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Discussion Starter #182
Hmmm not sure. You dont have dowl pins stuck in the wrong hole do you?
I got it installed. I cranked (bumped) the engine and it slid in. However, the slave plunger seems about an inch too long. Autozone had not returned the core. so took some measurements. If I have to pull I will verify if lengths and widths are same as core. I broke the coolant flange so I'm replacing that. I would like to replace with an aluminum flange but for now I gong to go with plastic. When I purchased the other tranny, I replaced the pivot ball and it was longer than the one that came in it. I had to cut it down to fit. Maybe that is the issue with the slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Does anyone make a coolant flange for these swaps. Mine is a pita to install. The bottom flange that routes to the oil cooler is right against the adapter plate. Having a difficult bolting the left side on
 

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There are a couple different aluminum flanges out there including factory 5 speed ones but they are very wide. all will require some welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
A mild ALH dosent have to have a lift pump as stock setup was just a draw straw. But a lift pump is a good idea. The case of the VE pump is constantly dumping to the return anyway so whatever you lift to it then it will us the pressure it needs for timing adjustment and just return whats not needed. No need to regulate it.
I I completed the transmission install. Really line how smooth the gears change. Drove to beach over weekend. After leaving work today it was running great but suddenly cut off. I notices a hose was leaking fuel. Cut end off and re-attached. Hard to prime but got is running and make it to clients house. One hour later, tried to crank and no start. We determined lift pump is not working. After bleeding, finally it started. Drove fine all the way home. Arrived home, shut off and tried to start again but would not start. I remember you saying you installed a 2004 Cummings lift pump. I want to replace the Isuzu gas lift pump with a diesel lift pump. How did you modify your neck so the lift pump would fit? Any suggestions? Thanks!
 

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I didnt need to modify the fill neck. I used the dodge cummins liftpump/sender assembly and cut it down short to fit. About as close to bolt on as you could get. Details and pics are in my TDiclub thread. Im not sure if the overseas diesel isuzu of your era used lift pumps. I dont think they did. On a ALH under 190HP you dont need a lift pump. It runs fin as just a draw straw like it was in the stock setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #187 (Edited)
I looked at your pictures. It appears no mods were needed as far mounting. I would like to use the Cummins pump like you have, you know it is made better. As you said, I read that is doesn't need a lift pump but the 2002 New Beetle that the engine came out of had a fuel pump in the tank. When the fuel pump quit a couple of days ago, the engine died. I did get it re-primed and I made it to my clients house. Before leaving clients house we had to prime it again. Maybe because I have a "T" between the supply line and return line is the reason it loses prime..... How bout an electric pump that mounts outside of the tank that has a pressure regulator? I feel better if I have a fuel pump since the car had a fuel pump. Looking for easiest and best solution.
 

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I have been wrong before but Im 99% positive no ALH powered bug or Jetta had a lift pump 98-2003. Wasent until 2004 with the BEW did they get a lift pump. You can add a pump just make sure its regulated down somewhere around 9psi or lower. If you want to go real cheap and easy you can get rid of the pump and the "T" and put a boat prime pump ball inline. They have them for diesel and there usally green. Works great after a filter change or anytime you need to prime.
 

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Discussion Starter #189 (Edited)
Here is the pump that came out of the beetle. I removed the "T" and placed a check valv3. Will the IP still pull fuel through the pump although the pump is not functioning? Looking at swap on the conversion site, why did you choose the Cummins pump if you don't need one?
20190619_230603.jpg
20190619_230629.jpg
 

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I caint tell from the blurry pics but if that has 4 wires then it could be a 2004 PD lift pump that somebody added. Its not factory for the 2003 down. If its 2 wires its just a sending unit with the crappy return system that fails on the ALH cars. At any rate if a PD lift pump fails the ALH will not like it and it will not draw through the dead pump properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
I liked the idea so I ordered a Rubber Fuel Transfer Vacuum Fuel Line Hand Primer Pump Bulb. Can't have too many options. Especially when it comes to priming a diesel. I read somewhere that they make an inline fuel pump that if it fails will continue to allow the IP to pull fuel. However, I can't remember where. Here is one I found that has low psi but good volume. Would this work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Micro-Electric-Fuel-Pump-Kit-Diesel-35-GPH-4-7-PSI-Inlet-Outlet-5-16/291916990513?epid=1695961400&hash=item43f79bc831:g:lnEAAOSwikNcuC7P
 

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There are pumps that the VE pump will pull through but I caint confirm that is one of them.
I can confirm that the Edelbrock branded green pump can NOT be pulled through.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
I recently purchased a reman transmission form autozone. I placed the truck on stands to verify leaks, etc. I noticed the transmission is loud when engaged in gear. When I place in neutral and press the clutch, quiets down, when released it is noisy. When we installed it, unlike the previous transmission, it was difficult to install. We had to bump the starter to get it to go in. . I have taken to a transmission specialist down the road from me and he doesn't rebuild manuals but he thinks it is the input bearing or pilot bearing. How is the best way to test this?
 

