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Discussion Starter #541
Here's the footage of the initial road-test prep work + the clip of when the fulcrum lever failed & bumped the governor's flyweight which made it go a little wild on me:

Getting it all back together went as smoothly as I could've hoped for, only had to readjust a few of the standard things (torque plate lever arm, idle lever stop, throttle cable, etc) to match the new parts & then straight on to actual road testing:


All the road testing this weekend went well. Around 60-70 miles of solid oil pressure, coolant temp never passed 180 even without fans, shifted well, no throttle input issues, & no wobbles/shakes up to ~50-60mph. I was pleasantly surprised by the big unknowns with the brakes after the ABS delete (which felt great), & the steering which is honestly even better than before, but needs adjusting back to center since I got a little excited about the drive & forgot to align it before rolling out:


The "WTF?" looks I got while driving around were great hahaha! I moved right after starting the project, so no one in my area or most my neighbors have ever seen the thing. But what a great feeling to leave it out of the shop & parked in the driveway after bombing around... it's almost like a real car again :D


Next up is adding an external throttle-lever return spring to dampen throttle input, adjusting the steering + panhard links, adding more gauges, starting to get the hood cut up, & taking a look at the alternator pulley that's not wanting to stay tight. Then I really need to put it on corner weight scales, that way I can get up-rated coil springs to take the place of these rotten old lift springs that are just not up to the task of holding the added camper/cargo weight in back + new Cummins in front.
 
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Crap! I had not heard of this. Thankfully at this point I'm getting pretty good at swapping springs. Do you have a recommendation for a more reliable GSK?
Pretty much any other brand of GSK work fine.
 
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On the governor springs, do you really need 4000 RPM? Normally, most use 3000 RPM. The kits are often found for 4000 but you don't have to use the extra spring. Most of the running time is probably spent in the 1700-2000 RPM range.
The idea of 4000 over 3000 gsk isn't necessarily just for rpm. The 4000gsk will fuel harder/more up to 3000rpm, then a 3000gsk. So a 4000gsk will out perform a 3000gsk through out the rpm range from idle to what ever rpm you want to use.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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^What he said^ My 3k gsk starts to defuel around 2800 to 2900. Gives me plenty of room (rpm) to play with for shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter #545
Pretty much any other brand of GSK work fine.
Any other... so I bought the only troublemaker, figures! Well, again I appreciate the insight & it's getting added to my to-do list.

Interesting info on the rpm "buffer" zone of defueling in the flyweight springs. The more I dig into these engines the more I appreciate the beautiful simplicity. Finally learning about diesels feels like the first time (way back) that I went out of my way to learn how very early engine designs (steam, hot bulb, hit 'n miss, etc) worked.
 

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Any other... so I bought the only troublemaker, figures! Well, again I appreciate the insight & it's getting added to my to-do list.

Interesting info on the rpm "buffer" zone of defueling in the flyweight springs. The more I dig into these engines the more I appreciate the beautiful simplicity. Finally learning about diesels feels like the first time (way back) that I went out of my way to learn how very early engine designs (steam, hot bulb, hit 'n miss, etc) worked.
Man I’m super pumped for you and the swap! Your videos have been super helpful to me and my build. I can’t wait to see what trips you take your rig out on! I know It’s a little late now but DieselTuff.com carry’s cummins GSK Springs, that’s what I put in my 66 Bronco after reading about the pac brake ones.


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Discussion Starter #547
Man I’m super pumped for you and the swap! Your videos have been super helpful to me and my build. I can’t wait to see what trips you take your rig out on! I know It’s a little late now but DieselTuff.com carry’s cummins GSK Springs, that’s what I put in my 66 Bronco after reading about the pac brake ones.


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Glad they can be of some use! I'm looking forward to working on some more too, & hopefully I can make the electrical build parts not a snoozefest.
 

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Discussion Starter #548
Finally putting some road miles on the swap!

Taking it easy on it for now, especially after the last run got a bit out of control, & just until I get a few more gauges installed (Tacho, EGT, Boost etc)

 

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Discussion Starter #550
Sounds awesome. I notice your exhaust is totally clean. You've got the air/fuel mixture just right.
I was surprised the fuel mixture appeared so clean for a first try, especially after having it all apart for that recent pump repair. I haven't really beat on it yet, but once I get a few more things squared away (more gauges, lights etc) then I can lean on it more & see if the mixture stays clean. I just have to remember, like most tuning, to carefully change ONE thing at a time & keep track of changes so I know where to return to if something gets messy.
 

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Yeah, sort of look at it for a while before making any changes. Did you advance the injection pump timing any yet? If not, that can have a bid impact on performance. Best to stay around 16 deg or less for safety. If you have the #10 fuel plate and the added timing it should be very potent. Can easily support 30 PSI boost which can put you north of 200 HP. Your air fuel is just squeaky clean. Just remember, the leaner you can run the engine the better. That means most of your fuel is making power, not heat. When you see guys going down the road rolling black smoke, that's totally useless. I only saw just a wisp of black when you first cranked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #552
Yeah, I advanced it right to 16 if I recall correctly. I'm definitely not wanting to "roll coal" with this thing, but I can somewhat understand why younger guys just getting into wrenching think it's fun... can't say I wouldn't have had fun with that as teenager, something akin to making a gasser shoot flames. Once I finish the shop rebuild (that I'm up to my elbows in at the moment) then my first goal is getting more gauges in so I can work on pushing it harder & fine tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #553
Still alive!



