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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a JD 4045T 115HP engine. 4cyl 4.5L top mounted turbo. Looks like it will fit, with turbo remounted to side. Quick search shows it weighs about 100lbs more than a 6.5. My Blazer is lifted w/HD front leafs, so front sump should clear. Comments and suggestions....does this swap make sense (vs a 6.5TD) ?
 

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Its good in theory minus the load goverened injection pump which can be considered dangerous for on-road use.....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can the governing feature of the IP be removed in some simple way, or will I need a different IP? Engine also has a Prince hyd pump on it. Might be a "16cc" pump, based on the Prince p/n. Maybe use it to drive HydroBoost, and power steering?

Also wondering if I'll twist the center out of my clutch disc, which is a 12" CenterForce brand. Present engine is 350gas.

The rest of my driveline is NV4500, NP205, Dana60 FF 4.88 and a beefed 10 bolt up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In Woodward Manual 04185 (PDF comes right up in search) it describes the removal of the governor in a DB4 series IP.
 

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I had spent over 13 years working as a tech for Deere, the 4045T can easily make 200 hp, but were usually limited to 140hp with a torque of 367 @1400rpm. They weigh in at around 1000lbs depending on application. You can also get sae flywheel housings for them so getting hooked to a transmission is pretty easy, the hard part will be finding a used flywheel for a clutch or torque converter. Phoenix adapters may have what you will need to make the connection. These have been done before, but if it were me I would go with a 6359T and a charge air cooler. They start great in the winter, run smooth, will run the higher rpm, and are very efficient... Good luck with your project either way! Pope
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For reference: comments are in ref to a John Deere 4045T (NON electronic), 4cyl 4.5L model 4045T w/ Stanadyne rotary IP, OEM turbo, 17:1 CR.,


Pope, I'm going forward w/ the 4045T swap. Am in parts collecting phase now. I bought a side-mount turbo exhaust manifold, and a high-mount oil filter assy so far. Will reuse GM6.5 radiator. Dodge 2nd gen IC will fit in front of GM radiator I read in a seperate, recent post (not bought/found one yet). Present gearing is 2250RPM at 60mph on 35s (NV4500/205/D60). I will tow a camper once in a while (3500 lbs), otherwise, it is not a DD, and I seldom exceed 60mph.

As to getting 140 HP, my objective is low fuel consumption, and low maintenance. I need to learn if stock turbo should be changed to bump up a bit from the stock 115HP spec., and on-road use vs constant RPM use. The Dodge IC will be used.

Can you suggest a boost level for my objectives (I don't even know what stock turbo PSI is)? Injector changes? spec sheet from JD attached. My engine is NOT electronic. View attachment JD4045 versions.pdf
 

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Cool! I look foward to watching your progress. These engines are very fuel efficient as well, even when running at the higher end of the HP spectrum.Which 4045 do you have? The SN plate will tell you if it is a 300 series or Power tech engine. The max boost pressures depends on the engine ( 300 series vs. power tech ) the 300 series industrial engine will be around 19 psi at full load, and the power tech were around 12psi. The boost that you will see will be relative to how hard you run the engine, the heavier the load the higher the boost. These use pencil injectors so you have limited choices for injectors, however they are relatively inexpensive and it is best to go new and not rebuilt when replacing them!!! Most of the power differences are in the pumps. I also found that by slightly advancing the pump timing these engines started and idled way better, and had a slight hp gain though not much.
Good luck and have fun with it!! Pope
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Engine: PowerTech 4045TF150A 115HP. mfg year 2000. It does have the dual balancing shafts installed.
IP: Stanadyne HO DB44439 - 5328W 2500. Fuel rate 76mm3/stroke at 115HP at 2500 RPM.
Turbo : Garrett RE59379. exh hsg A/R .81 M1 LG2. intake hsg A/R .50 M24 B.O.

Engine is on shop floor. Have never run it. Seller said it had only 0300hrs on it. From appearance, I believe him. If type of turbo should be changed for road operation, or maybe pump set up differently (remove governor?), it is best done before I drop it in chassis, me thinks.

Would appreciate your (or anyone's) comments on IP, stock turbo, and max boost this eng can live with for low maint, and perhaps a mild performance boost over present config.

