Great presentation. I have one of these and will be following closely.
Yeah it probably would have been fine for 30-40k kms but it was not fine in reality. Catching all this now minimizes collateral damages and a breakdown possibly a log ways from help. I do not think one should swap in a 25+ year old engine with out doing this no mater how good it looks. Mine was by far to cleanest 4BD1T I have seen in all the research and looking at pictures I have done but looks do not mean squat.good stuff to look for before dropping the motor into the truck!
That stamped in B is the grade of your cylinder liner. If you can get graded cylinder liner kits then you'll be well ahead for NVH, particularly at idle. It seems none of the aftermarket rebuild kits are graded for fit, they are all "loose". They work, but the engine is noisier and you'll have more blowby.One issue I did fin is this:
Thanks, I am defiantly replacing that liner.That stamped in B is the grade of your cylinder liner. If you can get graded cylinder liner kits then you'll be well ahead for NVH, particularly at idle. It seems none of the aftermarket rebuild kits are graded for fit, they are all "loose". They work, but the engine is noisier and you'll have more blowby.
For this reason I'd be tempted to not replace working pistons/rings/liners and possibly get a B grade 4BD2T liner only.
I can't think of any easy repair options that would let you keep that liner in.
Yeah I was in the same boat about 7 years back. I went with generic ungraded liners and I wish I hadn't.I really did not want to do anything that would make it louder but in the end the difference between $1200 and $300 is huge.
Yes if I had the funds to buy new Isuzu stuff but the money tree is ever sparse it seems. I am using quality liners and pistons, so no China parts in there.Yeah I was in the same boat about 7 years back. I went with generic ungraded liners and I wish I hadn't.
I almost consider stripping my engine, boring it out, fitting cast liners and boring those to the tightest size that will work with the generic liners. If I'm ever inside my engine again, I'll do just that.
You will need to repair the gouge, at least where it seals around water and oil ports. Don't deck the block, you'll just cause more problems and have to reclaim the lost height somewhere else.
Mine has never been apart. IMO they aren't a remotely common failure part. Run it.What is the consensus on water pumps, do they last a long time or should I preemptively replace it?
Thank you! Kind of fuigured that, not like it would be a big deal the change on the truck its 3 bolts and two belts.Mine has never been apart. IMO they aren't a remotely common failure part. Run it.
Yes I wish I had known it was that bad when I started but this way I get it all cleaned out with a bonus of a fresh rebuildMy 4BD2-TC water pump was weeping out the drain hole so I replaced it then.
I hadn't noticed your alternator and AC mount brackets, I like them, what was the original application?
Too bad you pulled it apart already, with that kind of scum in the cooling system I have had good luck flushing with cheapo white vinegar.
Drain the water, fill with vinegar, run to full temperature a time or two, drain, flush with LOTS of water, or water and the a weak baking soda solution.
I have had some freeze plugs "spontaneously" leak (after all the crap behind them falls out) but they are easy enough to change.
When you drain it the first time after doing that (for anyone that tries Vinegar) be ready to have some real ugly, chunky goo come out.