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Discussion Starter #1,202
Didn't work I got a "Report" function.
 

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So it turned out that my Steering box mount had broken some Welds. I took it off (Major PITB) and got the Steering Gear checked out. Rewelded the parts that had broke loose so they won't break loose again repainted and re assembled. Now tomorrow I get to start bleeding the system which should only take a few hours.

Then I can get back onto the doors.

Randy
 

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So it turned out that my Steering box mount had broken some Welds. I took it off (Major PITB) and got the Steering Gear checked out. Rewelded the parts that had broke loose so they won't break loose again repainted and re assembled. Now tomorrow I get to start bleeding the system which should only take a few hours.

Then I can get back onto the doors.

Randy
Do you have a steering box brace? Over time I had the same issue on my CJ where the mount would break the welds. used the M.O.R.E brace. Lots of people also go to the H1 steering box as an upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,205 (Edited)
Smooth: this was a little different than a stock steering box mount. On the Late Model Chevy Truck Steering Box, the mounting tabs have 3 at one height and 1 shorter one.

I had a flat plate and made 4 spacers of the correct height and then fusion welded them on the back side. What happened is 3 of the welds which weren't nearly as deep as I thought they were, cracked and the box with free to move side to side about 1/8" and only held somewhat in place by the one weld that didn't fail. The loud snap I heard when I cranked the wheel for the U Turn was the last weld breaking. I drove the car home about 3 miles but had to go slow as the steering was pretty sloppy. Once I took the box off to have it checked I saw 3 of the spacers were loose and it became evident what had happened.

I took the mount off the frame which is a major PITB as it is also the right side of the drivers side spring hanger, and held in place by 6, 1/2" G8 Bolts plus the Springs Pivot Bolt. I had to use the crane to take the weight off the front end so the spring bolt would knock out.

I re-welded the back side of the spacers and then did a fillet weld on the outside of each spacer so they aren't going anywhere now. Apparently I had forgotten to do this when I made the thing so I got to go thru 3 days of work taking it apart, getting it checked, Welding, Sand Blasting, Repainting Reassembly, bleeding the hydraulic system, and then cleaning up the mess afterwards.

It works perfectly now, and I shouldn't have any more problems with that area. As you can see it is considerably stronger than the Stock Jeep Mount which is 2 pieces stamped from 1/8" material that bolt together and attach to the frame. They definitely need the Brace.


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My Yellow Jeep had a similar mount to this with the same type of steering box and it pushed 35 x 15.50 Swampers around for years and never failed.

So anyway this is all fixed and I can get back to Bumpers and Door Latches. I've got the rear Bumper and Tire Carrier designed and all the materials in house to make it, just have to get on it.

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On another note:

This weekend 5/29-5/31/2020 we saw the results of what happens when you try to coup up Free People for 10 weeks. All that Rioting we saw in 40!!! Major Cities !!! wasn't caused by a guy getting Murdered by some Stupid Cops.
It may have been started by that, but what I saw in LA on TV last night was people, None of which were over 35, running wild and looting stores and just simply being BAD!

Lots of pent up anger there, and the Cops made a convenient target, and excuse to get out of the house. LA's Mayor is an Idiot and tried to push his power a bit too far with his 10 week lock down of LA City that he wants to continue to August. Probably ain't gonna happen now as everybody has kind of said we've had enough of your stupidity and we ain't doin' it any more!

Life goes on!

Randy
 

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OK,,, the "Edit" function works now, but says I can only edit 10 posts in 7 days,,, except I've only edited one?

Gotta Love IT guys.

Randy
 

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Moving right along. I was successful in getting my door latches to work correctly. I bought two door latches from the latch company but they were way too big and not shaped right so they had to be cut down and attached to SS plates so they would interface with the body and doors correctly. Similar to what I had on there before but utilizing the new strikers instead of the round pins from before. These strikers work perfectly and don't vibrate open like the round ones did.

So it's on to final fitting of the doors, and paint.
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Yesterday my big project was working on the doors and raising the idle. Doors no problem, they fit in the openings now and are as good as they are going to get. Not thrilled about how these ACME doors fit the body and top but there is little I can do to make them better except paint them which will look good after done.

