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To get to 200 HP won't take all that much. I'd still do the torque plate in the pump and change the governor springs to 3000 RPM. That overflow valve is near the front on the back side of the injection pump. It's easy to access should you decide to change it also. Install a boost elbow on your HX30W that will allow you to adjust boost with a screw driver. It's an inexpensive pressure regulator. The final would be the timing adjustment. At 200 HP you will have at least 400 lb ft of torque or a bit better. About the same as a 454 big block Chevy. There is a possibility that your ESN may be stamped on the engine block back side just below the head. Cummins often put it there is they did a recon on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
To get to 200 HP won't take all that much. I'd still do the torque plate in the pump and change the governor springs to 3000 RPM. That overflow valve is near the front on the back side of the injection pump. It's easy to access should you decide to change it also. Install a boost elbow on your HX30W that will allow you to adjust boost with a screw driver. It's an inexpensive pressure regulator. The final would be the timing adjustment. At 200 HP you will have at least 400 lb ft of torque or a bit better. About the same as a 454 big block Chevy. There is a possibility that your ESN may be stamped on the engine block back side just below the head. Cummins often put it there is they did a recon on the engine.
Do you think there's any value in an aftermarket adjustable valve vs. an oem replacement? As far as I can tell, by poking at it, my current valve is functional.

I have a TurboSmart manual boost controller left over from my turbo Miata project, which I believe uses the proper internal ball-bearing valve. I'd imagine it could handle this application.

Man... that level of torque would be badass given the way my truck's going as a project.

Definitely going to check that spot for the ESN. Would be nice to have the ability to look it up & verify the history.
 
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That combi unit (vac/power steering) is going to be tough to fit in. To my knowledge, it isn't possible. I was able to fit in a power steering pump unit only, as I didn't have a need for vacuum. I hope it works for you. Also I bought a vertical oil filter as well and it just wouldn't work with a rear dump manifold. It's still on my shelf. I run probably the same CPL as you, so if I can help in any way don't hesitate to ask.
 

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The overflow valve doesn't have to be changed. I mention it because it sometimes becomes an issue. A company named Tork Teknology seems to be a main manufacturer of the aftermarket units. They are available in fixed values depending on your power lever or an adjustable model. The fixed values run around $30 and the adjustable around $50. Just something to keep in your info in case any issue arises. On the engine torque, a good rule is roughly 2 lb ft per HP. Can be a bit higher. One reason on higher performance engines you have to be careful of transmission and differential selection. That torque comes full on around 1800 RPM and can mean death to weaker vehicle parts.

Clhman, the combo units can be done but takes a few mods. The can on the unit has to be change to the round type used on the P7100 4bt which is a remote reservoir type. There was also one of that style used on some GM pickup diesels or Astro vans with hydroboost brakes. The hard part is mounting the support brace for the vacuum pump since it may want the same holes as the P7100 support. That brace has to be there or the vacuum pump ears will eventually break. That P7100 is just a big monster and takes up a lot of territory on that side of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I really appreciate all the info guys! Can only imagine how much time & money I'd be burning trying to go at this alone.

If it's just an issue of the reservoir fill neck conflicting with the pump then I may just chop it off & weld it back at an angle that works. Or if it makes more sense maybe just make a custom reservoir from scratch, would like to not have to add further hoses like in a remote reservoir setup.

Decided to pull the injectors & have them bench tested per your advice char1355. Figure I might as well do valve seals too, & I'll throw in 60lb white stripe springs while I have it apart to match the 4k GSK.
That messy #4 port has me nervous it could be related to either/both...
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Stripping the engine down, bit by bit:
(11.2 minutes)

And painting in a time warp:
(1.5 minutes)
 
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You're using your brains when trying to identify the cause for the oily, sooty rear port. There could be several contributing factors. One could be a weak or leaky injector allowing too much fuel there. The check out should eliminate that possible issue. A second could be bad valve seals which you also plan to address. A third could be bad rings making for lower compression in that cylinder. That one would require a compression test and if that was a problem you'd have no alternative than to pull the head and oil pan. On the power steering reservoir, there have been some who modified that unit to achieve the clearance. The main thing is not to get the can too small. If you had the original unit that came on that engine it would be a simple process of swapping the cans. If you could find a salvage yard with some Astro vans, there were many of those with the remote reservoir and round power steering can. The diesel trucks that had it were a bit more scarce.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Damned injectors were really giving me hell on the engine stand! Threw in the towel after wrestling with them for near an hour. The hold-down nut's just refused to let go & I didn't want the injectors spinning around the locator-ball & scoring up my cylinder head. I'll have another go at 'em once it's mounted in the engine bay so I can get the leverage I need... the stand scooting around as I tried was pretty comical :rasta:

But I did get my KDP sorted:


 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
The last week's been getting brutal with a motorcycle as a daily, BUT... I quickly forgot about riding home tonight on a seat covered in frost the moment I saw a distinct package sitting in front of my door just now :eek:

Pulled the trigger on a spankin' new "Super" HX30W:


Having this thing in hand is giving me a real "This project is finally happening!" kind of feeling.
 

