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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So finally I get around to looking at mounting the turbo and exhaust this past weekend and after pulling the compressor housing off I find this...







There seems to be oil all over the place inside there which would suggest the seal is blown. There's not a huge amount of play in the shaft but It will walk back and forth a bit. I'm guessing the compressor wheel is trashed but is the housing bad too?

I'm new to turbos so I don't know how bad this really is. Obviously anything making contact like this isn't good but can I salvage this turbo?

Andy
 

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What CC59 said. You might contact HTT [High Tech Turbo] as they have several upgrades available. I chose the HTT Stage II which gets you a larger compressor housing and larger compressor impeller with a better A/F ratio, to produce better power and lower EGT's [Exhaust Gas Temps]. Runs about $285and equals HY35 w/o waste gate. Well, whichever is the lesser of the two, HY35 or HX35, that's what it equals. Never can remember which is which....

The turbo bearing is in a casette and can be ordered separately, bout $75-$100 last time I checked. Also check the various Dodge Cummins forums because lots of guys toss the H1C in favor of a larger upgrade so the leftovers go for cheap, like $100-$150? Even HX35 or HY35 aren't that spendy used, but have them check and guarantee the end play before buying!!! Also good to check forum archives to see if it's a guy that's a regular and trustworthy.
 

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what kind of turbo is it, the stock one?
 

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The housing might clean up.
But your core needs rebuilt or replaced. The compressor wheel, bearings and seals need replaced.

Exhaust wheel may be reusable.
 

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Toast

Toast... the impeller is scrap... compressor housing might be able to be machined to the next larger size impeller (would require a CNC lathe to machine the correct profile).. Might salvage the bearing housing, diffuser, turbine housing, turbine wheel/shaft and a few bolts. All the other parts... oil slinger, thrust collar, thrust bearing & journal bearings, piston rings are not worth taking a chance on. There is a high probability the impeller diameter (small) on the shaft based on the damage will runout with respect to the journal diameters and exceed specs.. should be less than .075mm max.

Even if you found all the parts, at a minimum the rotor assembly needs to be balanced...best left for the experts

Looks like an H1 based on the 6 sided rotor nut. I believe all of the later HY, HX, HE Holset turbos have the 12 point rotor nut.

Just my 2 cents... but I suggest you remove the shaft & wheel (rotor nut/shaft thread is a left hand) and inspect the journal bearings for possible failure associated with oil contamination, starvation or foreign debris to the turbine wheel. This could give some insight to other issues before another turbo is bolted on and toasted!
 

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I havent been able to find much information on Holset turbos. Is there a Garret turbo that would interchange? or any other brand for that matter?
 

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I agree with all, but I would look around for a good used one. Those sell for less than $200 on ebay. I have bought and used 4 good used turbos from ebay with no problem. You just need to ask about the bearing play and hold out for one that is good and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Well thanks for conferming my fears guys :) I pretty much thought that at a minimum the thing would need a new compressor wheel and a rebuild. Sounds like it might be easier/cheaper to just find a used one.
What CC59 said. You might contact HTT [High Tech Turbo] as they have several upgrades available. I chose the HTT Stage II which gets you a larger compressor housing and larger compressor impeller with a better A/F ratio, to produce better power and lower EGT's [Exhaust Gas Temps]. Runs about $285and equals HY35 w/o waste gate. Well, whichever is the lesser of the two, HY35 or HX35, that's what it equals. Never can remember which is which....
JimmyD was that $285 for a complete turbo or just a rebuild and upgrade?

Edit: Oh yeah it is the stock H1C. Forgot to mention that.
 

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Hi Fangoul,

Sorry to say, in respect of your needs, neither! That $285 price is only for the compressor housing and compressor impeller, not for a rebuild or a complete turbo.

The H1C isn't of great value to 6BT drivers for the most part. Guys that want performance will choose from one of the later models, HY35, HX35 or others. That's good news for us because the H1C can put out plenty to keep a 4BT quite happy and powerful, yet they sell for cheap 2nd hand. I don't want to steer anybody away from this website of course, but some of the Dodge diesel forums have classifieds and I've seen H1C go for $100-$150 quite often. Also it's from a member of those forums so maybe less likely to be a ripoff than a total stranger on e-bay?

Lastly, though there are several other forums for Dodge Diesels they just don't much cater to 4BT's, so this forum site here is the place to call home for 4BT info and swaps! The others don't begin to compare, but sometimes they're a resource for parts.
 

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if you do buy from ebay, watch out for buying from some of the rice rocket guys. We bought a mitsubishi turbo for a small toyota diesel and it is decent but a little beat up and was advertised as 'near new' when it had a cheesy coat of silver paint over a well used dirty housing. Stupidly my friend gave him good feedback because it arrived promptly. I have had friends say every turbo they've bought on ebay is toast.

I bought mine on the classfieds at turbo diesel register, that anyone can use (but is preferred that you are a TDR member). Twice now. Nothing but good ocmments, and fairly cheap. I got a very clean HY35W for $250 with 50K original miles, and super tight.. And a good WH1C for $150 there.. A
 

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Yep, and Diesel Truck Resource. Lots of 'go fast' guys there continually upgrading their rigs, and on the 1st Gen 6BT's one of the first major upgrades is turbo. This '4BTswaps.com' site wasn't up, or I didn't know about it, when I did my swap. The boys over there humored me and gave some good advice to get me through some tight spots even though they don't deal in 4BT's.

In case a reader doesn't know, the 4BT pump & turbo is identical to 1st Gen CTD 6BT, and most internal parts are same-o-same-o.
 
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