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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Update my situation, first of all what I should have done when it started puking was to take the serpentine belt off and see if that had any effect. I didn’t realize how the bypass worked. I took the upper and lower water connections off along with the water pump and couldn’t find any obstructions. That bypass hole is pretty small and if something got in there since it was cold maybe that was my problem. I back flushed everything including the radiator. Didn’t find anything and put it back together and pressure tested it. With the exception of one very small leak it held 15 lbs for over 3 hours. I put some sealer on it (being careful not to use too much) and left it overnight to cure. I’ll pressure it up later today and see if I got the leak fixed. If it’s ok I’ll start it with the belt off and see what happens and go from there. One more thing, I found the “jiggler pin” to be in the 7 o’clock position rather than the 12 o’clock. No telling how it got there. That could maybe help to burp it when filling the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
All back together and still getting bubbles in the radiator. Did notice the top hose was getting warm before the thermostat opened, jiggler pin in correct position maybe. Always stayed cold until thermostat opened before. At any rate the rear main needs replaced and it’s going to be easier to just pull the front clip and take the engine out. I’ve got another project for a friend that has to be taken care of first. Will update as I progress. Thanks for all the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Took a chance and drove it today with a lifeline on standby. Drove it 60 plus miles in 90+ degree temperature with A/C running and no problems. The bubbles come and go not using any water and temp stays constant aroun 180. I’m gonna drive it and if it shoots craps at least I’ll know what the problem is.
 
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