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looking to swap 6bta from a '92 d250 into a 1982 jeep wagoneer, any tips on this? thanks ~jeff
 

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At least a D60 front and rear. The rear in the Dodge is a D70. Also you will need springs to support the weight and the steering box. Also the tranny will have to be from the Dodge or you will have to come up with something to hold up behind it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At least a D60 front and rear. The rear in the Dodge is a D70. Also you will need springs to support the weight and the steering box. Also the tranny will have to be from the Dodge or you will have to come up with something to hold up behind it.
why a steering box?
 

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Its a tight fit but will work? just repowered a 79 J20. 92 6bt nv4500

I'd search around for a different exhaust manifold, my turbo took out my heater core....but with you being in FL you prob wont need heat much.

with out doing fire wall mods, you will loose the factory mech fan on the 6bt. perhaps a smaller diameter fan may fit but the big diameter dodge wouldnt fit in my case.

I plan to run an electric fan in the summer but right now in SC, the hottest it runs down the road is 180. It will climb to 210 if its already warm and sits and idles for more than 30 mins.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Its a tight fit but will work? just repowered a 79 J20. 92 6bt nv4500

I'd search around for a different exhaust manifold, my turbo took out my heater core....but with you being in FL you prob wont need heat much.

with out doing fire wall mods, you will loose the factory mech fan on the 6bt. perhaps a smaller diameter fan may fit but the big diameter dodge wouldnt fit in my case.

I plan to run an electric fan in the summer but right now in SC, the hottest it runs down the road is 180. It will climb to 210 if its already warm and sits and idles for more than 30 mins.

View attachment 1475

View attachment 1476
yes, i plan to loose the heater box aswell, do you have any good under hood pics of your set-up?
also, i do not intend to put any lift on the truck if i can avaiod it any way,shape or form...i HATE lifted trucks.
thanks ~jeff
 

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i can shoot some pics over via email? whats your addy?

you will probably at least have to some some tight of suspension lift so the oil pan can clear the fron axle.
 

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me too please

Hi Ive been planing the same swap. Im hunting axles right now. Do you Wheel Your SJ or only use it on the street? Did you reinforce the frame? Did you put any body lift?

I have been trying to decide between a 6bt or the 4bt. My goals are a daily driver that can be wheeled on the weekends, able to tow a trailer loaded with a vehicle or stuff from lowes. Able to drive 85+ mph long distance.

I have been thinking that if I go with the 6 I'll have to get a Matkins extreme 3 frame to handle the wt/tq while wheeling.

I thought the ISB 4bt would be a good compromise but dont know where to find one. Im trying to build this truck the way the factory should have. Im collecting all the parts to do a frame off resto/mod.

my email is [email protected] any pis & info is appreciated
 

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If you plan on wheeling it at all, sources say some kind of lift is going to have to be involved. You don't have to go crazy, from what I've read a 4" is plenty.

With the high speed desired, plan on gearing low or running a tall tire. I'm sure you've read that these engines have optimal fuel consumption in the 1700-1900 rpm range. You'll want to gear accordingly for that. I strongly suggest this site for figuring out your needs.

With the size of an SJ and your thoughts about towing, I'd strongly consider a 6bt. From the majority of input here the 4bt does great with large rigs but unless you're planning on tuning it up a bit (which would lower the fuel econ conversly), I wouldn't plan on towing another vehicle with it, or at least plan on towing that load while having a happy engine, haha.

If you really want to go through the computer wiring and cpu mounting and such, go for an ISB, otherwise stick with a 'B' series engine (4 or 6) and you'll have less wiring than the 360 that's taking up space right now.

I know it's not necessary, but boxing in the frame or going with a Matkins would be a stout foundation. Just remember, wherever you smother flex, you're transferring it somewhere else in the system. There's no way to really eliminate it. It needs to be absorbed somewhere.

You can have someone make a custom header that'll drop the turbo low enough in order to save the heater box, but you'll probably have to cut a box into the floorboards to compensate. Rather, if you're planning on doing a serious resto-mod, consider relocating the turbo to another location. I've contemplated pushing it into the battery location (I'm planning on a rear battery relocation). Or, like I saw once in an early bronco - flip the exhaust manifold (don't forget to rotate the turbo so the oil line is properly situated) and do some custom work to the hood - maybe a cowl-style or something. That'll position the turbo high enough to let the exhaust tubing route down between the box and the block.

Ok, enough babble.
I should stress that I have no personal experience with any of this. I'm still in the planning/measuring stages myself. I've just done boat loads of research already. Probably too much.
 

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I already have a BJs off road 6" lift & will probably do a soa when I find the Axles. I plan on running 40-42" wheels.I thought about moveing the turbo farther down the exhaust. I know theres a kit for the z06 that has the turbos all the way back behind the rear bumper cover. I really like the look & simplicity off the b motors, thought about the little isb cause the power.

I had been told that the 6 had to much torque for the factory frame. The same people say that the early dodges had the same problem & suffered from cracked frames?

My plan is to move the front axle forward 3inches, the rear back 6inches. Im getting two quarters for each side along with the dogleg panels so I can section them & make the wheelhouse look factory but with larger openings.

I want to put the 4550 or 5600 trans. 60front 60 or 14bolt rear disk on all 4 corners. the motor,trans & transfer case will be painted CAT yellow so when I pop the hood people will totally freak.

It will see more road then off road & wont be beaten. Im building this to be one of those vehicles that I keep. I do need the ability to tow cars from time to time as I am a bodyman by trade. Im also remodeling my house so need to move supplies. the worst it will see is a level three or four trail no crawling over boulders or bouncing against trees. do you wheel yours? have you had any issues with the frame?
 

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I've heard the same about the early P/Us frames - that's why I'd say handbox it and be done with it if you want to save money over the mail-order frame. The frame thickness is fine, just the C-channel is the weak spot.

I actually don't have one dropped between the rails just yet - still in planning stages. Just getting everything straightened out in a plan before I go headstrong into it.
 
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