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Discussion Starter · #1,241 ·
Actually my Bro in Law just got back from Las Vegas and the big Thermometer in Baker which is at the bottom of Death Valley was at 123 F !!! That is car killer hot!

Randy

On another note I had a Radiator failure last week. The Inlet Nipple which was moved from the left side to the right side developed a crack around the base and then a leak. The guy who made it originally got burned out so he couldn't do it. After talking to several guys who couldn't even understand what I was asking. I asked one of my Mechanic Buddies and he referred me to a shop in Oxnard, Been around for 50 years!

I dropped the radiator off at 3:45 PM on Friday before Labor Day last week. They called me a 5:30 OM and it was done! I picked it up the next morning and put it back in. It was much easier to re-install than it was to get out in the first place.

They built up a fillet of solder around the base of the nipple so it won't crack again. Excellent work! It all took place because I showed them pics of the Jeep (owner has one) and spent some time getting to know them. They were cool and I was happy as a clam.

It's back together now and working fine. Still can't figure why the Temp Gauge just randomly quits and when I cycle the ignition it comes right back on? I've checked all connections and everything is good? Obviously something isn't good but I'll figure it out eventually.

My EGT Gauge is also Perfectly useless as when it is reading the numbers don't make any sense.

I have found that if I run this engine a little harder (in it's current state of tune you can't really run it that hard) it likes it better. Eventually I'll need to change out the Turbo to one that will bolt up to the existing Piping and spool up faster. IN an earlier post you suggested one that will work for me. I'll have to go back and find it.

Randy
 

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If you have the OEM H1C then the logical turbo would be an HX30W. Randy, been so much going on with this build, I can't remember do you have an intercooler? The reason for asking is there are 2 styles of HX30W compressor housings. One has the V band connection and the other a slip connection like the H1C. One other possible concern is the turbo will be about 1.5" longer on the back side so that move the exhaust pipe. Connection to the turbo is the same type as the H1C but the waste gate housing is longer. May need to rework the exhaust. The HX30W has the same T3 manifold flange and same oil line connections as your H1C. There is a Super HX30W that some of the guys use but it's a bit different. Has a larger 4" air inlet vs 3", uses HX35W size compressor outlet, and a different oil connection. HX30W comes in 4 sizes of inducer, 40mm, 42mm, 44mm, and the 46mm Super. All come with a 6cc turbine housing except the 42mm which was 12cc. You don't want that one unless you change to the 6cc housing. Most guys use the 44mm or 46mm because they are easier to find and very inexpensive unless you want to run down to Cummins and pay about $2000 for one. LOL.
 

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Smoothoperator, the BW 171270 is just a replacement model designed like the OEM small H1C found on the Cummins 4bt. Not much to be gained from that one. Still has that large non gated turbine housing.
 

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Smoothoperator, the BW 171270 is just a replacement model designed like the OEM small H1C found on the Cummins 4bt. Not much to be gained from that one. Still has that large non gated turbine housing.
I went from h1c to the 171270 and seems to spool much quicker than my old h1c. Some information in this thread- dougal did some calculations in there if I recall correctly.


I was in the same boat and had a hx30w ordered but it required too much re-work so ended up going with the 171270-pretty pleased with the upgrade as well as the new price from an authorized dealer. I didn't have much clearance for the wastegate (outside reworking my downpipe and doing some pretty extensive modifications) so I went with the 171270 which bolted right in (after clocking the housing).
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,247 ·
Thanks for the turbo suggestions I'll look closer at them. It has to be a direct bolt in as I am not willing to change the exhaust piping in any way. it would be a major PITB to do, and not very easy to do a neat job on. This H1C is not a real Hot Rod Blower. I have seen 11-12 psi at full throttle going up a hill at 2100 rpms and that's it.

If I get some money in later this year I'll probably do the gear change first..

Finally cooled down here, woke up to Pea Soup Fog this morning and 70F and 3080% Humidity!

Gotta love "Monsoonal Moisture!".

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,248 ·
Been working on the Rear Bumper for the last week or so. Just about got all the parts made and then I can Glue it together when it cools off a little more.

