I bought a 1996 Cummins 4BT off ebay a while back with plans to throw it into my 1978 Ford Bronco. While my brother was inspecting the engine, he noticed that my power steering pump didn't have a dipstick. The pump is a Saginaw style pump which should have a dipstick mounted on the top. However, it does not. I've tried looking for them all over the internet and nobody seems to sell them. Can anyone help?
Does you engine possibly have the P7100 injection pump? I think I see the pump brace in your photo. That power steering pump you have is designed for a remote reservoir. The reservoir would have the dip stick. A normal reservoir and dipstick won't fit the engine with the P7100. That massive injection pump gets in the way. There were several GM vehicles that have a similar style pump and you might check a salvage yard. The early Chevy Astro or GM Safari mini vans with hydroboost brakes might be a possible source. Other than that you might have to check a Freightliner dealer since they used those engines in some of their van. There are possibly some aftermarket reservoirs too.
Does you engine possibly have the P7100 injection pump? I think I see the pump brace in your photo. That power steering pump you have is designed for a remote reservoir. The reservoir would have the dip stick. A normal reservoir and dipstick won't fit the engine with the P7100. That massive injection pump gets in the way. There were several GM vehicles that have a similar style pump and you might check a salvage yard. The early Chevy Astro or GM Safari mini vans with hydroboost brakes might be a possible source. Other than that you might have to check a Freightliner dealer since they used those engines in some of their van. There are possibly some aftermarket reservoirs too.
On your comment about the possible power increase, the P7100 on those engines is a sleeping, fire breathing dragon. With minimal mods you can get to 200-250 HP. Upgrade the injectors and add a second turbo and 300 HP or more is easily in range. If you're thinking along those lines there would be other engine mods to consider, Basic mods to the pump would be change the governor spring set to 3000 RPM, change the torque plate to a #10, advance the pump timing to around 16 deg, and possibly replace the overflow valve. Adjust the turbo to allow for more boost to around 30 PSI or a tad more and hang onto your drawers because that beast will come to life. Then you have to start worrying about other drive train parts because you'll start having a lot of low end torque. Stock injectors are 5x.010 which are plenty for most single turbo operations. Would recommend pulling them and have them pop tested. If needed either rebuild or replace them, An upgraded injector would be the 5x.012. Not really necessary unless you plan on power in the 250 HP and up range. They were used on the 250 HP 4bt marine engine.
On your comment about the possible power increase, the P7100 on those engines is a sleeping, fire breathing dragon. With minimal mods you can get to 200-250 HP. Upgrade the injectors and add a second turbo and 300 HP or more is easily in range. If you're thinking along those lines there would be other engine mods to consider, Basic mods to the pump would be change the governor spring set to 3000 RPM, change the torque plate to a #10, advance the pump timing to around 16 deg, and possibly replace the overflow valve. Adjust the turbo to allow for more boost to around 30 PSI or a tad more and hang onto your drawers because that beast will come to life. Then you have to start worrying about other drive train parts because you'll start having a lot of low end torque. Stock injectors are 5x.010 which are plenty for most single turbo operations. Would recommend pulling them and have them pop tested. If needed either rebuild or replace them, An upgraded injector would be the 5x.012. Not really necessary unless you plan on power in the 250 HP and up range. They were used on the 250 HP 4bt marine engine.
Thanks for the awesome info! I was planning on changing the plate to a #10 and I already bought 3000/4000 rpm springs for the p pump governor. I also bought some heavy duty exhaust springs so I can hopefully install an exhaust brake. Don't want to mess to much with the timing/fuel injectors/turbo as I want to keep things fuel efficient and reliable. Depending on performance, I might be upgrading the fuel injectors.
I just need to find a reliable vendor for that stupid power steering pump lol!
Thanks again!
Thanks for the awesome info! I was planning on changing the plate to a #10 and I already bought 3000/4000 rpm springs for the p pump governor. I also bought some heavy duty exhaust springs so I can hopefully install an exhaust brake. Don't want to mess to much with the timing/fuel injectors/turbo as I want to keep things fuel efficient and reliable. Depending on performance, I might be upgrading the fuel injectors.
I just need to find a reliable vendor for that stupid power steering pump lol!
Thanks again!
