Liner Inspection Request, now 4bd2t Rebuild

More cleaning,



more painting,



and liners kits arrived, sleeves are at the machine shop with the block.

My apologies guy. im sometimes slow like you.. just asking if they are going to work without issues. I hope they do for you. Like being too loose in the hole and maybe hitting the cylinder head or what ever else could happen.

Can you trust the markings on the block to work basically. I understand measuring to verify fitment.

One guy i talked to said there was different diameter pistons but i dont think thats true. Just height difference (2 options from what ive read). but reading the manual says this. Picture below but says individual grades are not available, meaning one size in diameter correct?

As for liners different od sizes but same id sizes for the one size od pistons and rings makes sense. Cheers friend just trying to learn.

Another step forward.

Oil jets and check valves, cleaned and installed. Had to replace a broken jet, PN 8-97025462-1.



Next is the crankshaft says the manual.
Crank bearing and thrust washer kit PN 8-97071-662-0. Plenty of assembly lube was used.



Happy with the measured clearance.



Had to take the con rods to the machine shop and get the piston pin bushing reamed for correct clearance, but ring gaps measured proper so shouldn’t take long to slap together when they get back.

Pic of the manual I’m using and con rod PNs.



This is fun.

Tips or suggestions, I’m all ears. Definitely my first rodeo.

Manual says next is timing gear case, tappets, camshaft and idler gear (properly indexed please).

Having trouble wrapping my head around these piston oil rings. Could someone please advise what I need to do?

Working with OEM rings.

Without the spring the oil ring end gap is smack in the middle of the specs. with the spring I would need to remove a lot of material for the end gap to be within spec. Same deal all 4 oil rings I have, the compression rings have all been within spec.

Is that what I’m supposed to do?



Edit… is the spring there just to protect the oil ring during storage and should be removed for installation?






Thanks in advance.

joshuak said:

Having trouble wrapping my head around these piston oil rings. Could someone please advise what I need to do?

Working with OEM rings.

Without the spring the oil ring end gap is smack in the middle of the specs. with the spring I would need to remove a lot of material for the end gap to be within spec. Same deal all 4 oil rings I have, the compression rings have all been within spec.

Is that what I’m supposed to do?

View attachment 133796

….

Click to expand...

Apparently the spring goes inside the oil ring…



Two in…

Got the other two pistons in their respective holes, along with oil pump and oil cooler.



After installing the oil cooler cover I realized I was working myself into a corner paint wise. For some reason I thought I would assemble everything and then paint the block. Not ideal, so I cleaned off the outside of the block, taped up areas where paint was unwanted and went to town with 3 coats of duplicolor’s ceramic engine paint.



Since all but a few of the fasteners had surface rust on them, I chose to let them soak in phosphoric acid (concrete etch and prep), then wire wheel or brush and finally a coat of high temp black paint for the head.



I know that they came from the factory with a zinc coating of sorts and the acid removes what’s left, but living in the rust belt you do what you have to.

Not a fan of following a thread that suddenly goes dead, so wanted to share that I have a handshake agreement with an area builder for him to build 4 walls and a roof on my property for a future shop towards the end of summer. I would like to make this happen without incurring in debt, so other projects that require $ are temporarily on hold. Really looking forward to being out of the elements at home and not dependent on the work place amenities.

For now, it’s been coated.

DSL-LCruiser said:

I posted before I realized there was a second page to this thread. It appears everything is in order. Great work!

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Thank you for the kind words. Hoping to get back at it some point this Fall. Critical path is purchase a cylinder head, water and power steering pumps and get the IP rebuilt.

Bit of a side topic, but this and a nv4500 is going in my wife’s 60 series LC. Did either of your 4bd2t end up in a LC?

Only thing I’ve done to prepare for that next step is modify the oil pan. I may have to do it again, I really have no idea lol. Not pretty, but water tight.

Did either of your 4bd2t end up in a LC?

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Both of them ended up in 60 Land Cruisers. One with an NV4500, the other H55.Great choice on the NV4500. I will be interested in following your install. I haven't kept up with what adapters are available and installs the past few years. I'm still daily driving one of my 4BD2TJ60 Land Cruisers.

The NV4500 specific GL4 gear oil seems to disappearing from the supply chains. You might want to get some now before it disappears. It might show up as discontinued, but here is the latest AC-Delco part# 104119 (10-4119)

Your oil pan mod is good to go if you have a lift and your engine stays to rear of engine compartment. Your pan looks just like my pan on the first install. On my second install I positioned the engine more forward and only had a 2" lift. I had to take another notch out of the pan.

DSL-LCruiser said:

Both of them ended up in 60 Land Cruisers. One with an NV4500, the other H55…

View attachment 134009

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Ah man, that’s one clean looking engine bay. Looks factory. Very nice! That’s what I would like to strive for.

DSL-LCruiser said:

…Great choice on the NV4500. I will be interested in following your install. I haven't kept up with what adapters are available and installs the past few years. I'm still daily driving one of my 4BD2TJ60 Land Cruisers.

The NV4500 specific GL4 gear oil seems to disappearing from the supply chains. You might want to get some now before it disappears. It might show up as discontinued, but here is the latest AC-Delco part# 104119 (10-4119)

Click to expand...

I do hope you have a chance to follow along and I’m all ears to any words of wisdom you may have.

Adapter availability is one of the reasons I went with the NV4500, besides the fact that third pedals are fun. That I know of there are only two commercially available options on the market right now, QuickDraw has an adapter 4bdxt to tr 4050 and RoamerDrive has one for nv4500 (dodge or gm’96 and up).

I went with RoamerDrive’s. I’m using one over here and I’m happy with the quality. This time I also purchased the flywheel they offer that’s predrilled for a Dodge pressure plate and has a bushing for the Dodge pilot bearing.



And pic. from thread linked above…




Thanks for the heads up on the oil, I have two others in the driveway that need that magic sauce as well.

DSL-LCruiser said:

Your oil pan mod is good to go if you have a lift and your engine stays to rear of engine compartment. Your pan looks just like my pan on the first install. On my second install I positioned the engine more forward and only had a 2" lift. I had to take another notch out of the pan. View attachment 134010

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Hmmm… in that case I foresee more cutting in my future. I know it has some OME springs, but if it has any lift at all, it’s 2” and my wife is vertically challenged so don’t want to go higher.

This is her. Rock sliders are angled to serve more as steps than body armor.

Back at it.

Temporary motor mount brackets to get the engine off the stand. Attached the bellhousing and put some new heads on.