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Discussion Starter · #1,261 ·
The Bumper/Tire Carrier is done and painted and the bumper itself is installed. Tried to change the Shackles but ran into a manpower issue, I couldn't raise the Rear of the Jeep up high enough to take the load off the springs and then when I did get it up high enough to get the bottom bolt out, my Chain Falls didn't have enough strength to lift the rear any higher.
I am installing Shackles that are 2 1/2" longer to get the Jeep to sit level.
So we are going to do that on a Car Rack on Tues next with 2 nice strong young men to help.

Here's pics,,, The Rustoleum Hammer Gary Paint (#7214) came out real nice and it is super easy to do, and dries fast. You need to get one of the Spray Can Pistol Grip Handles as it makes controlling the spray pattern much easier. Almost like using a real Spray Gun.
Randy View attachment 130831 View attachment 130832 View attachment 130833 View attachment 130834 View attachment 130835

I'll put a pic up with the tire installed as soon as I get the shackles changed out.

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,262 · (Edited)
Here's the pic of the Tire Mounted, and some others as well.

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I thought I was completely done with this project but I found one minor Boo Boo.

I can't get the tail gate open!

It appears that I placed the swing stop in the wrong place and I am hoping I can just cut it down a little and get enough clearance to get the tail gate open.... Fingers Crossed on that because the farther the mount swings out the closer the tire gets to the Plastic Tail Light, which won't live thru being hit with a 150 lb. tire.

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Anyone who thinks this has been a easy project needs Counseling. And the deeper I get, the more "interference issues" arise.

On the positive side you can see the Jeep now sits level. So the shackles solved that problem. However it is going to need the Airbags for Spring Helpers.

I've got to weigh it soon and will post the results of that.

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Randy
 
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I wonder how in the heck do you change a 150 lb tire. Do you have a wench to raise and lower that tire to the ground? I remember seeing a special Ford off road truck whose tires weighed even more than those and they had a wench for that purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,264 · (Edited)
1. AAA Roadside Service.
2. Big Strong Friends.
3. Crane in Shop.
4. Don't get flats.

Getting it off the mount is not that hard. Putting it back on the mount requires anti gravity devices like listed above.
 
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Maybe you could redesign your mount with a fancy hydraulic arm to raise and lower the tire. You other options sound good too. In all my years of driving 4x4 trucks I've only had 1 flat tire and it occurred in a McDonalds parking lot. AAA was my answer although I do have a crane in the back of the truck should I need it. My tires are only about 80-90 lbs. but not something this body wants to lift. When I bought my truck I opted to have the spare in the bed instead of underneath the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,267 ·
The tire carrier pivots on a piece of 1" 303 SS rod welded into the bumper. The Bearing Housing on the pivoting arm is 2" .250 wall tube I had around the shop and then there are two Delrin Step Bushings in the housing for the arm to pivot on.

I looked at trailer spindles but felt the going price of $35-40 each for something that wasn't exactly what I wanted was too much so I scrounged around the shop and came up with this. It pivots nice and smooth and I'll never have to worry about rust or needing lubrication on it.

The Arm is also supported on the other end so there isn't any downward loads on the pivot, and it is all held in place by a large Destaco Clamp.

The whole thing is quite Solid.

Randy



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Discussion Starter · #1,268 ·
Bo Boo fixed! was very labor intensive.

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It was interesting to figure out how to support the bumper which weighs 60-70 lbs while I cut that notch out on my little bandsaw. Lots of grinding followed and I still have to spray some paint on it so it doesn't rust.

The tire stops right at the taillight jsut barely touching and I have to push just a little bit to get the tailgate past it but it is not a problem, so that will be good enough!

The Jeep looks exactly like I had envisioned at the start so that's a good thing.

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Happiness to follow, off to the Post Office to drop off packages.

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,269 ·
So that is all done.
I weighed the Jeep today at the local Truck Scales. I had figured it was around 4,500 lbs.

Actual weight,,, 4680 lbs.

That worked out to 2120 lbs. on the Front Wheels and 2560 lbs. on the Back Wheels.

