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I have been following your posts and I am glad you found it. Thanks for sharing the "culprit."
PLEASE pardon my ignorance, but I have to confess that I am not familiar with EB setups. Are they normally controlled by a double acting cylinder (if I am looking at your pic correctly)?
Thanks.
moxiecat
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I think most of the older ones I have seen are vacuum controlled with a diaphram type thing and spring return like a brake booster. Well the one I took off was. This is an aftermarket one made here in australia and is a bit smaller and neater than the old one. I am not all that familiar with other makes of EB,s and later model commercial ones may be like this. I dont know.

Keith
 

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This one had me puzzled - glad you found an inexpensive answer!
 
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Glad you found the culprit. I'm surprised the engine ran at all. I looked at using the factory exhaust brake on my build and decided against it due to it's condition. Mine was pretty corroded and inoperable. Let us know how it runs with the EB opened up.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #25
AdamR. Read through all your thread the other night. Very informative and I will have to read it again.No idea how old this engine is though.I still have to adjust the idle and set the electronic speedo and tacho.
Took it for a run up the drive today and managed 8 pounds of boost in second gear in the LT95.
Next , swap some plates on it and do a road test on the back roads here. No decent hills though.
I originally had a LT95 out of an old Range Rover in it. With this turbo install I pulled it out and put in one of two ex Aussie Army LT95 A ,s I bought at an auction. Pig in a Poke. Had a look inside before I swapped and looked OK but the road test will tell me more. These later LT95,s have a close shift , as in less side to side in neutral which feels different and they have better taper roller bearings in the intermediate shaft. Fingers crossed.With the camper shell on its pretty heavy and the EB is useful on long down hill runs. I have a dash switch that I can turn it off when not needed running around town etc.
The second auto box I put in that 6x6 was a 4L80E behind the Chev 6.2. I had two oil coolers on it and it still boiled the oil. I gave it away and put a 5 speed Isuzu manual box, cable shift behind it. Its good now but the Chev is a bit underpowered.

Keith
 

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AdamR. Read through all your thread the other night. Very informative and I will have to read it again.No idea how old this engine is though.I still have to adjust the idle and set the electronic speedo and tacho.
Took it for a run up the drive today and managed 8 pounds of boost in second gear in the LT95.
Next , swap some plates on it and do a road test on the back roads here. No decent hills though.
I originally had a LT95 out of an old Range Rover in it. With this turbo install I pulled it out and put in one of two ex Aussie Army LT95 A ,s I bought at an auction. Pig in a Poke. Had a look inside before I swapped and looked OK but the road test will tell me more. These later LT95,s have a close shift , as in less side to side in neutral which feels different and they have better taper roller bearings in the intermediate shaft. Fingers crossed.With the camper shell on its pretty heavy and the EB is useful on long down hill runs. I have a dash switch that I can turn it off when not needed running around town etc.
The second auto box I put in that 6x6 was a 4L80E behind the Chev 6.2. I had two oil coolers on it and it still boiled the oil. I gave it away and put a 5 speed Isuzu manual box, cable shift behind it. Its good now but the Chev is a bit underpowered.

Keith
 

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I used to have a friend in California who was a diesel mech , he said that 6.2 was a converted ,(gas) he had,had a pickup then an Olds, had motor problems so he got it cheep , because he new what was wrong with it, fixed it & told me he was looking for a gas engine, I asked WHY , said because it will just go again, they are no good , a yr later it happened again , put in the gas he had found , nearly wiped it out on a corner due to the big diff in HP He told me the gas block is not beefy enough for diesel & exactly what was happening , but I don’t remember (30yrs) ago
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yeah, I bought it before the internet. If I knew then what I know now I would not have bought it.
The guy here in Brisbane imported them ex Hummers so said they must be good. The other thing that swayed me was I could bolt a Turbo 700 auto up behind it. I had visions that if I got crook out bush my wife could drive me back with the auto. Never happened. The Turbo 700 broke and the 4L80E after it was not suitable hence the Isuzu manual box now. If the 6.2 karks it I can bolt a 4BD1T straight up now. Should have done that in the first place but was ignorant of them. The 6x6 with the Chev has only done 60,000 Kilometers so who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Got to do a test run. Mainly to work out how to get the new VDO speedo calibrated. I was stumped as I could not get the needle to move with one wheel jacked up. It has a Hall Effect sensor on the LT95 transfer box. I messaged the guy I bought it off through ebay and he said "check the pulse"
Did a bit more reading and read the speedo factory pulse. It was 55000.
I looked at the one on the 6x6 I had working and checked it. It was 16000. Trid that on the new one and finally got the needle to move but it read far to fast. Anyway to cut a long story short I rigged up my GPS and using its speedo got my pulse down to 3600 and its nearly right now. Dont know why the big difference to the 6x6 as it has a LT95, 4.7 diffs and 900 x 16 tyres the same as this one.
Now the turbo. Going up a bit of a hill foot flat, starting at 10 psi boost all the way to max at 18 psi it makes a helluva scream. Never come across that before. My Landy with the 200TDI does not do that.
Max boost I can get is 18 at 550 EGT
Dont these turbos get more than that or do I need to open the fuel screw? Nooby on this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #33

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Discussion Starter #34
Decided on the Donaldson Powercore D090115
It has 4 inch pipes so easy to reduce to 3 inch for the turbo and keep the 4 inch to a new snorkle.It will do 500 CFM and is the only one compact enough to fit in my available space without more cut and shut. Its about $360 and replacement elements $60 Australian.

FC facelift 09 by

Its got to fit in here once I pull this out. I dont want to move the radiator for the WTA if I can help it.
 
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