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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving down the road late at night and the engine seized. I wasn't able to turn it over, but came out the next day and was able to turn it over. I had it towed to my house after I did a quick walk around and found oil everywhere on the underside of the truck. It sounded like crap when I started it for a couple of seconds. The dipstick was absolutely empty and I noticed the turbo fins are hitting the side of the housing. I disconnected the intake pipe from the turbo and added oil. I didn't see any oil in the turbo's charge pipes. I started it for a second then I heard a clunk on startup, but it sounded OK. I shut it off quickly, but I noticed when I walked around that it dumped all the oil of the engine. It looks like it's coming from the oil filter/cooler side of the engine, but I can't see at this point. It's not coming from the oil intake on the turbo. I'm guessing the engine is toast even though it sounded OK on startup? I hate to dump money in a new hx30 if the engine is junk. I might just go find a 6bt and slap it in. 4bts are very hard to find around here. I hope you guys are having a better weekend than me!
 

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If it dumped the oil that quick and is around the filter it maybe a loose filter.
Bad news is the bearings are most probably toast if it ran long enough without oil to them.
Steve
 

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That bites... Why not tear it down and rebuild it? As long as you haven't sent a rod through the block I would think it is still rebuild-able. It still spins and starts...

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update:

it looks like my passenger side motor mount broke. The 1/4 thick metal fatigued and broke. I think it should have added more gussets. I was actually shocked and happy it wasn't my welds that failed. I don't know if I can post pictures. When the mount broke it slipped down and pinched two oil lines pretty bad. I'm guessing that one of those hoses is pushing all the oil out and also why the turbo is shot since it lost oil. I haven't seen any holes in the block so far. I'm going to try and fix the motor mount and oil leak once I find it. The first goal is to get it "yard" driving until I can come up with a long term solution. This was my daily driver, but I have a jeep wrangler as a backup.


Here are a couple of questions.

1. On the off chance that I do not find metal in the oil is it does that mean the bearings are OK? Basically even if I don't find metal should I expect my bearings to be shot?
2. If I do find metal, but there isn't a spun bearing. I know I have damage, but is it yard drivable? Is ok to drive around the yard for a very short distance to get into long term position for the rebuild/swap or will it pretty much just spin a bearing at any second? Right now I'm parked in the street because I live on a very steep and dangerous hill.
 

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Do not start it again. Plan on replacing all bearings, they are cheap. If the journals look OK, one can polish them carefully, if you haven't done that before, ask first! Replace all gaskets.

Ed in CO.
 

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Ouch. Don't want to run it. Plan on a complete tear down. Sounds like the seals went out on the turbo and sucked all the oil out of the pan. No telling what damages occurred until you tear into it. I suspect some cylinder or piston damage due to the lock up. Lucky it didn't send a rod thorough the block. Did you notice a big drop in oil pressure? There was an item found on the engines in delivery vans which was a dash mounted warning light for low oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ouch. Don't want to run it. Plan on a complete tear down. Sounds like the seals went out on the turbo and sucked all the oil out of the pan. No telling what damages occurred until you tear into it. I suspect some cylinder or piston damage due to the lock up. Lucky it didn't send a rod thorough the block. Did you notice a big drop in oil pressure? There was an item found on the engines in delivery vans which was a dash mounted warning light for low oil pressure.
I dont want to invest any more money into this 4bt because I think I will move to a 6bt because they are easier to find around here. It's in a 2008 Ford Super Duty Crew cab, long bed, dually so it's basically maxed out went I start towing. I think a 6bt would fit this truck better. I had to remove the cover to the oil cooler then I closed it off the oil pressure with an NPT stopper with RTV sealant because of the damaged threads. I added some cheap walmart oil since I don't want to waste real oil to flush out the engine. I disconnected the intake to the turbo then I started it up and it sounded perfect. Next, I will change the oil to see how much metal is in it. If there are metal chunks then I'm going to leave it alone until I can find a 6bt. If I don't have any metal chunks then I'll put the original h1c turbo on it then let it idle for a while to see if it's going to start knocking. "I'm just going to send it" until it blows or starts knocking. I don't want to invest too much time into a junk engine. I still have to fix the motor mount that broke which is going to take a while. There is a storm outside so its just to sit for a few days.

I'm going to go ahead and purchase a 6bt truck/swap. I'll have it around so when the engine blows or winter comes around then I will complete the swap.

