Isuzu pickup space cab TDI swap wiring harness
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Hey,
I just had mechanic replace my fork and throw out bearing. Clutch was hard to press. A month, after the repair, I am getting a squealing noise in neutral as I start to press the clutch. If press all the way it quiets down. It sounds like the release bearing bad. Either defective or cheap! What is the best release bearing to purchase?
I just had mechanic replace my fork and throw out bearing. Clutch was hard to press. A month, after the repair, I am getting a squealing noise in neutral as I start to press the clutch. If press all the way it quiets down. It sounds like the release bearing bad. Either defective or cheap! What is the best release bearing to purchase?
What adapter kit are you using? And clutch for a Isuzu?
TDC 203 CHEVY SMALL BLOCK ADAPTER KIT with an 1995 S10 NV3500 transmission. A year ago, I replaced the transmission with a factory re-manufactured from autozone. Transmission was loud from the get-go. I thought it was input shaft but a month ago, replaced the throw out bearing and fork which eliminated the noisy transmission. Now getting a squealing noise at the start of depressing the clutch. No problem changing gears. I ordered a Delco OEM today.
Always replace it yes. and it should be a pilot bearing not a brass bushing.
As long as your runout is within spec or better a roller berring (quality) should not fail. Im saying that with my very limited experiance as I have never had a roller pilot fail. That being said there are adapter companies out there that have put pilot bushings in there setup and the bushing was not long lived and it ate the trans input bearing, also those adapters where on or out of the runout spec. TDconvertions (Now midwest) does not have this issue. I have well over 100K miles on mine and the runout measured less than .002 Im sure a bushing is fine and I have used them in factory setups in stock applications but my experience with adapter setups is roller bearing is better when runout is withing spec.
Looking at the attached pictures and links, how do I remove the pilot bearing? I don't think I can use the bread method on this setup. Comparing the new delco throwout bearing to the one recently replaced, it appears bad. There is little play in the input shaft but how much play is allowed? Looking at this link can you tell if I need to replace the pressure plate. Only about 15000 miles of wear. One of the springs appears to have some wear on it. I remember I bought it from autozone and probably not the best quality.
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Throwout bearing is fried for sure. Input will have some radial play as long as there is no axel or in and out play. I dont even see a pilot bearing in there so I guess thats a bushing? I guess that would make sence if GM used a bushing in that application. Go borrow the pilot removal tool from O-reilles autoparts. That friction disk is worn and I can see atleast 1 crack in the hub plate. Go grab a LUK clutch. there cheap but quality. Sachs is also good factory replacement. I have over 100k miles on my LUK. I think I got it from rock auto.
Am I looking at the bushing correctly. It appears like there are two bushings. I have to go through my pictures from my original swap. Hopefully I've have some of the pilot bushing install
Just talked to Randy of TDConversions. He says I need a PB 656 bronze bushing. I ordered a Luks clutch kit which comes with a throw-out bearing but I going to use the Chevrolet Delco OEM throwout bearing. I asked Randy is it a must to use this bushing. I had also ordered the pilot bearing before I removed the transmission not realizing I needed to replace the pressure plate and disk.
The pilot bearing is slightly too small... How do I get the old bushing out. I tried autozone pilot bearing removal tool but the jaw are too big to get any grab. I broke the tool trying to get it tight enough. Do I need to use a bolt slightly bigger than the diameter of the bushing? About the only option i have.
Finally got the correct clutch kit. I have the GM OEM throw out bearing. I've installed the pressure plate and disc. In the process of installing the fork and throw out bearing. I noticed the throw out bearing appears to be loose. If I hold it downward it will just fall off. This fork is new. It was installed by the mechanic who basically did a crappy job about month ago. Not sure it is high quality. The videos I have watched, the throwout bearing appears to be tight.
Here is a video...Fork
Here is a video...Fork
Make sure the retention spring in the fork is not stretched. Just bend it back a little if so but once its in there it should be fine.
I got it all put back together. Re-bled line the to ensure no air in line. Pedal not hard but smooth however I can't get into reverse. Makes grinding noise. The only way to get it into reverse is to shut it off, place in reverse and restart. Nothing has changed other than a new kit. Same master and slave. I can put it in first, start engine and it tries to move just a little - a slight rock. However, to get it to move off, I have to depress the clutch about half way before pulling off. What could be wrong. I almost 100% certain I placed the the flat of the disc to the flywheel. Another thing it shakes..... I jack rear end of the ground and had someone shift to reverse while I place a long screw driver behind the fork and pressed to the rear and still would not go in gear. I pressed it far back as it can go. This verifies it not the slave. This kit is exactly same as kit I had previously. Time to remove the transmission. Pain!
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