Got the main tube nearly ready to Weld Out, just have to make the cuts in the ends for the Tapered Ends. Still have to figure out the Trailer Hitch Receiver and do it. It gets welded into the bumper.

The Tire Carrier Vertical section is coming off the Yellow Jeep as it has no need for an 8 bolt adapter so all that has to happen on it is the Horizontal portion with the Pivot. I also have to figure out a latch for it.

A few other fine points to add Then the front and back can go to Powder Coat if they are still open.

Lots of places closing down out here.

RAndy
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Discussion Starter · #1,249 · (Edited)
OK just so you know I haven't forgotten about you, here's some updates!

First; I am about 1/2 done with the Rear Bumper/ Tire Carrier and will have it done by New Years. I will also have to lengthen the Shackles on the rear Springs to pick up a little more ride height so the Jeep sits level and I get a little more up travel in the back.

I made a futile attempt at Weather Stripping the doors with Dynamat which looked like ship. Have to revisit that soon as the little bit I did get done made a substantial impact on the interior noise.

I have been driving the Jeep on longer and longer trips. I have a friend who is the West Coast Marine Cummins Dealer. I showed him the Jeep the other day and he was impressed, and told me that I can run that engine as hard as I want in that application and never wear it out or hurt it in any way.

I also asked him about Vibration and he told me to make a Ring to bolt to the front of my existing Vibro Damper to increase it's weight which should cut down on the vibration some more. All his Marine engines have massive flywheels on them so they run pretty smooth. I saw and listened to a running 150 Hp 4BTA in a boat and it was tamed down really well. I guess 75 lbs hanging off the back makes a Big Difference? Duh. So I've got a ring on the drawing board and will get that in the mix as soon as I get the bumpers done painted and on the Jeep.

Now for a driving update. The Jeep has 2317 miles on it and it runs down the freeway just fine at 65-70 mph 21-2200 rpms same numbers as my Truck. Last fill up was 18.2 Mpg, which is a little less than I'd like but not the end of the world.
The Tranny is slow to shift when cold and it takes a good half hour to get the whole thing up to Operating Temp. In order to get it to shift into 3rd gear when cold you have to hold it in 2nd until the revs are up around 2200 and then manually shift it. When completely warmed up it shifts normally, but I have found that if you drive it harder the whole machine performs much better. I have been running the OD in Direct around town as it is easier to drive at lower speeds in Direct, also much faster out of the hole.

It keeps up with traffic easily but on the freeway you are in the slow lane because the Freeways out here are running 75-80 mph all the time now. I have a 50 mile loop I've done a few times from Ojai to Ventura to Carpinteria and back home, and the Jeep is comfortable on winding roads and on the Freeway. It is a comfortable vehicle to ride in however it is still a little loud inside. The Weather Stripping on the doors will help with that, but I may have to add some more Dynamat to the interior to knock down the noise some more.

After these projects are done I go onto hooking up the Cruise Control and Radios and other ancillary stuff.

Probably do some driving videos before then,,, so stay tuned.

Here's some pics. Randy
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Discussion Starter · #1,251 ·
Russ: thanks for the idea. I have experienced the smell of Chinese Rubber and I can't figure out why they can't make rubber like we do? After all they steal just about every bit of technology they can get away with from us anyway. I wonder if they are used to the smell?

I have a butt pad for an AR the I got several years ago. It is made from that same material. After it stunk up my room and my Wife yelled at me for bringing it into the house, it got relegated to the garage where it keeps the bugs out. The smell never completely goes away,,, You just get used to it, but they do have a 3x4 mat I could cut to fit for $26. That area already has a layer of Dynamat and a piece of carpet on it. Maybe I could seal the smell in with another layer of Dynamat over the top of the Rubber Mat?

I have a two drawer insert designed for that area that will fill the whole area up to the top of the Wheel Wells. It will soak up more of the sound so we'll try that first. It is also going to be where all the guns live, as well as my "Recovery Gear."

Randy
 
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Best approach for noise is seal up all those holes and gaps then have three layers.