:ROFLMAO::LOL:Let's go ahead and put our bets on how long the seized engine will last
 

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That's no good. As soon as you lose oil pressure the turbo will start to chew itself up. Sometimes they can be rebuilt, sometimes not. Minimum I'd pull the head and oil pan to check bearings and bores.

It almost sounds to me like it got hot enough for the pistons to grab and they shrunk back on cooling. So bores could be okay or they could be scuffed.
 

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... There was an item found on the engines in delivery vans which was a dash mounted warning light for low oil pressure.
I use these Cole Hersee dual alarms in a couple of vehicles.

128241

Cole Hersee 4112- RC or sometimes listed as 4112-RC000

The RED light comes on real bright and the buzzer sounds like a pissed-off rattlesnake in a metal trash can - It DOES get your attention. On


One came out of the Wonder Bread truck, is now in my F150 conversion and is still working 34 years later. It is "self checking", as it buzzes until the oil pressure comes up.

The other was ordered from my local OReilly Auto. It is used as a parking brake warning on a 1962 Volvo.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
that's a really good idea. I bet I had one on the stepvan, but didn't know what it was and scrapped it.

Update---

I changed the oil/oil filter and ran it for 5-10 minutes and didn't notice any bad noises or more blowby than before. It might sound crazy, but I think I have less blowby than before. I put on the original baby h1c. I didn't drive it anywhere because I don't trust it yet. BUT I didnt have the turbo connected to the intake so that could be why there is less blowby. I'll change the oil again in the morning and put good oil and not the Walmart oil I used for testing today.
 

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Yeah, step vans often had the warning light/buzzer. The sensor was placed in the spare hole on the oil filter plate. If the big red light didn't get your attention the buzzer usually would. Step van drivers may not have paid much attention to gauges but warning signal usually caught their eye. I looked in Uptime's van parts catalog and they show warning sensors for both oil and temp on the 4bt engines. Oil is a part PS-12 and temp is part TEMP. The warning light and buzzer is part 4112-RC which is the same one Russ mentioned. That unit can handle multiple sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I changed the oil and found plenty of glitter, but I didnt see any big pieces of metal. I also found a crack/cut the oil pan where the motor mount broke leaking oil after I finally got everything back together. I used some jb weld /water weld on it. I doubt that hack fix will hold, but at least it will slow it down the oil dripping out. I don't want to invest any more time into this motor because I'm sure it's on its way out. The 4bt still drives good and sounds fine now that I fixed the motor mount and installed the original h1c turbo. I'm on the search for a 12v with a ve pump, but I will take a 12v p-pump which is more common around here. I'll track the milage and report on when the motor fails. I'll update this thread when it's dead or knocking.
 

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I would go run it real hard and watch hot idle oil psi. If it's notably lower than before you probably have some bearing wear.

IME, these engines will withstand incredible negligence and abuse without a bottom end issue. The turbo will lock up long before the engine bearings will be damaged.

I once was involved in troubleshooting a fresh rebuilt 5.9. It ran OK, but wasn't responding great to power mods. It was pretty smokey at higher fuel levels and not making the power it should for the mods applied to it. Hot oil pressure was also right at minimum spec, around 10 PSI at 800 iirc. It went to a few different shops for tuning before the engine builder gave in and paid for the engine to be pulled under warranty. Come to find out the engine builder installed a 10/10 crankshaft in standard bearing shells. That crank and bearings had a couple thousand miles on them. Both bearings and crank looked new, no damage at all. I remember that engine also had a murmor to it when idled down. If idle was set around 500 you could hear the rods clamoring when it was hot. Otherwise, you couldn't tell a thing was wrong with it.

I once bought a first gen dodge with high miles non-running. Sitting for awhile, the fuel rack/donut thing that controls the fuel in a VE had stuck to the shaft. When I fired it up that thing went full steam valve float scatter speed. I wasn't too concerned with a $500 truck so I let it run and was able to get the pump innards to unstick by cranking the full load screw all the way in and pulling the manual shutdown thus forcing the governor linkage to move the rack on the shaft. 150,000 miles later that same engine let the headgasket loose an hour from home. It drove back at freeway speed fine with no water in the block and temp gauge pegged. A rebuilt head and gasket and that same engine has another 200k miles on it in a different truck still going strong.

So again, my suggestion is to go run it hard up a steep hill or such and see what it has for oil pressure as hot as you can get it. if it still has 15-20 PSI I wouldn't pull it out unless you have to know it's perfect inside.
 
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