Took a break offline during all this recent forced spare time. Figured if that is outside of my control, then at least I do have control with what I do with it, so I put my "nose to the grindstone" & went after a bunch of vehicle projects + personal health/hobby goals.

By some luck, for the first time in my life I managed to get EVERY vehicle project running and (mostly) driving! Highly unlikely this ever happens again, so better get some photos:



One of the more daunting tasks was thoroughly emptying out the whole shop to rebuild / reorganize / reclean everything.... now you can hardly tell it's the same place! (floor cleaned, leaks plugged, better lighting, updated wiring, air plumbed, insulation repaired, bunch of pallet racking, fabricated new weld table + welder carts + layout table + tool carts + hydraulic press etc)



Been driving the Rover around a couple times a week to expose any issues that couldn't be found while sitting static in the shop. I stopped in at a truck stop while I was out recently to roll it up on a scale... honestly quite a bit less weight than I expected! Of course there are a few hundred pounds more to come on board (hood, rear bumper, sliders, winch, bigger axles, etc) but I have a couple big weight cut ideas too.



As far as issues discovered: 1) The power steering return banjo fitting is STILL leaking... ARGH! I tried another fitting, several types of sealing washers, about to JBweld the freaking thing 😑 2) The pulley I modified wore its bore out on the OE Rover alternator, so I had some help from a talented machinist friend & his ever helpful coworkers to make a pulley v2.0 with a keyway + bushing, so far so good. 3) It was driving down the road super sketchy at first, but turned out I just forgot to adjust the panhard bar for the new mount & had a tire with only 10lbs of air. Only 10 minutes later & back to smooth driving down the road! It is honestly surprising how smooth it cruises at 60mph, even with these beat up lift coil-springs that are rated completely wrong now for this weight distribution with the new powertrain + camper. I should go back and get the front/back axle weights so I can get proper coil springs on the way.

 

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I thought it was illegal to have a shop that big. LOL. We all wish for that much space. Yours looks a bit neater than my older garage in the photo below. Mother nature decided the roof needed to be inside the building instead of on top during a recent hurricane storm. The house and the second garage came out OK.
 

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I thought it was illegal to have a shop that big. LOL. We all wish for that much space. Yours looks a bit neater than my older garage in the photo below. Mother nature decided the roof needed to be inside the building instead of on top during a recent hurricane storm. The house and the second garage came out OK.
OUCH
 

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Discussion Starter #556
I thought it was illegal to have a shop that big. LOL. We all wish for that much space. Yours looks a bit neater than my older garage in the photo below. Mother nature decided the roof needed to be inside the building instead of on top during a recent hurricane storm. The house and the second garage came out OK.
Damn! Glad you weren't inside when it caved!

I feel pretty lucky to have access to that space. That shop's at a friend's family farm where they used to work on tractors & the like in there. It was in serious disrepair after decades of the farm being non-operational, and man do I wish I had some "before" photos because it was run more by raccoons than by people & you couldn't walk thru it let alone pull a vehicle in! I still want to help rehab & display a lot more of the old vintage tools + equipment that are out there... lots of work but tons of hidden gems.
 
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Discussion Starter #557
Finally the dashboard makes a reappearance! But the new NV4500 shifter was always an interference issue (seen in middle, stub touching the lower dash), although I didn't guess it would be so close to clearing.


Didn't need to clearance much really, and a simple bit of bent plate did the trick for the reach. Plenty solid and puts the shifter in the most ergonomic position I could manage, but it may evolve as I get more miles behind hte wheel.


Here's my plan for adding some of the new gauges, not seen here & to be mounted elsewhere: Boost, Voltage for both batteries, Charge controller etc


Finally a new video after nearly 6 months! Ran out fuel, alternator pulley jumped ship, and getting the project weighed in:

Next on to the gauges, the lights, the hvac, the electrics, and a hood! (or whatever ends up left of it)
 
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Discussion Starter #558
My new custom gauge cluster is starting to take shape!


I'm using a 1/8" (aka 3mm) aluminum sheet that's a leftover of a milling machine's control cabinet that was being scrapped:


Gauges: Fuel level, engine oil pressure, engine coolant temperature, speed + odometer, engine rpm, alternator voltage, and exhaust gas temperature. (not pictured, to be placed elsewhere: boost pressure, dual battery voltages, engine oil temp, trans oil temp, transfer case oil temp, etc)


Fits nicely in the originals place, and with all the important data I could ever want, right up front:
 

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Love the videos and appreciate the super clean work. I'm looking to do the same level of quality on my 1995 f150 I'm about to start.
 

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I am loving that dash, I was skeptical at first as I love the D2 cluster but thats turned out really well!
 
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