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Actually my Bro in Law just got back from Las Vegas and the big Thermometer in Baker which is at the bottom of Death Valley was at 123 F !!! That is car killer hot!

Randy

On another note I had a Radiator failure last week. The Inlet Nipple which was moved from the left side to the right side developed a crack around the base and then a leak. The guy who made it originally got burned out so he couldn't do it. After talking to several guys who couldn't even understand what I was asking. I asked one of my Mechanic Buddies and he referred me to a shop in Oxnard, Been around for 50 years!

I dropped the radiator off at 3:45 PM on Friday before Labor Day last week. They called me a 5:30 OM and it was done! I picked it up the next morning and put it back in. It was much easier to re-install than it was to get out in the first place.

They built up a fillet of solder around the base of the nipple so it won't crack again. Excellent work! It all took place because I showed them pics of the Jeep (owner has one) and spent some time getting to know them. They were cool and I was happy as a clam.

It's back together now and working fine. Still can't figure why the Temp Gauge just randomly quits and when I cycle the ignition it comes right back on? I've checked all connections and everything is good? Obviously something isn't good but I'll figure it out eventually.

My EGT Gauge is also Perfectly useless as when it is reading the numbers don't make any sense.

I have found that if I run this engine a little harder (in it's current state of tune you can't really run it that hard) it likes it better. Eventually I'll need to change out the Turbo to one that will bolt up to the existing Piping and spool up faster. IN an earlier post you suggested one that will work for me. I'll have to go back and find it.

Randy
 

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If you have the OEM H1C then the logical turbo would be an HX30W. Randy, been so much going on with this build, I can't remember do you have an intercooler? The reason for asking is there are 2 styles of HX30W compressor housings. One has the V band connection and the other a slip connection like the H1C. One other possible concern is the turbo will be about 1.5" longer on the back side so that move the exhaust pipe. Connection to the turbo is the same type as the H1C but the waste gate housing is longer. May need to rework the exhaust. The HX30W has the same T3 manifold flange and same oil line connections as your H1C. There is a Super HX30W that some of the guys use but it's a bit different. Has a larger 4" air inlet vs 3", uses HX35W size compressor outlet, and a different oil connection. HX30W comes in 4 sizes of inducer, 40mm, 42mm, 44mm, and the 46mm Super. All come with a 6cc turbine housing except the 42mm which was 12cc. You don't want that one unless you change to the 6cc housing. Most guys use the 44mm or 46mm because they are easier to find and very inexpensive unless you want to run down to Cummins and pay about $2000 for one. LOL.
 

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Smoothoperator, the BW 171270 is just a replacement model designed like the OEM small H1C found on the Cummins 4bt. Not much to be gained from that one. Still has that large non gated turbine housing.
 

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Smoothoperator, the BW 171270 is just a replacement model designed like the OEM small H1C found on the Cummins 4bt. Not much to be gained from that one. Still has that large non gated turbine housing.
I went from h1c to the 171270 and seems to spool much quicker than my old h1c. Some information in this thread- dougal did some calculations in there if I recall correctly.


I was in the same boat and had a hx30w ordered but it required too much re-work so ended up going with the 171270-pretty pleased with the upgrade as well as the new price from an authorized dealer. I didn't have much clearance for the wastegate (outside reworking my downpipe and doing some pretty extensive modifications) so I went with the 171270 which bolted right in (after clocking the housing).
 

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Thanks for the turbo suggestions I'll look closer at them. It has to be a direct bolt in as I am not willing to change the exhaust piping in any way. it would be a major PITB to do, and not very easy to do a neat job on. This H1C is not a real Hot Rod Blower. I have seen 11-12 psi at full throttle going up a hill at 2100 rpms and that's it.

If I get some money in later this year I'll probably do the gear change first..

Finally cooled down here, woke up to Pea Soup Fog this morning and 70F and 3080% Humidity!

Gotta love "Monsoonal Moisture!".

Randy
 
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