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I took the van out for a spin with the egt gauge hooked up and noticed some weird things. This is a new (I think) autometer gauge from ebay. First thing out of the box the gauge needle sits at 400*F. When I give the gauge power it drops to zero. Then when I start up the truck it jumps to 400*F. It then stays there regardless of the load I put on the engine, or even if the engine is just sitting there idleing. Then when I turn the truck off (and power is disconected to the gauge) it stays at 400*F. So basicly it only drops to zero when I give it power, but only when the engine is off. When the engine is idleing and I turn on some power drain (like lights) the gauge drops to about 300*F, but as soon as I give it some throttle the gauge jumps up to 400*f even when in park. I also noticed that the lights will brighten up some when the engine is above idle. So maybe I have a funny alternator? I have hooked up the gauge properly even hooking it up to the fuse box of the truck. The only thing I did that I think is unique is that the fuse box seems to have ground terminals, so I hooked up the gauge ground to the termainal in the fuse box. Could this be the problem? My mulitmeter said that was ground and I thought hey, why not, so I put a spade terminal on the ground wire and pluged it into what apears to be ground on the fuse box. I will try tomorrow with a real ground to the body and see if there is any change. The only thing I can think of is that the ground on the fuse box also goes threw something else that causes resistence and is messing up my gauge, but why then does my gauge not read zero when all power is disconected?
Granted the pump has not been turned up at all but shouldn't I still get some responce out of the gauge. All I want right now is to get some base line readings before I turn up the pump.
Matthew
 

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There was a recent run of AutoMeter Pyrometers that had junk senders/thermocouples. AutoMeter knows about it and warranties them. There's an easy identifier of which ones, but I can't recall what that is. I'd call them and give them the model number and ask them straight up, "Isn't this the gauge that has the problem sender [thermocouple]?"

If it is they fix you up for free.
 

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Being at 400* with no power then going to 0 when power is added is proper operation the autometer gage. But after that you have a problem.If the ground change doesnt fix your problem contact autometer. They sent me another probe and then a brand new gage when the probe didnt fix my problem. Its all just a pain because of the delays.
Carl

1979 F-250 crew cab 4 x 4
4 bta
ZF S-42 5 speed
Borg Warner 1356 x-case
Dana 60 rear
Dana 44 front
3.55 gears
255/85R16 tires (33.5x10.5)
Hydroboost steering and brakes
Custom 40 gal. fuel tank
Much more later
 
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