Isuzu pickup space cab TDI swap wiring harness
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What gauges do you recommend? I bought the GlowShift gauges but have temp gauge not lighting up and ETG gauges light up but pegs out. I never save money by going cheap. What are the best and reliable ones? Some say ISSPRO gauges and some say autometer?
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I am running GlowShift gauges (Fuel pressure and Fuel level) in my F150 (in signature below). Not very impressed - still working, but had a series of problems with the small wiring connectors in the back of the gauges. They did warn me about installing a pulse snubber on the fuel pressure sender. I previously had the Stewart-Warner electric fuel senders die (no snubber). The fuel pressure sender is a great diagnostics tool - mine reads the output pressure of the fuel filter.
Maybe 15 years ago (1971 IH pickup), buying the best did not work out for me - I bought some ISSPRO gauges, with separate control boxes for the electronics, and the ISSPRO electric senders. They worked for a little over a year - loved the 270 sweep dials. The the gauges started failing. Eventually, only one of the 3 gauges worked. A real bear to troubleshoot. Sensor on the engine, control box, gauge and double the amount of wires. By year 2, they were in the trash can and I bought some moderate priced gauges at one of the chain auto parts stores (can't which store or what brand).
I have a JEGS (Intellitronix labels inside) digital dash installed in a 1962 Volvo. Every year or so, it has an internal "Brain Freeze" and locks-up the display. I have to turn off the ignition to reset it - then re-calibrate the digital speedometer. Some problems noted:
1. The GPS speedometer is worthless under 20 MPH - a real problem in a 15 MPH School Zone. Temporary fix was to mark the analog tachometer to show 15 MPH in 2nd gear. Permanent fix was 4 magnets on the drive shaft and a magnetic pickup (leftover parts from an aftermarket cruise control installation).
2. The oil pressure readings go wonky below 30 PSI (checked against an analog gauge) and do not even pretend to read any oil pressures below 8 PSI.
Russ
Maybe 15 years ago (1971 IH pickup), buying the best did not work out for me - I bought some ISSPRO gauges, with separate control boxes for the electronics, and the ISSPRO electric senders. They worked for a little over a year - loved the 270 sweep dials. The the gauges started failing. Eventually, only one of the 3 gauges worked. A real bear to troubleshoot. Sensor on the engine, control box, gauge and double the amount of wires. By year 2, they were in the trash can and I bought some moderate priced gauges at one of the chain auto parts stores (can't which store or what brand).
I have a JEGS (Intellitronix labels inside) digital dash installed in a 1962 Volvo. Every year or so, it has an internal "Brain Freeze" and locks-up the display. I have to turn off the ignition to reset it - then re-calibrate the digital speedometer. Some problems noted:
1. The GPS speedometer is worthless under 20 MPH - a real problem in a 15 MPH School Zone. Temporary fix was to mark the analog tachometer to show 15 MPH in 2nd gear. Permanent fix was 4 magnets on the drive shaft and a magnetic pickup (leftover parts from an aftermarket cruise control installation).
2. The oil pressure readings go wonky below 30 PSI (checked against an analog gauge) and do not even pretend to read any oil pressures below 8 PSI.
Russ
I have a issue with the Brake & Clutch Pedal Logic Switcher and Synchronizer I bought from fastforward. Getting really hot and blowing fuses. I had a dead link to fastforward I saved when i last ordered the but found the new link .. Is there a work around for this? About a couple of weeks it would shut while backing up. Monday while driving home it shutoff a couple of times. Any suggestions?
A normal 40amp relay with big wires will work. It will work to slow when its cold out but a key flip fixes it so the cruise works. It should never make it cut off though? strange.
It has progressively got worse when backing up. It shuts off consistently. Never shutoff going forward until Monday. There is nothing as far as wiring is concerned that would affect engine while backing up. I have the backup light disconnected.
check for broken grounds. brown wires that are brittle or not enough grounds can cause issues. any codes?
Finally got a code.
16567 - Fuel Temp. Sensor A (G81)
P0183 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
so thats in the pump. Follow that wire and see if its chaffing anywhere. Also hook up VCDS and see what the temp bulb is reading after it cools to ambiant temp. Kinda sounds like a short to me.
I replaced the fuel sensor. Easy cheap fix but did not fix issue. Fuel temp ambient temp 33.3. However, I think I found the issue. Motor mount broke on driver side.
I did find the issue with shutting off. On the way to work everyday, there is a place almost like a ditch that I cross. Hitting that everyday broke my motor mount which crushed my crankshaft sensor wire. I built a new motor mount that definitely will not break. I having issue with slow starting. Taking 4 or 5 turns before starting. From the vagcom, I logged these measurements.
Hey Motohead,
My starter bolt recently backed out and after attempting to tighten notice bot holes threads are stripped. I repaired with a heli-coil. When attempting to start, sounds like something is jamming. Is there a way to shim this starter or do I need purchase a new plate.
My starter bolt recently backed out and after attempting to tighten notice bot holes threads are stripped. I repaired with a heli-coil. When attempting to start, sounds like something is jamming. Is there a way to shim this starter or do I need purchase a new plate.
Did you check to see what other bolts got loose? Flywheel, block adapter, starter adapter.... all of them. An use lock tight.
I was getting ready to remove the tranny and thought the way the adapter is made there is no way to shim it. Then I thought let me check the length of the inside starter bolt. Sure enough it was new bolt it was longer than the original bolt and enough to hit the flywheel. I use locktite on everything with the vibration.... I still have the long cranks before starting. Takes a toll on the starter. I had to install Heli coils but it is very secure now. Fast Forward says my computer is not program right. I put a new wiring harness which I wished I done in the beginning. My son can connect a pull strap to the truck and barely pull off and it will start immediately. So I know it must be something with computer.
yep somthing is wrong in the tune. Should fire within a half turn.
David wanted me to verify TDC is correct. When I connected the Vagcom, diagram did not give a line displaying if advanced or restarted. I use coat hanger on cylinder 1 injector. Got it as close as I could plus verified at harmonic balancer. I know the timing is correct. By the display not working correctly, either my laptop has issues or ECM does. This truck as never started correctly. Always long starts.
yea you have to find out why its not displaying in VAGcom.
The timing graph shows a yellow dot but no line, but at the bottom of the graph displays 69 which is very advanced. In the past, I have completed this step multiple times
Currently it is starting on couple revolutions. However, until lately it would start when cold within a couple of revolutions but long starts when hot.
I have a bad valve cover leak once the new cover arrives, I will test again when hot.... I have the latest vagcom downloaded and installed
Don't know why the line is not displaying. Also, All of sudden I am seeing fault errors. After I purchased the new wiring harness, the only fault errors was the glow plugs. Again, I am thinking a bad ECM or not program correctly.
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