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I am looking at getting a 6BT out of a 95 3/4 truck and I was wanting to know how much electronics I would expect to find. I currently have a 6.2 which has no electronics to it and I like it better that way. I dont plan on removing the 6.2 but rather put the 6BT on a 84 Chevy 4x4 frame and putting a 58 Apache body on that.
 

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Unless it says "24 Valve" it is not electronic. Lots of power can be had by just tweaking the pump.
 

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there are no electronics controlling the engine.
New to the 4 & 6bt world. I'm putting a 6bt into a customers vehicle and was told it was a 93. It has a computer & engine harness??? Also looking for some good info as to how to hook things up. Previous owner started cutting wires.

Thanks
 

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There is still the electronic heating of the airbox and the fuel heater. I'm not sure about the fuel heater, but the airbox heating kicks in for starting when temps are below a certain level. It's a timed duration of heating - varying with how cold it is outside. That's the "computer control" involved in the 12v models. There is also the fuel shutoff solenoid - I guess that is digital in nature (on or off), so it could be considered "computer controlled". You've got the same sort of thing going on the 6.2 - a glow plug controller for starting and a fuel shutoff solenoid.
 

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I don't use of the Dodge wiring harness ,to much of a pain to try to wire up just a grid heaters.

Just use your harness that you have and wire up the grid heater.


Scott
 

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LCS, yes it does have a computer. It controls the voltage rom the alternator going to the battery and CC. You can easily do away with it. The grid heaters are on a relay. In fact 89-91.4 engines didn't have a computer....
 

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You can easily do away with it. The grid heaters are on a relay. In fact 89-91.4 engines didn't have a computer....
Looking again at the computer schematic, most items relate to an Auto trans and this vehicle has a Dodge NV4500HD.
So, what do I do about the water/fuel sensor (hook direct to a ign source & dash light)? What about the "Wait to start" curcuit and "Intake air temp" circuit? Also, do I need to deal with the Speed Control circuit? What's the ASD relay circuit and how do I address it? Lastly, do I just connect the heater relays to a 12volt source? Ign or Batt?

Sorry for all the Q's, wiring isn't my friend.
 

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Looking again at the computer schematic, most items relate to an Auto trans and this vehicle has a Dodge NV4500HD.
So, what do I do about the water/fuel sensor (hook direct to a ign source & dash light)?
Yes, I believe that would work. The other option is to eliminate it by replacing the filter with one that has just a water drain. I think I have that listed in one of the FAQ threads.

What about the "Wait to start" curcuit and "Intake air temp" circuit?
These were monitored by the computer on the fender well. They sensed switches and probe sensors and responded by triggering the proper relays.

Also, do I need to deal with the Speed Control circuit?
I think that either went to the electronic speedometer from the computer or was incoming from the transmission. I'm not totally sure on this item. I think the 94 and up had an engine speed control that actually controlled the engine speed by the computer but that is a bit too new for me. The 94 or 98 (?? years) accelerator was "fly by wire"??

What's the ASD relay circuit and how do I address it? Lastly, do I just connect the heater relays to a 12volt source? Ign or Batt?
The ASD is the automatic shut down relay which was also on the fender well.
One side went to the run side of the ignition and the other side, both small terminals went to the control circuit side one to the ignition run side and the other to ground. The other half controlled positive side voltage going to the side terminal of the injection pump's shut off solenoid. When you turned the ignition key it triggered the relay and puts 12 volts to the solenoid through a fusible link wire. For the grid heaters you can use a Ford style single pole normally open starter relay (fender well mounted) and wire the control side to a push button. Wire the control side hot under the hood and have it so the wire coming through the firewall and going to the push button switch is the grounding lead. That way if it should ever rub through it won't set you vehicle on fire. All added under hood relays should be wired in this manner whenever possible or have fuses.
 

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The solenoids on the p-pump trucks aren't computer controlled at all. There are two circuits, the pull circuit, and the hold circuit. The Pull circuit draws a good amount of amperage. Its the one with the relay and fusible link. Power is fed directly off the battery. Relay is actuated by a wire that goes down to the starter. The hold circuit is just a 12v switched source thats one both on the run and start positions. Draws less than 10 amps. Thats all thats needed.
 
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