A few more pounds to add to the overall weight like the Drawer System in Cargo Area, and Possible Winch on the front bumper and a few other small things, but it shouldn't break 5,000 lbs when complete. Pretty happy about that.

This thing is quite happy on the freeways at 65-70 MPH showing 2100-2200 rpms. Looking at around 19MPG at that speed on a long trip, maybe a little more once the Cruise Control is hooked up which stabilizes the throttle movement a little more than just using your foot.

That's all for now.

Randy
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,271 ·
5 gal into it

Randy
 

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your patience/timeline/attention to detail is very impressive to me. slowing down and not putting a false rush on everything is one of my largest downfalls...project wise. id have a hard time getting anything done and just sit and stare if that was my creation that came to life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,273 · (Edited)
Yeah, but your project wouldn't have taken 16+ years to get this far either. And believe me I've spent plenty of time staring at it. Not all of the solutions to the problems encountered building this thing just jumped out at me. Some took some serious Cogitation.

That Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier is a good example, it took me a good long while to figure it out to where it works, is solid, and opens all the way so I can get into the back of the Jeep. That Tire is not light and it can't be flopping around or else it will tear the rear of the frame apart. Believe me it is SOLID!!!

But that part about opening all the way, well I had to make a Course Correction on that part last week. go up to Post #1268 so all is well.

I got something from my Friends at CAL 4 Wheel today.

It pretty much says what my feelings on this subject are.

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Discussion Starter · #1,275 ·
OK: Instead of working on the Jeep I have been driving it. It has become my "Shooting Brake" used when going Skeet Shooting at our Range in upper Ojai which I have been doing alot lately. It has been well received and I get lots of respect for the Jeep which is good, cuz I damn sure don't get it for my shooting,,,, Yet!.

I did change the Engine Oil Recently which was a serious Mess.

I have Several projects in Que.

Extra Weight Ring for Vibro Damper.
Air Bags for Rear Axle
Weather Stripping for doors
Hook up Cruise Control

Vibro Damper: I have a 1" thick ring of steel designed to bolt to the front face of the Damper. it should add about 10-12 Lbs to the Damper which should tame down the vibration a little more. It will be around 22-24 lbs overall when done.

Air Bags: I have mounts for two small Air Bags designed that mount just outside the rear Springs and right behind the bump stops. These will give me a little more Roll Stability and allow me to compensate for loads in the Jeep.

I am totally befuddled on the Weather Stripping on the doors. Nothing I've done so far has worked very well, and it is mandatory that the doors are sealed as they are a major source of Cabin Noise and obviously not going to be OK when it rains. No ready made Door Weather stripping will work as the doors don't fit the holes they go into like stock doors would.. I am open to suggestions ?

Cruise Control is a bolt up as I've already had it installed. Just have to hook the Drive Cable to the IP and it's ready to try. I can only hope it works as the instructions are Pure Ship !

I am about to start Video Recording the Jeep's Trips. I have a Wind Shield Mount for my Go Pro and just have to figure out how to use it. I tried in the past but the instructions were useless and the company was no help whatsoever. Luckily now we have Youtube How to Video's on everything known to man so I will start there and work up to where I want to be.

There are other smaller projects like hooking up the Rock Lights and Aux Driving Lights but those are easy little projects for a week night. The whole Descrambler Project has been a little long winded and has kept me busy for the last 16 years and if I can conquer all the annoying issues like Vibration and Noise that detract from the overall "Vibe," I will not only get what I "thought" I wanted,,, but actually get what I actually wanted, when I started designing this monstrosity on the Drive Home from Moab in 2001.
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Randy
 

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> "Cruise Control is a bolt up as I've already had it installed. Just have to hook the Drive Cable to the IP and it's ready to try. I can only hope it works as the instructions are Pure Ship !"
I've installed several Rostra "universal" cruise controls - The learning curve has some DEEP potholes...

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This is the Bosch VE in the F150. Bracket came on the Bosch VE pump (1986 Ford E350 bread truck). Accelerator cable is for a 300 CID 6 cylinder in a 1986 Ford F150.

