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Home Made Injector Removal Tool

23K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  Brodiesel 
#1 · (Edited)
Easy to assemble with no welding required. Made from threaded rod (M12 x 1.5mm pitch) with matching lug nuts, jam nut, a 3/8 inch flat washer and a 1" x 4" threaded conduit nipple. With the exception of the threaded rod which came from McMaster Carr (catalog number 98861A545) all the items were locally available. The threaded rod comes in the 300 mm length which is about 12 inches. I used the longer shoulder style lug nuts because of their longer length.

The first picture shows the components assembled. The second photo shows how the end of the rod threads onto the injector. Of course this is without the conduit nipple as a spacer in place. I ran them down finger tight and then backed off a half turn to prevent the possibility of damaging the tip of the injector.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
The next picture shows the conduit nipple in place below the 3/8 inch flat washer. The last picture shows the puller ready to use. You hold the wrench on the right side of the picture firmly to prevent it from turning while you turn the wrench on the left side of the picture to remove the injector. They come out with very little effort required.
 

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#3 ·
Bob S.
I made mine from a piece of wire rope (cable) welded to a injector line nut from an old injector line. Made a similar, to yours, slide hammer arangement. Works like you said, with little effort. An injector shop that I deal with turned me on to the idea. Theirs has a nut from an early injector on one end, and one from a later injector on the other end. They loan it to people that buy injectors from them.
Bob B.
 
#4 ·
Unless I am confused, the pictured injector puller is just that, a puller.

I also understand the slide hammer idea,

Are you two talking about different methods of doing the same thing?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Are you two talking about different methods of doing the same thing?
Yes. The slide hammer uses the weight of the hammer to pound them out.
My method uses the threaded rod as a jack screw to lift them out. Either method works with the engine out of the vehicle. You can shorten the overall length of the jack screw puller by using shorter attaching nuts and a slightly shorter nipple along with a shorter threaded rod. This permits easier access around tight firewall obstructions when the engine is installed.
 
#7 ·
I guess that would work if they're really hung up huh? when I changed them in my truck I used a nut on the top of the injector, and a prybar to ease them out. worked great, surprisingly, since my engine was from Jersey.
 
#8 ·
mine had leaking rocker cover gaskets for a while. there was engine oil around all of them. i reckon a prybar would have probably removed mine too. it was pretty easy to make a tool out of stuff that was just laying around.
 
#9 ·
Huh! When I took the injectors out of my 30 year old Deutz I tried a three pound hammer and couldn't budge them. Had to get a five pounder and it took about 15 whacks on each one. Crazy. There was a lot of stuff in the hole almost like old epoxy. The tips have flats on them for the rebuilder's wrench and you could see a perfect imprint about 5/8 inch from the base where the copper sealer washer goes. I didn't see this and when I put the new rebuilds back in pushed junk from the bore down onto the seat. Learned not to get in a hurry and keep my eyes open. Just thought I'd add $.02. Nice job Bob.
 
#13 ·
VE and P pump injectors are different with P pump's being larger
 
#16 ·
Do you have a welder? Many lug nuts are m12 and a rod can be attached. Alternatively, a lug nut with a solid cap can be drilled and tapped to accommodate whatever all thread you may be able to find.
This was what I came up with using some all thread and a wrist pin as the hammer.


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