First layer is the barrier. This is your door skin, firewall etch. It needs a deadener on it to stop it buzzing and ringing. Dynamat does that.
Then you need an insulating layer in the middle. EVA foam is really good here.
Then a heavy layer on top. Carpet is good, heavy vinyl or rubber even better.

I did all that on my old work car (but used roof flashing tape instead of dynamat) and it went from tinny and buzzing to being able to hear rain on the windscreen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,253 ·
Dougal: I have some Dynamat Foam like I used on the underside of my Hood. I was looking at that for the firewall area as it already has Regular Asphalt Dynamat on it with carpet sitting on top.

AS you know these Engines are Mechanical Noise Machines, add to that the Vibration which shakes everything pretty good and a Fiberglass body which acts like a sound box, and I've got some work to get it livable. I can stand it because I am getting used to it. but nobody else would tolerate it for very long.

Everything I do to it makes it better so lets just hope I can achieve Nirvana before I die.

Merry Christmas to everyone !

Randy
 

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Dougal: I have some Dynamat Foam like I used on the underside of my Hood. I was looking at that for the firewall area as it already has Regular Asphalt Dynamat on it with carpet sitting on top.

AS you know these Engines are Mechanical Noise Machines, add to that the Vibration which shakes everything pretty good and a Fiberglass body which acts like a sound box, and I've got some work to get it livable. I can stand it because I am getting used to it. but nobody else would tolerate it for very long.

Everything I do to it makes it better so lets just hope I can achieve Nirvana before I die.

Merry Christmas to everyone !

Randy
Sound deadening is a deadly hobby. Because there is no end. You can always make it better.

Merry Christmas Randy. It's Christmas here already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,255 ·
Sound deadening is a deadly hobby. Because there is no end. You can always make it better.

Merry Christmas Randy. It's Christmas here already.
Sir: Enjoy your day!

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,256 ·
I have been working on the rear bumper/tire carrier for the last few weeks. The bumper part is done but the tire carrier turned out to be way more complicated than I had originally thought.

I had something happen during machining of the Pivot that I had never seen before. I drilled 1/2" Pilot holes for both ends and they met perfectly in the center. I couldn't fit it all in my lathe so I had to run the 1" drill on my Milling Machine.

I aligned everything perfectly and then started drilling the hole to 1". Took a while to get all the way thru and I had to go at it several times to get all the way thru.

Then I took it out of teh vise and the hole was 14/4" off center on teh back side and the drill had gone thru the whole 4 1/2" long piece at an angle. IE: the drill didn't follow the Pilot Hole!!!!! I have never seen this before in 40 years in the machine shop. It is always a given that the Drill will follow the Pilot Hole, and that's why we drill Pilot holes!!!,,, in the first place. Not this time and the piece was scrapped. It took me a week to even find it after I launched it across the shop. teh 1" drill also drilled a dead on 1.000 hole too boot!

I found a piece fo 2" DOM tubing with a 1.5" hole in it and made Delrin Bushings for it and that's what I'm using for the Pivot Block. It runs on a 1" dia 303 SS rod for the Spindle..

I am making a 2x1" Split Collar for it to hold it all together. Nothing I could buy was 1" on the ID and 2" on the OD so I have to make one.

One thing I was trying to avoid was Weight. I wanted to use the vertical piece off the Tire Carrier on the Yellow Jeep but after I got it off the old Jeep it weighed 30+ pounds. So it is going back on the Yellow Jeep. The actual part that the wheel bolts to also weighs a ton so it will get slimmed down considerably.

The Spare Tire weighs about 125 lbs. The complete bumper will be another 125 ish so I'm looking at 250 more lbs hung on the rear of the Jeep, which means and upcoming adjustment to the ride height in the rear.

On a more positive note: I have been driving the vehicle alot more and learning how to drive it better. I have been using Direct n teh OD more for driving around town where the top speeds with be less than 50 mph. and then OD for freeways. It runs down the Freeways well, buzzing along at 2100-2200 rpms (65-70 MPH)

My last fill up yielded 18.5 MPG for 400+ miles of combined city and freeway driving. That was 21 gallons. 36 gallons should yield 685 miles. and if I can get 20 MPG on a long Freeway run then I'm looking at 720 miles on a tank.