Raising the idle up is a PITB!!!!! It's real easy to get to! See pic.

The Lock Nut on the Idle Adjust Screw is nearly impossible to get a wrench on and actually move. See pic.

I have about 10 different 10 MM Wrench's from various MFG's accumulated over a lifetime and none of them are timed right to get on the nut and move it before running into either the Head or the Pump. After fighting it for an hour and throwing things, I decided to go to the hardware store and buy another wrench and cut it up and re-weld it in a favorable position.

Apparently the sun was shining up my Arse yesterday, as the wrench I bought for $5 went right onto the nut and I was able to break it loose and then use the open end to spin the nut loose. I raised the idle up to @900 rpms in neutral and 850 in gear so the vehicle doesn't shake as bad at stop lights. I now have 11, 10 MM wrenches!

The DeScrambler now has nearly 1500 miles on it, and is running well, and going down the freeway very nicely.

Back on the doors tomorrow. Sanding for paint.

Randy
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Yes that idle screw lock nut can be a right PITA, after a lot of mucking around with it once I got the idle right I just put a blob of silicon on the screw and it has held it tight for several years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,210
Been sanding on the doors for the last few days. There was alot of Gel- Coat color and texture that had to come off, Currently filling small cracks and dings.

These were Fiberglass Doors made by Acme and designed to fit Acme Hardtops which were shaped slightly differently than stock Jeep full doors. The bottom is the same but the top half of the door opening in the top is what is different. Lots of trial and error to get them as close as I can . By no means are they perfect, they are just as good as I can do.

I have to paint the inside first because I want the doors laying flat so I can get a good thick coat on the inside and not have to worry about runs and such. That's where most of the wear would be, hence the thick coat. The entire inside will be Cardinal 6400 series Polyurethane #26270 Exterior Battleship Grey which is the same color as I have all my Exterior Navy stuff painted. In fact my painter gave me the paint, and hopefully they will be painting the top for me as well as it is too big for me to do in the garage. Same paint and this paint is really good stuff. I have parts directly exposed to the sun in the Fleet for 15 years now and they still look like they were just painted last week!

The outside of the doors will be Two Tone,,, Grey on the top half to match the Top and Windshield and White on the bottom half of the doors to mesh with the body. It will look good when done.

Back to sanding and filling.

Randy
 
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Is that paint a one-step urethane? Is it available in different colors? Who is the manufacturer?

When I converted my 1998 Dodge QCSB 12 valve from 2WD to 4WD, I painted the 4WD frame, axles and all suspension parts (and the NV4500) with gloss black Valspar Tractor and Implement paint. It's reasonably durable, but the sun does weather it more than I expected. Valspar has recently stopped making Tractor and Implement paint. I purchased Tallmans Gloss Black Industrial Paint about 3 months ago. Tallmans is an agricultural paint that lays down like the Valspar product, but I don't how they compare.

I have a utility trailer to paint and replace the boards on soon. Sounds like a proven military grade paint is exactly what I'm looking for.
 

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Yes it is available in any color you want . 26270 is the color code for Exterior Navy Equipment. 26383 is the interior color and is slightly lighter.

My 95 Dodge's Red Color is PR4

Cardinal 6400 series is a Single Stage Polyurethane Industrial Level Paint , that is particularly resistant to UV degradation.

It is mixed 4 parts Paint to one part Reducer and one part Hardener. It can be "Force Cured" in an oven or will go off in less than 24 hours on it's own as long as the Temp is above 70 F. Most of the stuff I've painted at home have been let dry on their own. My Navy stuff all got cooked.

I painted my frame with it but I must say I did suck job on that, and really should have had it Sand Blasted and Powder Coated. My Prep Work on the Frame was less than it should have been, and I didn't get the paint on thick enough as I was trying to do it with a Touch Up Gun and run the Rotisserie at the same time. The gun just wouldn't put out enough volume to get the paint to whet out.

All the individual piece parts on the Undercarriage, Spring Hangers and the Engine were painted with the same gun but were small enough so I could get around them easily and get good results with many coats laid down over about 30 minutes.

Randy
 
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