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Discussion Starter #161
The VW brake switch does not work they way you think. you MUST have the brake switch installed or you will get the dead pedal on first try of a start and also cruise control wont work. You can also use a 5pin relay but it will randomly mess up and can be reset with a key-on-off while rolling. I finally went with Brake & Clutch Pedal Logic Switcher and Synchronizer https://www.fastforward.ca/signalprocessors/ Its faster than a 5pin relay setup and works every time.
Again thanks for all your help! I just ordered. Once, I get this resolved, I should be good to go(hopefully). I did notice in the description "this is useful when you are using a 1999.5 Volkswagen Audi Group ECU that have Brake and Clutch logic “backwards” to most vehicles from the 1900s." Mine is a 2002 new beetle engine. Will this still work?
 

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Yes it will work. Look at the brake switch logic in the Bently and it will make sense. Just do a seach on TDI club for brake switch logic and you will see why the inputs and out puts are strange
 

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Discussion Starter #163
My Brake and Clutch Pedal Logic Switcher Synchronizer arrived today. Do I need to install the VW break switch or can I use the Isuzu? If I have to use the VW brake switch, I will need to purchase a wiring plug. Where can I order one? . I'm lost.
 

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If you use the VW brake switch there would be no need for the switcher. I use my stock dodge brake switch. Use your stock isuzu brake switch and hook up the switcher to it. This gives the ECU the 2 signals it needs. The synchronize switches them simultaneously so you get no brake codes. Download the instructions from FFwd.
 

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Discussion Starter #165 (Edited)
I wired it according to HasenWerk schematic. Where did you get 50mA nominal Fuse? I wish he had included a fuse with it. I would have gladly paid the difference! Not started yet, gotta find a fuse!
 

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Discussion Starter #166
David said 3a fuse would work.. Truck runs perfect. Starts quicker. Much quieter and sounds like a different engine. Now I got to bite the bullet and buy some 20" rims and tires. I was hoping to find some 20" from salvage yard but no luck. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #167
I drove it 80 miles Ran really good. Arrived back and it returned to idle (loses pedal). The difference now is when i cut it off and on the pedal immediately returns. Before it would take a few seconds for the pedal to return. It lost pedal about three times. Maybe I have a bad connection(solder).
 

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Discussion Starter #169
I reset the codes. Re-terminated-soldered all 5 wires. I verified continuity and mapped wire to ECM>>>>. On connector Pin 1 -Gry/Wht >>>>121/63, Pin2 - Yel/Grn >>121/12, Pin3- Gry/Red>>>121/50, Pin 4-Wht/Blu>>>121/69, Pin5-Gry/Wht>>>121/70, Pin 6-Grn/Red>>>121/51. Drove it 30 miles and so far no codes other than the glow plug code. The glow plug harness end is not getting a good connection. I tried pinching the end. It will go away and later come back I guess from the vibration. Tomorrow I will drive around town and see what happens. So far so good. If any new codes, will post.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
After 4 days of driving, no issue with limp mode. It runs great... On more issue, when I installed the NV3500 transmission I noticed it had a leak. I thought maybe it was the gasket around the gear shift housing. Not so lucky, the rear housing has hairline crack were bolted on. I noticed leak was getting larger so I tired to repair by welding. Just made it worse. Couldn't get it clean enough I guess without taking the transmission out. I noticed a more metal flakes on the magnetic plug than I like. It changes gears ok but gear shift a little sloppy and sometime a little difficult to find reverse. I am thinking about buy a re-manufactured transmission. I read these transmissions are not easy to rebuild and really don't have the time. Any suggestions on where is the best place to buy a re manufactured transmission?
 

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Just go grab one from a junk yard. Chevy made a crapload of them so should be easy to find a relatively low mile one. Funny timing I just swapped out my Dodge NV3500 today for a low mile one out of a yard. after 285k miles ,and 60k of that with the diesel, it started jumping out of gear and after a month 1st,3rd,5th was crap shoot. Input shaft had like1/8th inch of play when I pulled it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
I called around to several yards and only found one 1994 Chevy S10 v6 5 speed manual transmission is 800.00 . I can purchased a re-manufactured for 1000.00. When you say there are plenty, do I need to go to a salvage yard and take mine with me to compare. I'm almost certain mine is a NV3500 because the sides have the "Waffle" look.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Plug in 1994 chevy s10 2 wheel drive, manual, zip code 27534 and see what you get. I'm getting nothing.
 

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The search is weird. Plug in 1996 then 1997 then 1998. Im seeing quite a few. You can talk them down too. If it says $350 tell then you got $250 cash. They will not say no.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
Thanks. I'm seeing a few now...Did you install new seals in the one you recently purchased or did you just install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Going to check out a couple of transmissions this week. Both have around 200,000 miles. How many miles on your transmission?
 

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300k seems to be near the limit of a nv3500. Some die sooner. just make sue there is still preload on the output shaft. any endplay at all walk away. The one I just put in is around 180k on it. Just change the fluid (Pennzoil syncromesh or BG syncroshift) in them every 30k or so and the work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
I bought a nv3500 re- manufactured trans from autozone. I couldn't find a 5 speed that was any better than what I had. Looks identical as mine.The bell housing and all fit perfect but it likes almost 1/4 from sliding all the way in. What could be the problem?
 
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