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Discussion Starter #81
Overall height's been my main concern so far with the measurements I've made. It is surprisingly spacious without all sorts of extra bits like AC, emissions, cruise etc. But we'll see once the old pile is outta there. I'll try to fit it as low & back as I can manage, even though a part of me would grin like an idiot with the turbo & dump pipe right thru the hood :D

Also thinking I'll have a go at making the front "core support" removable (drill out spot welds, replace with bolts) to make the process much easier.
 

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That power steering can on you pump is not the one for the remote reservoir. The inlet pipe on the remote units is much smaller and often angled away from the engine. Have even seen some with the inlet on the back of the can. Make sure you have the angle support bracket on the vacuum pump. If you leave that off you'll be sure to have a broken pump. May have to create your own since the P pump mounting support my occupy the same hole needed for that brace. Here's a photo showing what a P pump power steering can looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
Man I get distracted easy...

The shop space a friend hooked me up with for the winter has been largely uninhabited for a loooong time, & so the clutter of random old farm mishmash has taken me days to organize to a level that doesn't give me a twitch every time I see it. But boy am I happy to have this vs my tiny carport!



Just yesterday I started the process to clear the way for evicting this busted old V8. Also trying to think of interesting ways to do so as I film the process... which led me to a conversation I've had a few times in the past: "So uh, if you hear an explosion from the shop today, or see fire for a second, don't uh, don't worry too much about that."

 

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Discussion Starter #85
Most everything's now cleared out of the way for pulling the old 4L V8. Felt good to chuck all the old V8 parts across the shop as I went. May have the old drivetrain out of there tomorrow unless I get carried away with the core support, can't wait!

Getting creative to get the big aluminum hood off:


Driveshafts & exhaust pipes out of the way:


Draining coolant is ALWAYS a mess! On my list to remedy with the radiator replacement:


Very close now, but need to poke around the radiator core support & see if it's worth drilling out spot welds & modifying it to become a bolt-in part:


And here a ~2min mashup of the parts flying:

 

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Discussion Starter #87
It's out! WOOHOO!

Hoisted out relatively easy, after I wrestled with the transfer case for hours:


Retired drivetrain in the foreground (gutless 8mpg 240ci V8 with common cracked block issue, & 4spd ZF slushbox), the newcomer lurking in the background:


Good riddance to bad rubbish!


Old setup & tunnel are shifted 2" drivers side. Going to take my time to get this thing setup dead straight:
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I was so damned focused on pulling the engine that the camera's battery crapped out halfway thru, but I put together what I had & tried to make up for the lost footage by throwing in some nonsense:

 

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Discussion Starter #89
Going to town on all the now excess electrics & plumbing is really therapeutic:

 

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Yeah, now the electrical sorting can begin. If the dash instruments are computer controlled, you may have to find a way to fool those. The engine is totally non computer. Guys with newer American vehicles have the same issues. A good wiring diagram can be your friend.
 

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I told you some wrong information on one of your youtube videos in that FJ60's would be great under you Landy, but in fact it should have been fj80 axles as they have both offset diffs and they are coil spring applications where as the fj60 and fj62 use leaf springs !
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Yeah, now the electrical sorting can begin. If the dash instruments are computer controlled, you may have to find a way to fool those. The engine is totally non computer. Guys with newer American vehicles have the same issues. A good wiring diagram can be your friend.
Yes! Looking forward to rewiring the whole rig. The brit's wiring is shoddy & needlessly complicated. She'll get a bunch of raychem, deutsch connectors, new gauges, circuit breakers instead of fuses, & a solar setup w/house battery if it doesn't hold me up too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
I told you some wrong information on one of your youtube videos in that FJ60's would be great under you Landy, but in fact it should have been fj80 axles as they have both offset diffs and they are coil spring applications where as the fj60 and fj62 use leaf springs !
Ohhhh, good to know! Built up Toyota axles would be cool (vs Ford9, 14bolt, dana60, etc) & I nice fit on a truck that's becoming a real patchwork of different stuff. Unimog's or other such portals would be badass but I'd bet parts a nightmare.

If I don't get bigger axles under it this coming season then I'll at least be building myself a custom 3-link front & 4-link rear I've been designing. These stock radius arms are just about pushed to their limit at this height.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Oh, and shame on me for nearly forgetting to capture the quintessential "celebrate in the engine bay" photo:

 

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Discussion Starter #95
Last week+ I've been hung up with one of a few sticking points that I was expecting to delay the swap along the way.

Sounds worse than it is, but there's interference between the vacuum pump, power-steering pump, starter, & drivers side engine mount. So far I've found a solution for everything except the starter being too close to the mount. Although I do think I have a fix for that in the form of a "clockable" gear-reduction starter.

At first I tried to pie-cut the power-steering fill neck to clear the timing pin of the injection pump:


Even so it was still too close to the injection pump & just kinda hack looking for my taste:


Not welding just yet though, better to wait & be sure it won't interfere with the steering. In this configuration, with the original hole in the reservoir cap'd off & the filler neck relocated lower, gives me a much better fit + angle, like so:


Started looking at off the shelf starters & not finding many option that won't require some modifying. Stock starter was only a 1/4" too long & needs rotating somehow to clear the 1st-gen center dodge mounts I'm trying here. I need to hit up Mean Green (or another suggestion?) to see if they can whip me up something I can "clock". This illustrates the tight quarters I'm looking to fit a starter into:


Next up... test fitting the engine & trans.

Can't wait to get a look at it all in there!
 

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Your idea of relocating the PS filler tube is OK. You better flush all the parts because I see a lot of metal particles there that could wreck the pump. Also, is that going to change the capacity of the pump since you'll have the tube shorter? Also, do you have the support brace for the PS pump? With those engine mounts, a starter might be a real chore to find. Very few guys use those mid mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Your idea of relocating the PS filler tube is OK. You better flush all the parts because I see a lot of metal particles there that could wreck the pump. Also, is that going to change the capacity of the pump since you'll have the tube shorter? Also, do you have the support brace for the PS pump? With those engine mounts, a starter might be a real chore to find. Very few guys use those mid mounts.
Oh yes it'll get a thorough cleaning to be sure the metal bits are cleared out.

Haven't had any luck finding the support that was meant for the PS pump, just planning to fabricate a bracket of some sort, unless I'm missing something about how to find one...?
 

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That support is just a simple piece of angle. You'll probably need to make your own anyway because the injection pump support is probably using the same holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Ah, okay cool. The only diagrams & pictures I could find looked that way, slightly bent bit of angle for the bracket.
 

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Popped the turbo off, it's the HX30W type. Pretty good shape, not much for any play in the rotating assembly. Still most likely going to pull the trigger on a "Super HX30", we'll see.
[iurl="http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=105369&stc=1&d=1508372121"]
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Once I popped off the manifold I noticed a difference in 1 of the 4 ports. They were relatively clean, just some soot, but the far rear port was kinda dirty. Nothing crazy, some dense sticky black globs just along the curve out of the head. Maybe any of the knowledgeable folks around here can confirm this is most likely the valve seal & not an injector issue...? Here's the culprit:
[iurl="http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=105377&stc=1&d=1508372134"]
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I really like the my hx30w. Put it in a 2500 Suburban and turned the VE pump up a bit
 
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