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A 68.5-inch belt fits the with the F800 routing (keep in mind my 1995 Ram fan drive is closer to the crank than the fan drive on an F800). I'm going to look into rotating the tensioner 90 degrees counter-clockwise, so it points straight up (As in the Dodge setup,) to get more belt on the A/C compressor.
 

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I'll have to try that routing jtamulonis, it sounds promising. What upper water neck are you using?
I`m using the `99 stock water neck. everything clears .
 

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Any chance you have a photo?
I`ll see if I can send a pic that I just took. if you`re using a 12v cummins, you may have to use the straight up thermostat housing like rube stated above, but with this belt routing you`ll not have any belt slippin`. cummins changed the thermostat housing on the 24v engines. that`s why I have no belt clearance problems. check post #20 for the belt number.
 

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3921382 Belt tensioner bracket-----------------------42.47


I'm sorry to be revisiting this thread so sporadically, but I figured I'd get caught up today...




Are we sure the 3921382 part number correct? I bought a water inlet that has this part number on it. It's the water inlet that has a 3-bolt flange, and points downward, a little more than 90 degrees. Both the Cummins sticker and laser etched number on this part say "3921382".
 

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3921382 Belt tensioner bracket-----------------------42.47


I'm sorry to be revisiting this thread so sporadically, but I figured I'd get caught up today...




Are we sure the 3921382 part number correct? I bought a water inlet that has this part number on it. It's the water inlet that has a 3-bolt flange, and points downward, a little more than 90 degrees. Both the Cummins sticker and laser etched number on this part say "3921382".

3921382 is the lower water neck with 90* downward turn.

The belt tensioner bracket is. 3930838. I used a stock dodge belt tensioner from orilleys. Line code GAT part number 38517. It was $96.49


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Here are a couple pics of how I did my belt setup. I am using a straight out lower inlet and a straight up upper outlet for the radiator hoses. I built my own mounts and tried to get my motor as low as possible. My lower radiator nipple sits about 1 and a half inches above the frame and my motor is back as far as I could push it to the firewall. My motor/trans is offset toward the passenger side of the frame about 1 inch to help with clearance of the truck air compressor/power steering setup that mine has.
 

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Here are a couple pics of how I did my belt setup. I am using a straight out lower inlet and a straight up upper outlet for the radiator hoses. I built my own mounts and tried to get my motor as low as possible. My lower radiator nipple sits about 1 and a half inches above the frame and my motor is back as far as I could push it to the firewall. My motor/trans is offset toward the passenger side of the frame about 1 inch to help with clearance of the truck air compressor/power steering setup that mine has.
What did you use for your "smooth" idler pulley, between the compressor and alternator (application, p/n ?)
 

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That looks nice. Does that require a remote oil filter? Doesn't look like you can fit a vertical there and clear the inlet of the low mount turbo.
 

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The smooth pulley started out as a ribbed one that was on the bus motor and my machinist friend turned it down smooth for me. It was in place of the ac compressor pulley. The tightener was under where the ac compressor now sits and I couldnt see it fitting there given its location to the chevy frame. Dont have a part number but it is off of a 93 ford chassis front engine school bus. I found a really good thread on another forum where a guy built cummins powered 72 suburban and I copied how he did his belt setup. Here is a pic of his.
I am going to do a remote mount oil filter setup. The stock bus intake uses a big rubber molded hose to snake past the oil filter and stands up vertical and the air filter canister sits on the top of it. If I could utilize it I might but I think its too big to fit in the spot it needs to.
 

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