend $$ where I need to, but don't go overboard spending money on items that are not trully needed.
**Be ready for Moab next March**

I plan on using compound turbos to achieve a maximum of 35 lbs of boost which should be able to meet the hp and torque goals above. I've chosen 35 lbs of boost in the hopes that I can reuse the stock head bolts without having to call ARP and order up some studs. The LC currently sits on 35's and will retain the factory 4.10 gearing which should provide about 2250 rpms at 75 mph which is a little high, but not high enough to warrant a gear change at the moment.

I picked up the engine several years ago (did I mention that I'm off to a slow start) from a salvage yard for $300. It stared and ran, but was definitely running rough. The odometer showed 210,000 miles on the truck. Upon tear down of the turbo, it was seized and something had destroyed both the turbine and compressor blades of the turbo. My guess is something was ingested taking out the compressor blades and they inturn took out the turbine blades after visiting the pistons and valves. A compression test showed that I was really low on 1 cylinder and had leakage in the other 3 so a complete teardown of the engine is in order. Upon pulling the head, each of the pistons had cracks in them starting in the piston bowls. The liners looks good with no visible scuffing.

Below are two pictures of the engine and my completely overkill engine stand and lifting device I put together.

The stand allows me to do the rebuild and with a few other components that are not visible, I can run the engine after it is all put together.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are some pictures of the rest of the stand that will allow me to run the engine when it is all put back together. I built this stand when Carcrafter was the only kit available and since Dustin's adapters no longer use the original bell housing, I may have to modify part of my engine stand in the coming days to work without using the factory bell housing.
 

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Your torque goals require a modified injection pump and your hp goals require either/both a modified injection pump and higher rpm.

600Nm and 200hp is about the point these engines run out of fuel with a stock pump.
The rest of it sounds doable.

*edit almost 2 years later*
Better information came to light after the above post. The Isuzu pump has enough fuel for around 800Nm if all burnt cleanly and around 200kw. At higher rpm of course.
*/edit*
 

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Discussion Starter #5
600 Nm is about 442 ft lbs for us that are metric challenged.

Is the limitation in fuel flow through the pump or fuel flow through the injectors?

I've found a local shop that will check out the pump, rebuild if necessary, and also open up my injectors 30% if I want them to. The don't do the extruding in-house, but have a shop they use with good results. Will the 30% injectors buy me much more hp/torque with a pump that is left stock?

Also, are the idle characteristics of injectors that are opened 30% any different than a standard injector?

Next question I have. The liner grading marks on not legible on my block. I can see the ink stamp, but there is no way to ready it. The pistons are marked though; B,A,A,C. From what I've read, most seem pretty happy with Rudy's re-build kits in the standard offering i.e. ungraded. Has anyone had a bad experience with using his kits?

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here are a few more pics.

One of the rig that will receive the engine.

A pic of the turbo carnage from the stock motor.

A pic of my cracked pistons. All of them looked similar to this.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My first real setback.

I finished tearing down the engine so that all is left is the bare block.

Everything was looking good until I pulled the camshaft. The oil pump drive gear on the camshaft and the oil pump drive gear itself have been chewing each other up.
After pulling the camshaft all the way out, the camshaft bearings look like they have been sand blasted with really course grit.

My best guess is that the camshaft drive gear on the front of the engine was not fully seated and the camshaft was allow to move backwards. It's in that rearward position that allows the two gears to mesh the way they have been. Also the shiny part of the cam lobes is only on the front 1/2 portion of each lobe, not centered like you would expect.

Bottom line is that both the camshaft and oil pump drive gear are toast. The camshaft drive gear is also pretty pitted so it needs replacement as well. The idler gear has a little bit of pitting, but not nearly as bad as the camshaft drive gear.

Not 100% certain about what to do next. I'm afriad to call Isuzu and ask how much those parts will cost.

Has anybody else had problems with the camshafts?

