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diesel was not very good. At least that's what what I've read. Now I'm understanding that the newer ones are much better than the old ones. The Mahindra truck is supposed to have one in it. Can someone please tell us the good ones and the ones to avoid? This also should be done for the Hino, Fuso, or what ever, i.e., the lesser known japanese diesels at least in the US..
 

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i know better the 2.5L 4d56, that is more widely used back here... there are versions of it going from 87hp to 180hp in a racing version... my grandpa had a 100hp one in a square-bodied mitsubishi L200... the 3.2L 4m41 is currently being offered in the montero, nativa (montero sport) and the brazilian version of the triton (thai versions also offer the 4d56)... there was a idi 2.8L that i don't remember the code but this one is a piece of crap...
 

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I know a good bit about the 4D55 2.3L and the 4D56 2.5L Mitsu Diesels, since i'm running a 2.5 in my '84 D50 Project Truck.

It's a fairly stout engine by itself, but i has a few glaring flaws that can be fixed. First off, just because it aint a Cummins, doesn't mean it won't give you a KDP Problem. I encountered this flaw, the Camshaft has a Dowel Pin in it to line up the Sprocket and it can work itself out of the cam. My engine kept on running till it rotated/tightened the sprocket and bolt enough to snap the head off the bolt.

Fortunately the Rocker Arms are a weak-link in the engine, rather soft. They'll break in the event of Valve-Piston Contact, instead of subjecting the engine to internal damage. It was a good excuse for me to upgrade some things on the original 2.3L, I ordered a 4D56 Cam and Adjustable Roller Rocker Arms and it snow balled from there. A small Cam & Rocker replacement turned into a "Might aswell Build it into a bigger engine" deal :D (BTW, the 4D55 and 4D56 share the same engine block, different internals/rotating assembly)

I used a Camshaft Sprocket Bolt for a 2000 Toyota Sienna with the 3.0L V6 in the new cam, it features a rather large head on the bolt, which covers the dowel pin. So i don't have to worry about it working itself out again.

Next up is the Mitsubishi Turbos used on the 4D5x, they have a rather short lifespan of about 40k before they need rebuilt and the Overhaul Kits for them are a little pricey. I encountered this one too. There's now a Garrett T3 A/R .42 bolted to the Exhaust Manifold. :D That mod requires a different Flange on the Manifold or a custom adapter, Also requires a modified Oil Line and Return Line and a different Downpipe. The positive : It's got a real 3" Exhaust Housing to match the 3" Exhaust on my truck and a better wastegate design.

Glow Plugs are hard to find some times, and the trucks use a weird 6V system for the Plugs. Easy remedy, i encountered this too.. NGK 7880 (Y710J) Plugs, a 12V Plug used in 80's Isuzu pickups. It's a perfect match for the 6V plug used in the 4D5x. Great if you've went with a Manual (Momentary On Switch) Glow Plug System.

Any particular questions, just let me know.
 

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Not so hot. I work on my projects on the weekends, in the shop where i work during the week. So everything has to be out by monday morning. The manifold and turbo are still on the work bench, the "PW50" as i've taken to calling it (for "Power Wagon 50") is parked outside some 100' from the garage. Once i get the Intake and Exhaust manifolds reinstalled (and the turbo) i expect it'll run great. The original mitsu turbo kicked the bucket last month, the other stuff i mentioned happened prior to that (over the course of about 4 years)

Prior to the turbo going out, it did pretty good for being such a tiny engine. Enough that it'd putt around the property on 40" Tires in high range without bogging down.
 

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The mitsu turbos aren't exactly the most brilliantly designed. No bearings, just one Aluminum "bushing" with copper plating on it. Eggs out real nice and allows alot of slop/play. Yeah i've heard they were infamous for head gasket problems. I haven't had that problem yet (keyword : yet). I'm running a Pulling Electric Fan and a Pushing (secondary) Electric Fan on the little truck to be on the safe side, along with Mechanical Gauges.
 

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i have seen head gasket failures only in 4d56s from the 141hp version but this issue has already been solved in newer ones... it wasn't developed to be a power monster, i still remember those 87hp ones, very reliable engines... at least the 4d56 is still license-made by kia/hyundai but the turbos used in these are not exactly the same ones, also there are some improved versions using vgt turbos sourced by garrett...
 

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4d55

I'll admit that my experience with the 4d55 is limited. most of the ones I worked on were naturally aspirated and few turbos. In my experience they are a economic and reliable engine if not very powerfull. Pretty equivalent to the isuzu engines in chevys-gmcs.

I do appreciate you guys are speaking from personal experience not just pulling it out of you know where. I am putting my Fuso fe project for sale not because I want to but because I am short on money and need to be realistic about what can get done.