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Looking good. You've definitely got the turbo for some serious power and the injection pump to provide the fuel to match it. Just a few small parts and a bit of tuning and you'll have a serious monster. 200-250 HP should be no problem and torque output will start to get serious. One of the really serious things you will need to do is adjust the pump timing. Install a new torque plate and adjust the timing to 16 degrees and hang onto your drawers because you'll have a dragon by the tail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I think I'll try a few of the basic afc mods: replacing oddball bolts, diaphragm flat washer, slide plate, & adjust the lever to match. I'll start with a #10 profile plate, could always go to a #100 or #0 from there if I want to push it further. I've read about this, but not sure about grinding down the barrel of the AFC arm for more rack travel...

Really want to adjust my pump timing a bit up from the stock setting (marked it all before disassembly) but I'm not sure where to start since I don't know my CPL, what with the plate missing.
 

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One thing to check is look on the side of the injection pump. There will be a tag there with the Bosch part #. If you see PES4P120A120RS7313 you have a P7100 pump used on CPL1839. Don't know that pump was used on any other CPL. If the last 4 digits start with the number 3 instead of 7, then you have a P3000 that was only on industrial 4bt's. Mods for one of those might be a bit different. An "0" plate isn't usually used on anything other than racing as it is wide open all the time. Unless you plan to venture into the 400 HP range, I wouldn't think anything beyond a #10 will be necessary. That plate seems to be a favorite with the P pump Dodge guys. The #6 plate I had mentioned was the one found on the 230 HP 6bt which was only used in medium duty trucks. Dodge never used it because it had over 600 lb ft of torque which might have been damaging to transmissions or other parts. Doing mods in stages is always a good idea. The first would be the governor spring. The kits often come with 3000 and 4000 RPM springs. It would be exceedingly rare to ever pass 3000 RPM. Also, you want to think on having the engine balanced to go much higher. The rotating mass in on of these is probably more than double any gas engine. Everything in there is just super heavy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
One thing to check is look on the side of the injection pump. There will be a tag there with the Bosch part #. If you see PES4P120A120RS7313 you have a P7100 pump used on CPL1839. Don't know that pump was used on any other CPL. If the last 4 digits start with the number 3 instead of 7, then you have a P3000 that was only on industrial 4bt's. Mods for one of those might be a bit different. An "0" plate isn't usually used on anything other than racing as it is wide open all the time. Unless you plan to venture into the 400 HP range, I wouldn't think anything beyond a #10 will be necessary. That plate seems to be a favorite with the P pump Dodge guys. The #6 plate I had mentioned was the one found on the 230 HP 6bt which was only used in medium duty trucks. Dodge never used it because it had over 600 lb ft of torque which might have been damaging to transmissions or other parts. Doing mods in stages is always a good idea. The first would be the governor spring. The kits often come with 3000 and 4000 RPM springs. It would be exceedingly rare to ever pass 3000 RPM. Also, you want to think on having the engine balanced to go much higher. The rotating mass in on of these is probably more than double any gas engine. Everything in there is just super heavy.
That is indeed my pump's part number, good to know! Been nervous to start advancing the timing without a CPL baseline to get started, but actually having that number now I can least verify the stock timing matches that CPL at 11.5 degrees before turning it up.

Yeah I doubt I'd end up going beyond a #10 plate as well. And I'll be swapping in these new HD 60lb valve springs to match the 4k gov springs.
 

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If you change the pump timing it would be good to do that while you take care of other issues like the KDP repair. That requires loosening the gear on the front of the pump which can be a bit of a bear. That gear is held in place strictly by friction and a very high torque on the attaching nut. There are aftermarket adjustable gears which would be great if you wanted to tinker with the timing. They aren't mega expensive and have a key way that keeps them in place. Don't want to advance timing beyond the 16 deg point due to the possibility of popping a head gasket. Any higher advance would need to consider head studs and O ring the head. For a mostly street driven vehicle, the 16 deg mark seems to be the magic number.
 

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So what's your plan for air filtration?

I'm fitting a Donaldson unit in my RRC and have had to chop the inner guard down by ~30mm so it could fit under the bonnet (hood). This isn't the best size unit, it's the biggest I could fit without major work. But your bigger suspension lift means you could chop more.
 
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