Open to all suggestions.....fire away
 

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Any progress with this build? Been entertaining trying this with an 03-07 2500hd chevrolet, as these engines are everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, build is still a go. Collecting parts now. So far, I have found an exhaust manifold to side-mount the turbo. and a dropped front frame cross member (thanks Jake in New Bern, NC). I believe it is made by TN Diesel power (I may have this wrong). But it is made for 80s Chevy, possibly up to '91. Not sure if front sump will be an issue or not. There is a rear sump pan for this engine but unable to locate one so far. Turbo will need a 90deg ell to point exhaust straight down.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
any update?
Cripple, I'm in the planning - parts collecting phase at present.

I'd pull the gas engine out of the K5 now, and get started in earnest, but currently I am in progress with building my house (DIY) (with help from experts) and I need the truck and trailer to haul bldg materials.

At this time I don't anticipate the main aspects of the swap to be issues:

1. suspension should handle the weight of the JD4045 (multileaf Skyjacker 4" springs on front, quad shocked)
2. 6.5L TD radiator installed (is used w/ gas engine now)
3. Front sump should clear front diff housing (simply checked w/ tape measure)
4. 4.88s w/37s and the NV4500 ok assuming top rpm at 2500
5. down-facing turbo manifold and hi-mount oil filter mount have been acquired
6. will fab my own engine mounts.
7. spoke w/ state vehicle inspector, he gave green light to the swap, as long as exhaust goes out rear of vehicle.
8. Spoke w/ Phoenix castings. Their kit is a bolt in.

Needs at this time:
1. 90 deg ell for turbo exhaust. Source not known. Must have correct flange for turbo.
2. Stanadyne rotary IP is governor type. I am unsure if I should just leave it alone, or look at a different IP, or modify this one to delete gov action. Also, if there is an alternative IP w/ advance, would it be worth the expense? (engine has about 0300-hrs on it).
3. Decide on clutch upgrade. The Valaire may be overkill for this engine, rated 115HP in present form. There is a CenterForce 12" in the K5 now.
4. Unable to find published JD data on stock boost figures
5. Unable to find JD schematic for tach sensor in an OEM application. The stock (assume Hall effect) sensor is in place on front housing. I'd like to interface to my stock Chevy tach dash. It likely senses teeth on accy gear running at 1/2 crank speed, not sure. Pulses per rev unknown.

thanks for your interest! Steve
 

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Steve, I used a 90 deg turbo elbow from John Deere. I think it is used on a generator set. I also used the crank sensor from the 6.5 GM engine to drive the stock Chevy tach. My boost pressure on the stock turbo is about 15 pounds. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Roger, did the Chevy crank sensor screw into the JD accy housing, or elsewhere? There is already a sensor on this engine, probably hall-effect type. Do these JD accy drives run at 1/2-crank speed? Are the accy drive mountings an SAE std configuration? In a ddifferent post on this site I saw what looked like a GM power steering pump (HydroBoost) nounted directly to a 4BT accy drive. That would possibly simplify the serp configuration? The serp config on your 4045 looks like an OEM setup! JD4045 accy gear sensor.jpg
 

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Steve, I haven't been on here for some time. Sorry for the delay in answering. The only sensor on my engine was in the flywheel housing. I removed it because I think it sensed the teeth on the flywheel. The GMC crank sensor on the 6.2 engine mounts inside the engine just back of the front cover. I removed the GMC sensor and remounted it externally on the front of the JD engine. I made a plate that mounts between the crank and the damper pulley with the same number of lugs as the GM crank. I don't remember if it had 4,6, or 8 lugs. I took the easy way out. My auto transmission still thinks it has the 6.2 in front. By using the GM setup the tach and the trans worked with out having to worry about not having the correct pulse ratio to crank speed. My 4045 does not have an accy drive so I did not have that option. I am sure the accy drive is an SAE standard, but not sure which one. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Hi Roger, Thanks for the update. With regard to SAE mountings on the front accy drive, I'd like to know if the 4Bt power str pump mount is by some coincidence the same SAE size. I'd like to sort out the all the accy drives and brackets before I drop it in the chassis. This engine presently has a Prince hydraulic pump on one of the accy drive mounts. I have the Prince specs, but don't know if it is suitable (GPM and PSI) for steering and hydroboost duties.

Your 4045 must have an accy drive for the IP, right? And if the IP drive is SAE maybe other IPs would be an option if needed in future. One more thing, when you had your pan off did you notice if your block has piston squirters? JD expert would know the build code for this. Not sure if all 4045s have squirters.
 

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I can't see the value of this, but I can say you'll get sick of redlining it down the interstate, and will want taller gearing. It makes much more low-RPM torque than your 350 gasser, so the loss of gear reduction won't hurt.
 
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