The company I work for now has all sorts of trucks including one fe ~14000 pound truck and two fm ~33000 pound trucks with air brakes. I'll try to get some good pictures, our drivers love the Fuso trucks and are not so fond of our GMC topkicks(what a poor clutch cable set up among other things). The FMs are quiet, smooth (air ride suspension, seats and cabs), get int tight spaces, shift easy and have a good engine brake.

Our Fuso and our Sterling trucks with the Mercedes OM906LA have gone for years without nothing more than maintenance and small repairs. Unlike our internationals with the DT466e that kept blowing injectors and one that the engine had to be outframed at only 200.000 miles. Or our Cat 3116 and 3126 which never run right ( especially the 3116) and drool oil.
 

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Oh, here's some more fun info on the 55/56

The Earlier 4D5x engines run a VE41 Injector Pump that is very similar to the VE44 used on the earlier CTDs. Which means you can crank er up using the same methods. And the VE41 has a 4,500 rpm spring in it :eek:

1983 (ish) - 1992 ran the VE41. Sometime in the early 90's they added an electronic Variable Timing setup to the injection system. I don't know much about those ones though. And starting in 99 or 00 they started making a Common Rail 4D56 (available in Direct Injection SOHC and DOHC if i remember correctly)

It's still in use in other countries as far as i know, hard to find parts for here in the States. But the parts can be found (new) in other countries.
 

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I have a '91 437 that I just bought I'm finding very little info about the Fuso trucks. It's a low mileage truck w/14' box on it. Automatic, I think 3.9 liters(is this correct)? It runs great but we have some pretty gnarly hills around here and I would like to turn up the power a little. any directions as to how to do this. I will put a Pyrometer on it.
 

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91 mitsubishi

I have a '91 437 that I just bought I'm finding very little info about the Fuso trucks. It's a low mileage truck w/14' box on it. Automatic, I think 3.9 liters(is this correct)? It runs great but we have some pretty gnarly hills around here and I would like to turn up the power a little. any directions as to how to do this. I will put a Pyrometer on it.
I think you have an fe model, the fg 4 wheel drive only came with manuals, the fh is similar but is the next size bigger. You probably have a 4d31 or 4d34 turbo intercooled engine rated at about 130 hp. Assuming the engine is not low on power because of something like an intake pressure leak or a bad transmission there is a lot you can do.

These engines use a inline pump built by Zexel or Kiki under Bosch license so you can turn up the fuel and advance like you would on a a 6bt. The engine is already high revving from the factory. With more fuel a bigger turbo and intercooler you can get a lot more power.
 

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I just want to add a little power, what is the proceedure for turning up the pump? I think it runs "right" the only thing that might not be 100% is it's a lttle rich at idle.
 

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91 mitsubishi

The easiest thing you can do without buying any parts is to bump the advance 1 or 2 degrees. Also you can turn up the fuel with the star wheel accessible under the plug on the top of the governor ahead of the aneroid valve. Go incrementally, test drive and see how it runs.

Get a pyrometer and a manifold pressure gauge, very usefull when modifying and driving in general.

If by running rich at idle you mean a no load miss its normal for older Mitsubishi and Isuzu.
 

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And starting in 99 or 00 they started making a Common Rail 4D56 (available in Direct Injection SOHC and DOHC if i remember correctly)

It's still in use in other countries as far as i know, hard to find parts for here in the States. But the parts can be found (new) in other countries.
these common-rail 4d56 are avaliable brand-new even in mexico, either in detuned sohc versions license-made by hyundai to be used in the h100 vans, wagons and cabover pickups or the dohc 134hp @ 3500rpm/230lb.ft. @ 2000rpm ones used in the mitsubishi current pickups generation...
 

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these common-rail 4d56 are avaliable brand-new even in mexico.
Good to know, that widens the search area for new parts.

Oh yeah, an Intercooled version of the VE Pump 4D56 and the Common Rail 4D56 was available too. It features a small Intercooler mounted on top of the engine (oooo hood scoop)
 

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an Intercooled version of the VE Pump 4D56 and the Common Rail 4D56 was available too. It features a small Intercooler mounted on top of the engine (oooo hood scoop)
my grandpa had a ve pumped one but no intercooler...
 

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no load miss

Rich at idle=white smoke and watering eyes
Running rich would be black smoke, if it smokes white when you first start it or at idle in cold weather weather its normal. If it smokes a lot, shakes bad something is wrong.

Warm it up at a high idle, it will be a lot better, turn up the idle a little but in the end its normal for older Mitsubishi and isuzu and many other older diesels.
 

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I have a brand new 4D56 being shipped to me now, I'm going to install it into my Mazda B2600i.
 
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