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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

New here to the forum and looking for some help on my 4B engine. This is not a swap of any kind but searching for some parts for my 4B engine. The engine is mounted in a Woodchuck chipper model WC17. It is a 1988 model and the place that used to sell parts for the machine no longer does not. The engine has a serial number 44274208 injector number 3909475 76 hp non turbo 4B 3.9. The engine runs great at this point with 2509 hrs. Here are a few questions for you all.

1. Where is a preferred place to but parts for the engine in particular? The engine runs great but I would like a good source for engine parts if I need them. I have tried to cross a few things at Napa but it will take some more work. The coolant temperature sending unit (or gauge) may be bad because it does not send the right temp to the gauge when I shoot the block with a infrared thermometer.

2. If this is the place for swaps, how do you all wire the engine to start with the vehicle? Currently there is a crazy system on this thing on how to start it. Turn the key, flip another switch, then push a button to start. Not sure if that is factory but it seems like a lot. Any advice on a more simple set up that you all of done as far as having the starting system all on one switch?

3. Is there any place to get a engine parts manual or service manual out there for my engine?

Thanks for any help
Sean
 

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1. Engine parts are purchased from Cummins, unfortunately it's a medium duty diesel and most auto parts stores will not have a listing. You can also get parts from a Case dealer, you will need to know the Case part number, which is just the Cummins number except the first 3 is replaced with a J.

2. Most of us wire the engine to the factory ignition switch. Ignition switches supply 12v in the run position and then momentary 12v when turned to the start position. All you need for a 4bt to run is, supply 12v to the fuel solenoid which is on the injection pump and crank it over. It is important that the solenoid is powered during cranking. Also, your alternator might need power to excite it into producing current.

3. Yes, since you have an engine serial number a parts book and service manual might be available directly online. Navigate to Quickserve.cummins.com and create a free account. Once created you can enter the ESN and you'll have access to all the information pertaining to your engine that Cummins has on file.
 

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If you know your engine serial # (ESN), you can obtain engine parts from Cummins. There is a system on line called Quick Serve. Set up a basic account and you can see every single part in the engine as originally manufactured. Another possible would be Coleman Equipment Inc who is a Case industrial dealer. Many of their units had the Cummins engine. If you have a Cummins part the begins with a "3", change that number to the letter "J" and you have the Case part # if it exists. For a service manual, Cummins could probably help you there. As for your starting system, that could just be specific to the equipment. Starting these engines basically requires 2 wires. A 12 volt line is powered up and then the starter switch energized. Your unit sounds like it has lock out system. The key unlocks the power, the toggle switch powers the solenoid on the injection pump, and the push button energizes the starter solenoid. This is just a guess, mind you. Would need to see an actual wiring diagram for you unit to know for sure. I just did a quick search on Quick Serve and your engine does show up. Specialty parts like sensors for gauges may not be in the Cummins catalog as they were added by the end user. You might have to look for a part # on the actual senor if there is one. The part # you give for the injectors 3909475 is not what Cummins shows. They show 3919331 which is serviced as 3802338 or 3802338 RX. RX is a rebuilt unit. Your injectors were probably 9mm tips with they don't make anymore. You now get a injector with 7mm tip and a 9mm sleeve to fill the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both for your replies and info. I very much appreciate your help.
After much trial and error I was able to match my two radiator hoses with Napa hoses that I just needed to cut down to size along with new gauges and serpentine belt. I was also able to find a serpentine belt through Napa NBH25080550. I also added new gauges for Oil pressure, battery and coolant. The old oil pressure guage did not read at all. The new one shows around 50psi at idle but then drops to about 30psi under full throttle. Not sure if this is normal but the engine seems to run great otherwise. Engine temp was about 180 at full throttle for about 15 mins wide open on the new gauge. I also had to rebuild the radiator as it was severely rotten and leaking.

I rewired the unit and bypassed the push button. As @char1355 mentioned above the system operated just as he described. Someone added the push button for whatever reason as I could see where the original wires had been spliced in. I removed it and rewired as factory which makes operation easier just using the toggle switch and key and eliminating the button. I found out about the wire that powers the fuel solenoid as it had fallen down when I rewired all the gauges. Once plugged back in she fired right up.

Thank you for the link on the engine manual at cummins.

Sean
 

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Glad I could help some. Oil pressure sounds about normal. If the engine had new bearings it might be a bit higher. The bypass on the oil filter plate is set at 65 PSI. We have seen engines go beyond that in cold weather situations. Probably due to the bypass valve or pressure regulator being defective. There are 2 valves in the oil pressure system. Of course a worn oil pump would have lower pressure too.
 
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