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Input bearing is the weak spot on these transmissions. Mine is loud also in neutral with clutch engaged. Make sure you have enough syncromesh in it and call it good.
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Hey Motohead1,
Hope all is well with you. I finally put 32 inch tires on my truck. A guy bought a new jeep and replaced the tires and rims. I bought 5 brand new tires and rims for 350.00. I had to buy adapters. Brought my RPMs down to 2200 @ 70mph. I had a bad leak at the injection pump This weekend I replaced the top injection pump seals. Engine seems to run quieter. What should the quantity adjustment read? My is currently 3.05. My glow plugs are not working. Been a little difficult to crank when temp is below 40 degrees. I ohm out the plugs and they are all good. I test each wire on the harness and getting 12v on all but one. It appears to be cylinder 4(one closes to the firewall). Not sure how to test this wire. Any ideas? I've been thinking about going with push button manual glow plugs. Thanks
 

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Hey Motohead1,
Hope all is well with you. I finally put 32 inch tires on my truck. A guy bought a new jeep and replaced the tires and rims. I bought 5 brand new tires and rims for 350.00. I had to buy adapters. Brought my RPMs down to 2200 @ 70mph. I had a bad leak at the injection pump This weekend I replaced the top injection pump seals. Engine seems to run quieter. What should the quantity adjustment read? My is currently 3.05. My glow plugs are not working. Been a little difficult to crank when temp is below 40 degrees. I ohm out the plugs and they are all good. I test each wire on the harness and getting 12v on all but one. It appears to be cylinder 4(one closes to the firewall). Not sure how to test this wire. Any ideas? I've been thinking about going with push button manual glow plugs. Thanks
Yea I resealed the top of my pump several months ago. The big leak on mine was the back end o-ring where the dilivery valves are. theres a video on how to do that one without removing the pump. took about an hour. no leaks now. 2200RPM at 70mph should be just about right with the weight of you truck and you should see some FE increase. The IQ voltage should be anywhere from 3 to 5 volts. I personally have found that 3.3 to 4 volts is the sweet spot on my setup. Use the hammer mod to adjust if needed. Glow plugs help when its below 40. I have mine on a push button for simplicity. you can wire them up like normal through the ECU if you want. Best winter start mod I did was add a inline radiator hose heater not far from the back of the head outlet. I have it plugged into a wall timer that turns on a few hours befor I head out. Nothing like haveing 90* water temps and instant head in the morning not to mention it keeps the windsheild defrosted.
 

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Discussion Starter #200
Yea I resealed the top of my pump several months ago. The big leak on mine was the back end o-ring where the dilivery valves are. theres a video on how to do that one without removing the pump. took about an hour. no leaks now. 2200RPM at 70mph should be just about right with the weight of you truck and you should see some FE increase. The IQ voltage should be anywhere from 3 to 5 volts. I personally have found that 3.3 to 4 volts is the sweet spot on my setup. Use the hammer mod to adjust if needed. Glow plugs help when its below 40. I have mine on a push button for simplicity. you can wire them up like normal through the ECU if you want. Best winter start mod I did was add a inline radiator hose heater not far from the back of the head outlet. I have it plugged into a wall timer that turns on a few hours befor I head out. Nothing like haveing 90* water temps and instant head in the morning not to mention it keeps the windsheild defrosted.
All the leaks are gone; I noticed the crank time is taking 4 to 5 cranks before starting since I replaced the seals. After starting, it starts on the first crank. When I go to lunch, its the same thing, 3-4 cranks. Today with temps around 58 it should have started on first crank. Also, the battery is new and same as the original VW battery. Sounds like it is leaking down. Any ideas? It runs much quitter since replacing the seals. I am going to check the timing when arrive home...... I have reviewed the video and will replace the O ring at Thanksgiving.
 
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