Adam
 

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... Also the shiny part of the cam lobes is only on the front 1/2 portion of each lobe, not centered like you would expect.
I've seen the off-center wear on lobes before and wouldn't be concerned about it. I am told that the cam lobes are intentionally ground at a slight angle to make the lifters turn in their bores.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3307190944.html

This is for sale very near me. I could use a couple small things, but not $500 worth of stuff. If the 4BD2 cam will work maybe I could pick this up (pulling the pan and checking cam beforehand) and ship the parts you need.
69rambler, Thank you for the offer. I did some calling around locally and may have found a 4bd2 that could work. He is going to pull the camshaft tomorrow and then I will go over and take a look at it. He also had a 4bd1t, but the cam was a little rusty and had a small piece missing on the side of the first lobe. It might clean up just fine, but I'll take a look at the second one to see if it's better. The good news is that he also has the oil drive and timing gears I need to get back on track.

I went to work tonight cleaning off all of the gasket material from my block as well as 20+ years of caked on grime. Thank goodness for a 90 degree die grinder and fine sanding disks. Some of those gaskets didn't want to be scrapped off with a razor blade.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've seen the off-center wear on lobes before and wouldn't be concerned about it. I am told that the cam lobes are intentionally ground at a slight angle to make the lifters turn in their bores.
That makes sense. I had a small indent on lifter #1, but the other 7 looked fine. My guess is that the camshaft was chattering, which severly pitted the bearings and drive gear and was probably a little harsh on that first lifter. I'll grab a few spare lifters when I look at the camshaft.

Thank you,

Adam
 

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Nice engine stand! I am jealous. If you get that 4BD1T, I need a couple parts.....

I am working on getting mine torn down too. Liner puller is being made, machine shop is ready for it. I have a rudy kit and have heard good things. My liner numbers werent on my block either.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's been a few busy days. Finally got the engine pulled all the way down. The only thing left is the camshaft bearings. How do you remove the last one closest to the rear of the block without pulling the block plug next to it? It does not appear this part comes with the rebuild kits from Rudy's. Did you buy that plug separately or were you able to salvage it and replace it?

Below are pics of my high tech liner puller tool. Worked like a champ and only about 100 turns of the nut to pull each liner.

Before I pull the trigger on a rebuild kit is there any reason to not use one of Rudy's kits?

Thanks,

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lastly, due to having to look for some replacement parts for my damaged engine, I came across a complete truck that had a complete overhaul of the engine in 2008. Since that time, it has never left the owners 10 acre property and has served it's time hauling manure from the stables to the field. After the hired help burned out the 3rd clutch, it has sat for the past 3-4 years in the barn. I bought the whole thing for $1200. The owner used to own a truck shop and said the OEM parts cost him $5K to rebuild and he knew I was getting a good deal. He was very striaight up so I have no reason to doubt him.

This is the filthiest engine I've ever seen and is layered with dust, straw and more dust, but after sitting for several years, it fired right up and purred like a kitten. Even without an exhaust, it was extremely quiet. I'll keep this one as a spare and keep rebuilding the one I'm already working on. Maybe I'll have to repower my jeep next.

I'm going down Monday to pull the parts I want to keep (engine, radiator, control cables, etc) and leaving the rest of the truck for the previous owner to cut up. If there is something you need from what is left over, let me know. The manual tranny is spoken for as well since I'm trading that for the parts I need complete engine #1.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Forgot to mention that the dump bed wasn't part of the deal. He sold that for $1800 and it was very rusty. The hoist was electric and not PTO driven.

Anyone know what the fair market value of manual tranny is for one of these?

Also, I ended up driving out the plug at the end of the camshaft. It's actually a pretty thick piece of curved steel. With a little bit of RTV during re-assembly, it will seal up just fine.

Adam
 

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Nobody seems to want the transmission (no OD) but there is a market for the flywheels and bellhousings.

Does it have cable or rod linkage between the shifter and the transmission?
 
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