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The hydroboost setup has been used on a lot of vehicles. On the Dodge, Ford and GM trucks there would be 2 return ports on the PS pump reservoir. There are even pumps for the remote reservoir that also have dual returns on the pump can. See photo. On the GM Astro vans that used the system, there was sometimes one return to the remote can and one to the can on the pump. On the Cummins delivery vans I believe both returns went to the remote reservoir. You just don't want the return fluid from the hydroboost unit traveling in the same line as the steering gear. Ford used hydroboost on some cars back in the 80's and quickly learned that was not a good thing. You don't want any back pressure on the line from the hydroboost. If your remote can only has one line, add a second port.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Well I decided to use the safari bracket and just modify it to fit better. I now need to figure out how the clutch master cylinder is supposed to mount then I plan to mount the PS reservoir next to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
I have a concern and would like your input for anyone who knows. I am in the process of connecting and plumbing my steering and hydro-boost. In doing so I realized my fluid reservoir has a 3/16 npt outlet, The 2 inlets are the same. But the power steering pump is a 3/4 inlet for the feed line. Is my pump going to be starving for fluid? The whole system is sealed, there is no vent. Im not sure if there will be a vacuum or a positive pressure in the tank to make it feed fast enough...
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Not really sure about that. Normally, the remote reservoir outlet is the same size as the pump reservoir inlet.Are you routing both returns back to the remote? Often see the steering gear return going to the pump can and the hydroboost to the remote. That's how it was on the Chevy Astro system and probably on the Cummins as well. Honestly don't think you want that small feed line to the pump. Hate to modify that pretty part but you don't want to starve the pump either. Here's a picture of a high end reservoir for hydroboost and you can clearly see the outlet port is much larger than the returns.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
This is what I have so far. I’m not really satisfied with my connections to the cooler but they are not -6 an like the rest of it. I was thinking if I got another bung or nut for the bottom of the Reservoir that would let me do 3/4 npt. And find someone to rig weld it.
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I agree on size, does one need that much cooling? I have seen some factory coolers for that purpose with about 12" of tube looped and mounted in the airstream.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #190
I agree on size, does one need that much cooling? I have seen some factory coolers for that purpose with about 12" of tube looped and mounted in the airstream.

Ed
It's more of "its what I have" I wanted something with a fan and I got it years ago. But at the same time I plan on running a ram assist at some point as well, and its gonna have 36" tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
Got the new Long arms on. But on this note I need advise about my coils... Im not sure what rate the coils are for the bronco, but I have read that the variable rate coils are just no good for my set up they just collapse and make a lot of noise. And unfortunately most of the articles for the coil set up are not really helpful to me. This is because people are talking about using 5.5 or 4.5 coil lifts and letting it settle down to match a 3.5 rear end lift. I have a 5.5 rear lift and I want the same up front. I remember a long time ago I was talking with Wild horses and they thought perhaps I should use full size bronco coils. However im unsure how those coil heights actually compare to early bronco coils. Meaning is a full size coil with a 4" lift the same as a early bronco coil with a 4" lift? And Wild Horses only have 4" lift coils for a full size and I want 5.5.
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I used hd WH 5.5 up front and WH 5.5 hd 11 leaf rears and vehicle sits perfectly level even going from 302 to 3.9 years later.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
So I installed the proper fuel supply line today and ohh man that woke the bugger up. But my idle is way to high and I’m not sure how to turn it down yet. It also smokes way bad. But the fitting I was using on the front of the injector pump did not fit the new fuel line. Luckily after a while I realized I had the other fitting adapter from when I purchased the injection pump. The old fitting has a tiny hole to feed the fuel through and it’s also a check valve.
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How thick is that IC? I used an NPR in front of rad. Plan on getting rid of it and running a 1st gen dodge ic in the same spot as yours. Even with the 1st gen ic, it looks as though grill nosecone may be close proximity. That one looks thicker. Run a temp gauge on that ps system, over cooling is as bad as over heating as far as tearing your pump up. I have 40s and an OX locker up front on D60s and dont run a cooler with a fan in 100+ temps.
 
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