Do you think there's any value in an aftermarket adjustable valve vs. an oem replacement? As far as I can tell, by poking at it, my current valve is functional.To get to 200 HP won't take all that much. I'd still do the torque plate in the pump and change the governor springs to 3000 RPM. That overflow valve is near the front on the back side of the injection pump. It's easy to access should you decide to change it also. Install a boost elbow on your HX30W that will allow you to adjust boost with a screw driver. It's an inexpensive pressure regulator. The final would be the timing adjustment. At 200 HP you will have at least 400 lb ft of torque or a bit better. About the same as a 454 big block Chevy. There is a possibility that your ESN may be stamped on the engine block back side just below the head. Cummins often put it there is they did a recon on the engine.
That is indeed my pump's part number, good to know! Been nervous to start advancing the timing without a CPL baseline to get started, but actually having that number now I can least verify the stock timing matches that CPL at 11.5 degrees before turning it up.One thing to check is look on the side of the injection pump. There will be a tag there with the Bosch part #. If you see PES4P120A120RS7313 you have a P7100 pump used on CPL1839. Don't know that pump was used on any other CPL. If the last 4 digits start with the number 3 instead of 7, then you have a P3000 that was only on industrial 4bt's. Mods for one of those might be a bit different. An "0" plate isn't usually used on anything other than racing as it is wide open all the time. Unless you plan to venture into the 400 HP range, I wouldn't think anything beyond a #10 will be necessary. That plate seems to be a favorite with the P pump Dodge guys. The #6 plate I had mentioned was the one found on the 230 HP 6bt which was only used in medium duty trucks. Dodge never used it because it had over 600 lb ft of torque which might have been damaging to transmissions or other parts. Doing mods in stages is always a good idea. The first would be the governor spring. The kits often come with 3000 and 4000 RPM springs. It would be exceedingly rare to ever pass 3000 RPM. Also, you want to think on having the engine balanced to go much higher. The rotating mass in on of these is probably more than double any gas engine. Everything in there is just super heavy.