The project is coming along.

Randy
 

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Randy, the 1" drill bit must have been one designed to drill around corners. LOL. Getting your fuel mileage up may take something you can't do with your current setup. On a 4bt, once you pass 2000 RPM the torque and fuel mileage take a dive. That's the reason most try to work the gearing so they run around 1800 RPM. Peak torque on the engine hits in the 1700-1800 RPM area and that's where the best fuel mileage happens. If you had the RPM's down in that range you might pick up near 5 MPG. Injection pump timing can also affect mileage. Might try a slight advance if you haven't already done so. Can't advance too much or you'll pop the head gasket.Your transmission probably isn't helping that situation either. Also, that H1C turbo is a problem. Its boost comes on slow and peaks out early. No matter how much you turn up the fuel on the injection pump it won't help much. It just wasn't designed as a performance turbo. Worked OK in the 105-120 HP range but runs out of steam after that. Without some change to the exhaust plumbing I see no way you could fit an HX30W. It's about 1.5" longer. Even if you changed exhaust manifolds you'd need an adapter to connect to your current exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,258 ·
Yeah, any drastic changes to the over all set up are down the road a ways. It runs and drives and that will have to do for the time being. I have to concentrate on finishing the build part of the Project. Then I can move on to performance issues.

Changing the gearing is kind of a big deal $ wise so that ain't gonna happen any time soon, as like the rest of you, we are broke, and our new President (asshole) probably won't be rectifying that any time soon.

In case any of you haven't figured it out yet, I'm not a big fan of what happened on Nov 5 or afterwards. What we ended up with due to the "Fix being in," will probably affect our hobby negatively, as well as my other hobbies like shooting sports. Just think how much fun it will be to convert all our projects to Electric Motors. Then we can talk about performance batteries and capacitors and crap like that.

Life goes on.

Randy
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,259 · (Edited)
Just about there on the rear bumper/tire carrier. a few little things to finish up and then paint it. I still have to finish weld the upright and install the Fish Plate over the joint so it doesn't crack. and I have to finish fitting the Trailer Hitch, and the rotation stop so the tire doesn't take out the Tail Light. Then the whole mess gets painted Hammertone Gray.

I had the tire mounted on it last Saturday and it looks good. However the extra 250 lbs does lower the rear end excessively, to the point where I will have to extend the rear shackles 2 1/2" to get the ride height level. I had the rear lifted with the crane up to where it was level and the car looks right. I am cogitating on a small air bag helper for each side and just about have it figured out and that will allow me to adjust the ride height when the car is loaded. Right now I only have @1" to the bump stop and I want more like 2.5-3".

I recycled the upright and the tire mount from the Yellow Jeep which weighed a ton so I cut out the big windows in the sides which lightened it up a little. I guess I wasn't that concerned about weight on the little Jeep when I built it, but it was just stupid heavy so I had to do something to lighten it up and it looks cooler as well..

The De Staco Clamp will get a locking key to unsure that it doesn't vibrate open.

When latched up this thing is solid !!!

Here's some pics Randy
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Discussion Starter · #1,260 · (Edited)
I've got one more thing to weld on this Bumper/Tire Carrier. It needs a Diamond Shaped Fish Plate at the junction of the vertical up right and the horizontal base. Even though this is all Heli-Arc'd together, with a 125 lb. tire hanging off it, Road Vibration would eventually get to it and crack the welds.

I haven't had the energy to work on it lately as the Oak Trees are pollenating the area and my Allergies are driving me nutz. Once this is done I can paint it and be done with it.

I already have the new longer shackles made and ready to install. They are 2 1/2" longer than existing which will get the ride height back up to level. Then I've got some Air Bag Mounts figured out so I can adjust the ride height at will to compensate for load.

After all the pollen is blown away, or better yet, washed away by some rain, I'll feel better.
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