Bracket for the cruise control cable fabricated (cobbled) from the scrap pile and bolted to existing holes in the VE pump bracket.

Fuel shutoff cable (Tractor Supply STOP cable) uses a zip tie that has a screw hole in it's head (the hole is slightly smaller than the sheath of the stop cable).

If you have a Rostra universal cruise control (# 250-1223 or similar) - setting the 12 DIP switches is "interesting" (as defined by the phrase "May you live in interesting times..."). Involves good lighting, bi-focals (or magnifying glass), a small screwdriver for flipping the microscopically small DIP switches. AND maybe one shoe off so you can keep track of 12 settings...

I have successfully installed these units in several trucks over the years. Some had analog speed sensors and some had digital sensors (DIP switch # 10). And made a few mistakes along the line.. I can talk you through the tricky parts.

Russ
 
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Great to see it in daily use Randy. This has been an epic build to follow.

For your weather striping. If you can't get an conventional seal in there, could you possibly glue EVA foam strips or something on the doors or in the jambs to create a seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,279 ·
Great to see it in daily use Randy. This has been an epic build to follow.

For your weather striping. If you can't get an conventional seal in there, could you possibly glue EVA foam strips or something on the doors or in the jambs to create a seal?
Dougal: Sorry for the late reply, what I've done so far with the Weather Stripping is similar to what you suggested only using Dynamat Foam Liner with Adhesive on one side. I just have to get back after it. it works OK but I quit on it because I thought I had a guy who was going to do something a bit nicer. Then he Declined, so the ball is back in my court..

I need to get back on the Vibration Damper Project. It should make the most noticeable difference in the cabin environment. What I'm going to do is make a steel ring out of 1" plate to bolt to the front of the existing damper. It should add another 10-12 lbs to the thing and tame the vibration down some more. Surprisingly the Vibration is lessening slightly just from driving the car. I think the Engine/Tranny Mounts are "Breaking in" and the place where one Exhaust Hanger is touching the body is wearing thru in that place so there isn't as much transmission of the vibration and associated noise..

The Jeep has been currently tasked as my "Shooting Brake" as I have been driving it up to my shooting range once or twice a week for skeet shooting and some rifle shooting. The trip is about 15 miles uphill and it does just fine then coming back down it is coasting with no load most of the way and so the engine doesn't vibrate as much.

It is averaging 18-19 MPG, but I don't let it get too deep into the tank as at $4.00 per gallon it gets kind of painful when you see a $100 bill to fill it up when you thought you were only Half way into the tank. best to refill more often. I always refuel all our cars the day before any big weekend anyway.

The Tire Carrier is working perfectly and is relatively easy to open and close, so that was a win.

So time to figure out some more of the small stuff that I can do while it is INSANE HOT here! Happens every year!

Randy
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,280 · (Edited)
Haven't done much on the project list but I have been driving it more. It has been 60 miles one way from home on it's farthest trip. The engine is quite happy running down the road at 21-2200 RPM's although Fuel Mileage is not what I'd like to see. Only cure for that is a gearing change, and that is down the road after all the little projects are done.

The thing is getting better on it's own just by driving it, and I attribute that to all the mounts wearing in, and the drive train wearing in. It has got @ 4200 miles on it now.

During this Christmas season I'm looking at doing the Air Bags in the back which will take some of the roll out of the car. That will enhance it's off road manners as well as it is more top heavy than I like. Also looking at a sway bar in the front which I had originally planned in as well.

Weather Stripping will make a big difference in the interior noise. Most all the interior noise comes from the doors and windows rattling around and rubbing on things. Shutting that down will have a big effect on the creature comfort of this vehicle. My Bro in Law gave me some Heavy Rubber Floor Mats that came from his Grand Checkeree and they helped alot.

Anyway, the project is moving forward.

Automotive parking light Tire Automotive side marker light Wheel Window


This is as far off road as it has gotten so far. But not too worried about it working there.

Automotive parking light Tire Land vehicle Wheel Vehicle

Randy
 
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