Char: I have several different winches I can put on it but the install is down the list. The list is getting shorter but things keep popping up as I drive it. My Temp gauge just quits sometimes, and it will come right back when I turn the ignition off and back on so I don't know whats going on with that. Also my EGT is useless as it reads all over the place or zero most of the time. All the rest of the Gauges work fine. I have to take the Steering wheel off today and tighten the screw that hold the turn signal lever in place.
The Weather stripping will be a major upgrade to the comfort level as it will cut down on Interior Noise alot. Just putting that piece of carpet in the back cut down the noise alot,,, and made me think I probably need to spread some Dynamat around the cargo area. I've got plenty, and right now it is on the Firewall and Floor back to the step behind the seats.
On the Front Bumper I have 4 longer bolts in the center 4 positions and they are there to be used for the Eventual Winch Mount for a Warn 8274. I have two of those and one will make it to the Jeep. The other might end up on my trailer.
Now that the Jeep is drivable it obviously is more fun to drive it than work on it, but driving exposes the weak points and makes more things to do on the list. And the list goes on!
I'd think the gauge issue would quickly move to the top of the list. Intermittent or useless data coming from those can be dangerous. Either you have bad ground, bad sensors, bad gauges, or a mixture of those. It may take a year or two for all the issues to show their faces.
These are all "Isspro Gauges" and the 3 primary ones OP, WT, and EGT all have 'Amplifiers' which may be the problem.
OP, no problem, WT just quits then starts back up when power is interrupted.(turn key off, and back on.) Reads accurately when on.
EGT is useless. all over the place sometimes at 600 then 300 then zero all over the place with no rhyme or reason.
I have to get with the Isspro Engineer to help fix it. I think it's a bad probe or maybe the amplifier? Just one more thing to weed out.
Working on finishing the doors right now and will get back to the Gauges a little later.
I tweaked on the doors and windows yesterday and got them to fit the holes pretty close. Now they open and close and latch right. That made a huge difference and Weatherstripping will finish that off nicely.
The weather stripping will be "Unique!"
I took the Steering Wheel apart today and tightened the Screw holding the turn signal lever up, also found I had not fully tightened the actual Steering Wheel Hub??? oops ,,,, That is fixed and everything is fine in there now.
Probably gonna do Dynamat on the Cargo Area Floor, it would be quick and easy to do and cut down on the noise some more. I also really need to find /make a different Pulley to run the A/C So I can use the Big Fluidampr, Vibro Damper I have, as there are some regimes of engine speed that still vibrate more than others. The entire body is fiberglass and it does buzz around at low idle and about 21-2200 RPM's . Not horrible but something that can benefit from some fine tuning.
My Isspro gauges started giving me problems in less than a year. Quickly got tired of messing with them and went back to gauges available in stock at the local Autozone. Don't remember the brand and model. 37 states later, they are still working.
I've been having ISSPRO EV1 gauges in my 1998 Dodge since 2014. The EGT and boost (mechanical) have worked without a problem. The mechanical fuel pressure gauge is a different story. The gauge itself works fine. The issue I've had is the 1/8" tubing between the isolator in the engine compartment and the gauge in the cab must be kept liquid full (no air bubbles) with antifreeze/H20. Over time, the tubing develops air bubbles. It must have a very small leak somewhere, but it is too small to locate. I will probably replace it with an ISSPRO EV2 electric gauge.
I tried to come up with a cure for the ac pulley arrangement but no success outside of making a custom pulley. The factory accessory pulley works fine but was never used with the large harmonic balancer. That came on marine and industrial engines that didn't use ac. The vehicles that did use it with ac had the fan mount in a higher position. One possible was to use a different fan hub like the commercial engines had. That would move the pulley to a slightly higher position but then there's the mechanical fan problem. An ideal situation would have been to engineered your ac compressor mount so you could drive it off the same 8 groove belt. Can be done because I've got one on my work bench but it ain't simple. Requires a reverse fan pulley which would mean your mechanical fan wouldn't be right. I worked that out too but it means a whole different fan and clutch assembly plus a custom adapter. Below is a photo of the fan hub assembly I built. Only part that hasn't been done is the fan mounts. Had them designed and roughed out but other thing have gotten in the way over the last few years.
Those look nice Char, I don't see any other way but to make a pulley, and changing it out will be a real PITB. It was a Real PITB to install the fan when it was on the engine stand out of the car. In the car it will be real Hard ! Luckily I have another Fan mount I can test it on so I don't take it all apart and not have it fit right. Getting the 4 Screws started is the problem. There is virtually no room to access them. It will be lots worse than this.
Making a new pulley was about the only answer I could come up with. How much smaller diameter does it need to be to clear the balancer? I have several different fan hubs in my collection. One is the 91.5-93 Dodge hub that puts the fan in the center of the block and at a slightly higher position. That one wouldn't work because the V belt pulley doesn't fit it and would be in the wrong alignment. One possible is an industrial hub that mounts to 4 bolts on the head. The accessory pulley can mount to that one but the hub bolt holes are 10mm in a 60mm circle instead of 8mm in a 50mm pattern like the stock 4bt. That could be done by simply adding the smaller bolt pattern to the hub. There was even one with the 50mm pattern but that sucker has no internal bearing. I've never figured out how that thing can possible work. No place for a grease fitting either. Just the metal shaft in a cast iron housing. I've looked at that one for years trying to figure out how that could possibly work.
I can't remember how much smaller it has to be I think I remember about 1" smaller than what it is now. I'll check and get back to you, Also these belts are "B" Belts which are the next size up from normal Vee Belts.
After some searching,,,
The Big Damper is 9.75" and the one on there is 8" 1.75/2 = 7/8 so 1" smaller on the A/C pulley will work.
On another note" I installed Dynamat in the Cargo area last night and topped it off with a piece of some gray carpet I had laying around.
The carpet is temporary as there will be a set of drawers in the cargo area up to the top of the wheel wells and carpet on top of that.
That way the Batteries and Air Compressor will be closed in and it will also provide a hiding place for a shotgun! Pretty serious about being armed when in this one, as it does attract attention..
This proved to be well worth the 3 gallons of sweat I generated while doing this!
The test drive revealed more improvement to the noise issue.
Dynamat gave me tons of product, and most of the inside of the body is done now.
I have some lightweight material they provided to use on the underside of the hood which should cut down on the external noise some more. May do that tonight or soon.
All the stuff I'm doing right now is utilizing stuff that has been laying around my storage area for years and I am now putting it to use. Everything I do is improving the Creature Comforts in the car and making it more pleasant to drive.
I have to tell you the Big GM Seats were one of the best things I did on this build. So comfortable.