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Well my project has slowed to a crawl.. as the original plan was to mate the 4bt i have to the 700r4 I have in the 84 Chev 4x4 i have .. and as i was told the transmission would not hold up.. so I looked for a 47RH... without out much luck.. but I did score 2 47RE's both with some problems.. and both with Big Nasty Looking Bilitted Torque Converters.. The one I have the slip on is a Sonax Superior True triple disk... The New one I just got when i bought a parts 47RE appears to be a PATC Triple disk I just got home with and will examine in the light tomorrow.. so now where it gets technicle.. i have no good info on these converters.. The Sonax was supposedly in a running transmission that kept dropping out of 4th and Lock-up when it got warmed up.. I don't know if that damages the converter?.. the one tonight, someone thought enough of the converter to seal the inport very throughly.. and I have no knowledge of how to test.. or if they can be tested to find their viability... but I'm guessing the combined retail on them is well over the $2,500 range so i won't be chucking them in the scrap anythiny me soon.. .. so I am seeking knowledge on how to check them out.. if such knowledge exists... a notion if they go bad.. or if they are something I shouldn't worry about???? lots of questions ... no answers from this old guy.. any help would be Wonnerful Wonnerful.. and now Myron and the boys will play for you another lovely tune.. anna one anna two...
 

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Automatic transmissions are definitely not my area of knowledge. The 47RE is essentially the 47RH only computer controlled. The issues you mentioned could be torque converter related or computer related. From what little reading I've done, electrical issues can often be the fault.
 

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If you wanna know what shape a converter is in you have to cut it open. That's how they work.

Converters don't really have a hard life. If the frictions are bad you strip them off and re-laminate them. I have built converter clutch laminating presses and plates in the past. It's interesting stuff.

If a tranny pukes and turns clutches into cornflakes or it's filled with glitter then all that junk goes into the converter too. You gotta cut it open and get that crap out.

Unrelated to your questions, but I suggest you take extra care with converter stall speed if you are running a 4BT. A 4bt will stall 100+ RPM lower than a 6BT with same converter. A 4BT is an absolute turd without boost and doesn't make much boost below 2000 RPM. I have found that bone stock 47RH/RE 2000 RPM stall speed is perfect for a 4BT. Trouble is it's almost impossible to find that. Most Dodge converters have been modified to lower their stall speeds. People tend to think because the torque peaks at 1600 that's where you want the stall speed. Not true at all. You want the stall speed where the engine can effectively handle full throttle boost from a stoplight. The converter locks up at 45 MPH or so. 0-45 acceleration will suck with a stall speed that's too low.

Most trouble with 47RE's is related to governor pressure solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you wanna know what shape a converter is in you have to cut it open. That's how they work.

Converters don't really have a hard life. If the frictions are bad you strip them off and re-laminate them. I have built converter clutch laminating presses and plates in the past. It's interesting stuff.

If a tranny pukes and turns clutches into cornflakes or it's filled with glitter then all that junk goes into the converter too. You gotta cut it open and get that crap out.

Unrelated to your questions, but I suggest you take extra care with converter stall speed if you are running a 4BT. A 4bt will stall 100+ RPM lower than a 6BT with same converter. A 4BT is an absolute turd without boost and doesn't make much boost below 2000 RPM. I have found that bone stock 47RH/RE 2000 RPM stall speed is perfect for a 4BT. Trouble is it's almost impossible to find that. Most Dodge converters have been modified to lower their stall speeds. People tend to think because the torque peaks at 1600 that's where you want the stall speed. Not true at all. You want the stall speed where the engine can effectively handle full throttle boost from a stoplight. The converter locks up at 45 MPH or so. 0-45 acceleration will suck with a stall speed that's too low.

Most trouble with 47RE's is related to governor pressure solenoid.
Thank you very Much for the Reply: great Information... i have the ability to cut one open.. and to weld it shut.. but no ability to balance the thing... The one that Looks Like a triple Disk PATC according to PATC isn't but they tell me ...many companies use the same kits to assymble converters.. that one has a plug in the side.. now i know old converters used to have them 40 years ago.. but hadn't seen one on a new converter.. so i can drain that thru the plud ( which looks like an add one... I may get real friendly here in a month as 1st i need to rebuild a NV 4500 for my son's.. I think I can I think I canI think I can... but will be looking for advice etc.. when i try to build a 47re for myself.. unless I am lucky and my search finds the parts to convert a RE to an RH to eiminate some electronics.. I'm old and hate the stuff... Thanks again..
 

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Only way to weld them true is with a special machine designed for it. Any decent size city should have a converter rebuilder or 6 around. Without a converter welding machine it is impossible to set internal clearance and maintain alignment in all planes.
 
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