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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
I am replacing my intake and exhaust manifold. Looking at the turbo it appears to be leaking oil. Vane is tight almost no movement from side and no movement in out. May be good time to purchase the BMW manifold and turbo

turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #282 ·
What gauges do you recommend? I bought the GlowShift gauges but have temp gauge not lighting up and ETG gauges light up but pegs out. I never save money by going cheap. What are the best and reliable ones? Some say ISSPRO gauges and some say autometer?
 

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I am running GlowShift gauges (Fuel pressure and Fuel level) in my F150 (in signature below). Not very impressed - still working, but had a series of problems with the small wiring connectors in the back of the gauges. They did warn me about installing a pulse snubber on the fuel pressure sender. I previously had the Stewart-Warner electric fuel senders die (no snubber). The fuel pressure sender is a great diagnostics tool - mine reads the output pressure of the fuel filter.

Maybe 15 years ago (1971 IH pickup), buying the best did not work out for me - I bought some ISSPRO gauges, with separate control boxes for the electronics, and the ISSPRO electric senders. They worked for a little over a year - loved the 270 sweep dials. The the gauges started failing. Eventually, only one of the 3 gauges worked. A real bear to troubleshoot. Sensor on the engine, control box, gauge and double the amount of wires. By year 2, they were in the trash can and I bought some moderate priced gauges at one of the chain auto parts stores (can't which store or what brand).

I have a JEGS (Intellitronix labels inside) digital dash installed in a 1962 Volvo. Every year or so, it has an internal "Brain Freeze" and locks-up the display. I have to turn off the ignition to reset it - then re-calibrate the digital speedometer. Some problems noted:
1. The GPS speedometer is worthless under 20 MPH - a real problem in a 15 MPH School Zone. Temporary fix was to mark the analog tachometer to show 15 MPH in 2nd gear. Permanent fix was 4 magnets on the drive shaft and a magnetic pickup (leftover parts from an aftermarket cruise control installation).
2. The oil pressure readings go wonky below 30 PSI (checked against an analog gauge) and do not even pretend to read any oil pressures below 8 PSI.

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Thanks Russ!
I guess it doesn't matter. The only difference are the bells and whistles?? For the temp gauge I may try the isuzu temp gauge that is already installed. They last forever. However, I must purchase an ETG gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #285 · (Edited)
I have a issue with the Brake & Clutch Pedal Logic Switcher and Synchronizer I bought from fastforward. Getting really hot and blowing fuses. I had a dead link to fastforward I saved when i last ordered the but found the new link .. Is there a work around for this? About a couple of weeks it would shut while backing up. Monday while driving home it shutoff a couple of times. Any suggestions?
 

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I have a issue with the Brake & Clutch Pedal Logic Switcher and Synchronizer I bought from fastforward. Getting really hot and blowing fuses. I had a dead link to fastforward I saved when i last ordered the but found the new link .. Is there a work around for this? About a couple of weeks it would shut while backing up. Monday while driving home it shutoff a couple of times. Any suggestions?
A normal 40amp relay with big wires will work. It will work to slow when its cold out but a key flip fixes it so the cruise works. It should never make it cut off though? strange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
A normal 40amp relay with big wires will work. It will work to slow when its cold out but a key flip fixes it so the cruise works. It should never make it cut off though? strange.
It has progressively got worse when backing up. It shuts off consistently. Never shutoff going forward until Monday. There is nothing as far as wiring is concerned that would affect engine while backing up. I have the backup light disconnected.
 

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It has progressively got worse when backing up. It shuts off consistently. Never shutoff going forward until Monday. There is nothing as far as wiring is concerned that would affect engine while backing up. I have the backup light disconnected.
check for broken grounds. brown wires that are brittle or not enough grounds can cause issues. any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
It has progressively got worse when backing up. It shuts off consistently. Never shutoff going forward until Monday. There is nothing as far as wiring is concerned that would affect engine while backing up. I have the backup light disconnected.
Finally got a code.
16567 - Fuel Temp. Sensor A (G81)
P0183 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
 

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Finally got a code.
16567 - Fuel Temp. Sensor A (G81)
P0183 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
so thats in the pump. Follow that wire and see if its chaffing anywhere. Also hook up VCDS and see what the temp bulb is reading after it cools to ambiant temp. Kinda sounds like a short to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
so thats in the pump. Follow that wire and see if its chaffing anywhere. Also hook up VCDS and see what the temp bulb is reading after it cools to ambiant temp. Kinda sounds like a short to me.
I replaced the fuel sensor. Easy cheap fix but did not fix issue. Fuel temp ambient temp 33.3. However, I think I found the issue. Motor mount broke on driver side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #292 ·
I replaced the fuel sensor. Easy cheap fix but did not fix issue. Fuel temp ambient temp 33.3. However, I think I found the issue. Motor mount broke on driver side.
I did find the issue with shutting off. On the way to work everyday, there is a place almost like a ditch that I cross. Hitting that everyday broke my motor mount which crushed my crankshaft sensor wire. I built a new motor mount that definitely will not break. I having issue with slow starting. Taking 4 or 5 turns before starting. From the vagcom, I logged these measurements.
 

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