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Discussion Starter #1
Maybe i don't know how to phrase my question into the search.. or google.. but I sure did try to use the search feature and googled the heck out of what I'm looking for to almost no avail. I have a chance to buy a decently priced ISB 170 with an allison. Looking to put it in my 58 F-100.

Im very nervous about the wiring. I never really tangled with a beast such as this. Furthermore, id want to tuck the wire a bit so it won't look like a squid in the engine bay with all that harness everywhere. What do i really need to make it run? 12v, ground, constant switched 12v, and TPS from what i understand, but the TPS is in the pedal, correct? If the other things I'm omitting (such as cruise or whatever have you be) are they just to be removed from the string of wires?.. or could i not connect something else and suddenly the truck won't run or go into limp mode or some junk?

Thanks everyone for the help in advance.
 

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When you got the engine, did you get the complete wiring harness. If so, you won't be eliminating any for the most part. You're dealing with a totally computer controlled engine and transmission. Just the nature of the beast. There are a few guys on the forum who are working with that type engine. I'd be the first to admit mostly ignorance to the workings of that engine. Member Steed might be a person who can help you. He is a computer expert in the US Army and is currently building one of those engines for a swap.
 

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Deffkayy, I'm in the process of swapping a qsb which I belive is very similar to your ISB 170. If you have the "engine side" of the harness, the "oem side" isn't that bad. Basically, key-on, and TPS are all you need to make it run. The rest of the connections would be for bells and whistles.

I have the part numbers for the connector and pins you would need. If you register on QuickServe and put in your Engine serial number you can view the schematic too.

I used a Williams brand accelerator pedal from a cummins school bus in mine. Got it on ebay for 60 bucks.

For your gauges you'll want to interface with the can bus. There's a few different approaches to that. Probably the easiest or cheapest would be what's called a "scangauge-d".

To answer your question though, the engine ecm doesnt care if you have cruise, or even any gauges hooked up to run. I ran mine on a test stand withe the bare minimum hooked up and no faults, ran like a kitten. Again, as long as you have all the "engine side" of the harness which would be the middle connector on the ecm.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So I've been a little quiet but got the engine and trans yesterday. Now I get the luxury of whittling down the wiring harness. *rolls eyes*

I have the complete truck harness down to the trucks wiring. Came out of a freight liner bread truck.
 

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Like every site, I'm sure y'all like pictures of the project so heres a few.

This is where i stand right now. Got the motor stripped of the squid like wiring harness, and laid them out half decent. Took off all the stuff I decided not to paint around and started cleaning them up. Also i sprayed everything down with brake cleaner to get all the junk off. Should be rolling nice soon...

Im going to try and get the harness together tonight and tomorrow yet. Haven't really thought of a good way to clean the harness good and clean. Thought the dishwasher was a good idea, but the other half didn't think that was going to happen.. she goes to sleep in an hour or two anyways..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For your gauges you'll want to interface with the can bus. There's a few different approaches to that. Probably the easiest or cheapest would be what's called a "scangauge-d".

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
If only it wasn't soo unsightly. Im not sure I'm a fan. Ive been pondering if i can stuff a gauge cluster from a Ram up in there... anyone see it done before?
 

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I would imagine that engine uses j1939 canbus. Not positive though, maybe someone else knows the isb better. If it does use j1939 There are some nice gauges out there. Check out FW-Murphy. I use them at work on Military applications and they're really high quality. I am using a Murphy "gauge driver" which takes the can signal and converts it to analog outputs to run basically any old aftermarket gauges. The nice thing about utilizing the can-bus is its just two wires you Daisy chain all your gauges and devices together.

Another option I was exploring was using a freightliner pusher bus cluster j1939. You can find them on ebay all day. Not positive they would work but probably.

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I'm in the process of building this very harness. (Actually, it's already built.) I've got about 25 wires tied into the plug. Maybe someone can chime in (sorry not trying to hijack) my harness is for a 3.3 qsb. I've got everything hooked up that I came think of. Have a scangauge d hooked to the j1939 plug I built into the harness to moniter things. Anyway, when I turn the key, I can hear the egr valve cycle and see the vgt actuator cycle. It cranks but won't start. I don't belive I'm building rail psi and I don't believe the injectors are recieving signal (probably due to no rail psi). I've ran the 6 wires for the tps but haven't purchased the actual tps or throttle control yet. Didn't want to spend the money if I couldn't get the engine to run. From what I read above, it sounds like the taste needs to be hooked up in order to make it run? I assumed it would just start and idle without the throttle control hooked up, is that assumption not correct? Anyway, like I said, just built a nice harness. If you need part number and info on building a harness, I'd be glad to share what I know. Building the harness was actually surprisingly simple, especially considering I'm an electrical novice at best.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What I've got so far
Harness looks clean and what i imagined in my head. I felt super confident when looking at the diagram and the harness that was there... now that i have all the wire loom off I'm not so sure. Either way, it is what it is haha.

What military gauges were you talking about Jimbo? Maybe I've run into them before, and maybe id run them. The whole time I've been thinking about this swap, I've been thinking about how the push button shifter of a FMTV or LMTV is.. and thought that would be neat.. but i don't know how to actuate a park with something of that nature.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Speed bump. Ended up taking the truck down as far as I thought I needed to.. after I couldn't get the trans to fit with the stock trans cross member. The damn thing is still in there 2 days later.. I've pounded the rivets as hard as I could with a sledge and no budge. Then I found some serious rust issues to deal with. When I get my post count up a bit I'll post pics.
 

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Deffkayy, I'm in the process of swapping a qsb which I belive is very similar to your ISB 170. If you have the "engine side" of the harness, the "oem side" isn't that bad. Basically, key-on, and TPS are all you need to make it run. The rest of the connections would be for bells and whistles.

I have the part numbers for the connector and pins you would need. If you register on QuickServe and put in your Engine serial number you can view the schematic too.

I used a Williams brand accelerator pedal from a cummins school bus in mine. Got it on ebay for 60 bucks.

For your gauges you'll want to interface with the can bus. There's a few different approaches to that. Probably the easiest or cheapest would be what's called a "scangauge-d".

To answer your question though, the engine ecm doesnt care if you have cruise, or even any gauges hooked up to run. I ran mine on a test stand withe the bare minimum hooked up and no faults, ran like a kitten. Again, as long as you have all the "engine side" of the harness which would be the middle connector on the ecm.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
CaN you send me the part number for the pedal?
 
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