That's one of the weird things about these engines. You can actually increase the power and fuel economy at the same time. Doesn't seem to make sense but what's happening is the engine efficiency is improving. The HD valve springs are a good idea. If an exhaust brake is in the plan they are a must. Kits often come with both the 3000 and 4000 RPM springs but it would be rare you should need 4000. Best fuel economy is in the 1700-2000 RPM range. You just need a bit above the stock 2500 RPM to help with gear shifts. Stock injectors and turbo should have no problem getting to 200 HP or a bit more. Like I mentioned, it's a good idea to have the injectors checked. When their pop pressure is closely matched the engine runs much better. Check the turbo for unusual play. Rebuild kits are not very expensive should it be needed. Your stock turbo is the HX30W with a 40mm inducer. Those turbos also come in 42, 44, and 46mm versions, If down the road a bit more performance was desired, the 44mm is identical in appearance to your stock model and would be an easy swap. The 46mm version is called the Super and some plumbing changes would be necessary, but nothing major. Don't know how much you plan to dig into the engine you have. It is often good to pull the oil pan and inspect the bottom end bearings, Replacements are not expensive. New rod bolts are supposed to be used when you do that. Since you are looking at efficiency, you could have the bearings coated by Polydyn in Texas. If you were going to tear it completely down, they also do special coatings for pistons, Just all kinds of small mods that can be done. Head studs are another good mod. One that could gain some more efficiency is having the turbine housing and exhaust manifold ceramic coated to keep the heat in. That isn't a very low budget mod. If you haven't already, need to install a pyro gauge sensor. Pyro and boost are two mandatory gauges.
Is this size reservoir enough capacity and volume for the power steering pump demand? Especially under hard steering? I don't want the reservoir to run dry if its under heavy demand.
That's one of the weird things about these engines. You can actually increase the power and fuel economy at the same time. Doesn't seem to make sense but what's happening is the engine efficiency is improving. The HD valve springs are a good idea. If an exhaust brake is in the plan they are a must. Kits often come with both the 3000 and 4000 RPM springs but it would be rare you should need 4000. Best fuel economy is in the 1700-2000 RPM range. You just need a bit above the stock 2500 RPM to help with gear shifts. Stock injectors and turbo should have no problem getting to 200 HP or a bit more. Like I mentioned, it's a good idea to have the injectors checked. When their pop pressure is closely matched the engine runs much better. Check the turbo for unusual play. Rebuild kits are not very expensive should it be needed. Your stock turbo is the HX30W with a 40mm inducer. Those turbos also come in 42, 44, and 46mm versions, If down the road a bit more performance was desired, the 44mm is identical in appearance to your stock model and would be an easy swap. The 46mm version is called the Super and some plumbing changes would be necessary, but nothing major. Don't know how much you plan to dig into the engine you have. It is often good to pull the oil pan and inspect the bottom end bearings, Replacements are not expensive. New rod bolts are supposed to be used when you do that. Since you are looking at efficiency, you could have the bearings coated by Polydyn in Texas. If you were going to tear it completely down, they also do special coatings for pistons, Just all kinds of small mods that can be done. Head studs are another good mod. One that could gain some more efficiency is having the turbine housing and exhaust manifold ceramic coated to keep the heat in. That isn't a very low budget mod. If you haven't already, need to install a pyro gauge sensor. Pyro and boost are two mandatory gauges.
Thanks for all the great info! Was going to have to remove the oil pan to avoid a cross beam in the Bronco and move the low point to the rear anyway. Figured while i was in there I would replace the oil pump as well. Guess I'll be doing a lot more in that area too. I really want to tear the engine apart and rebuild it completely but cost and time might prevent that. Anyway, thank you for everything!
Thanks for all the great info! Was going to have to remove the oil pan to avoid a cross beam in the Bronco and move the low point to the rear anyway. Figured while i was in there I would replace the oil pump as well. Guess I'll be doing a lot more in that area too. I really want to tear the engine apart and rebuild it completely but cost and time might prevent that. Anyway, thank you for everything!
I have a used powersteering /brake booster tank, came off of a freightliner MT35 van that would have had that engine /inj. pump in it, not sure where you are located, or how much shipping would be but we could check into that if you are interested
Is this size reservoir enough capacity and volume for the power steering pump demand? Especially under hard steering? I don't want the reservoir to run dry if its under heavy demand.
The standard can with cap mounted to the pump holds less fluid than the remote can setup does best part of remote is that it is exposed to less dust dirt & water.
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