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Discussion Starter #221
Not that I know of. I upgraded the fuel pin and spring but I haven't done anything other than lower the idle bolt on the outside. This was a supposedly rebuilt pump off ebay. After I bump the throttle and it stays up a little if I shit the engine off and restart it, its back to normal.
Onother thing with the rpms raising on their own. It seems very smooth and controlled not like a random thing
 

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Not sure if this would have anything to with your issue but the CAV pump uses different pressure rate injectors. The VE pump has more pressure and may be causing them to pop off incorrectly. Just a thought since I had the same setup as you do and had to change the injectors
 

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Discussion Starter #223
Not sure if this would have anything to with your issue but the CAV pump uses different pressure rate injectors. The VE pump has more pressure and may be causing them to pop off incorrectly. Just a thought since I had the same setup as you do and had to change the injectors
Well at some point I planned on upgrading those anyway I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #224
It’s always two steps forward and one and a half back. In fitting my fender I realized the way I have the intercooler was not gonna work. And I was going to have to butcher the whole front end to get it to work. So this is my current attempt at getting everything set with the plan of putting a condenser between the use in the future.
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Discussion Starter #225
Got a generic temperature sensor flock. It was 18 NPT and I had to tap it out to 14 x 1.5. This will have a dual speed temperature switch from a BMW with temperature ranges at 195/210. I have to use this switch because the Volvo fan is set up to use grounds
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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
Well it seems like it always 2 steps forward and at least one back. I have to figure out how to get clearance for my fan. It hits the old fan pulley. I don’t need that pulley anymore except I can see a way to get a new belt setup. I can’t raise the alternator anymore because of my air intake. I really like the look of the high mount ac setup, but that won’t work #3930822. So I’m gonna try and relocate the fan pulley with a new support bracket that moves it down and to the left “right if looking directly at the motor”. I also am gonna give a new thermostat housing a try #3925474 because the radiator hose on the old style hits the hood. And I would also love to get this other style of inlet except it’s way expensive. But would make it so much easier to connect to the radiator without some crazy setup of hoses. But other than that I decided to throw a engine harness together inspired by bullford82 on YouTube. This one will be for KSB, fuel, oil, temp and tach. Unless I screwed that up as well.😭 Also gonna install my dual speed fan switch into the thermostat housing and I have a 300A solenoid to run the grid heater with a momentary switch. I got that idea from a marine 4BT. Next challenge is getting all that to work and figuring out what to do about the belt tensioner.

Lower Water Inlet for Cummins 4bt 6bt B-Series Coolant Radiator Outlet Neck NEW | eBay

Request for Pics and info- Deleting mechanical fan and... This is the way im gonna try and install the fan pulley. I THINK it sould move it out of the way enough for my fan to clear.

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On the fan hub, there are a couple of possible solutions. Cummins had a lot of hubs for the B series engines. One possible is the high mount industrial hub which mounts to the head. Can be mounted high or low by rotating it. Also requires the industrial pulley since the bolt pattern is larger. That one is part 3933436 and the pulley is 3914461. See drawing below. That is a very HD unit with 2 ball bearings on the shaft instead of one on the regular hubs. Another option would be the fan hub from the '91.5-93 Dodge Cummins. That one places the fan in the center of the block and has about 1" more clearance. See photos below. That fan hub is part 3923004 (old number 3921689) and you'll find them priced from around $400-650. OUCH! The pulley is part 3917674 which is just as scarce as the hub. Haven't found one listed lately.
 

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Discussion Starter #230
On the fan hub, there are a couple of possible solutions. Cummins had a lot of hubs for the B series engines. One possible is the high mount industrial hub which mounts to the head. Can be mounted high or low by rotating it. Also requires the industrial pulley since the bolt pattern is larger. That one is part 3933436 and the pulley is 3914461. See drawing below. That is a very HD unit with 2 ball bearings on the shaft instead of one on the regular hubs. Another option would be the fan hub from the '91.5-93 Dodge Cummins. That one places the fan in the center of the block and has about 1" more clearance. See photos below. That fan hub is part 3923004 (old number 3921689) and you'll find them priced from around $400-650. OUCH! The pulley is part 3917674 which is just as scarce as the hub. Haven't found one listed lately.
So I have the HD unit. If I flip it upside down it will clear but not with the thermostat housing I have coming.
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Yes, I see the problem. You're planning to use the Dodge thermostat elbow that points across to the driver's side like in the photo below. That industrial hub you have only works with either the forward facing or top facing thermostat housings. The only fan hubs that will clear your new housing is either the 3933436 hub from the '91.5-93 Dodge or lower mount type found on '94 up Dodge or 4bt road engines. That second type probably won't clear the fan so that sort of means that expensive one is about the only option. If you need a measurement of the front to back depth for 3933436 I have one on my workbench. From what I see with your fan it's going to be very tight. Is the back of that fan motor in the center of the block or offset toward the driver's side? I know the fan pulley is at least as thick as the water pump pulley with the threaded part that sticks out to attach a fan. Might have to machine that off to even get it to clear. Main issue is that creature is just horribly expensive. Unless you could find a Dodge dealer who might have one of those collecting dust on the shelf and wants rid of it, there aren't many other options. The last used one I saw sold for around $300 with the pulley. There may be another possible cheap fix. There was a grooved idler pulley on the common rail engines that might work since you don't need to attach a fan to it. It mount with a single bolt. You'd have to make the stud for it but that's no biggie. Eggman mad one for me on another project. I have a couple of those lying around here somewhere. Below is a photo showing that pulley mounted on a fan hub. It's the smaller one on the left.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
Yes, I see the problem. You're planning to use the Dodge thermostat elbow that points across to the driver's side like in the photo below. That industrial hub you have only works with either the forward facing or top facing thermostat housings. The only fan hubs that will clear your new housing is either the 3933436 hub from the '91.5-93 Dodge or lower mount type found on '94 up Dodge or 4bt road engines. That second type probably won't clear the fan so that sort of means that expensive one is about the only option. If you need a measurement of the front to back depth for 3933436 I have one on my workbench. From what I see with your fan it's going to be very tight. Is the back of that fan motor in the center of the block or offset toward the driver's side? I know the fan pulley is at least as thick as the water pump pulley with the threaded part that sticks out to attach a fan. Might have to machine that off to even get it to clear. Main issue is that creature is just horribly expensive. Unless you could find a Dodge dealer who might have one of those collecting dust on the shelf and wants rid of it, there aren't many other options. The last used one I saw sold for around $300 with the pulley. There may be another possible cheap fix. There was a grooved idler pulley on the common rail engines that might work since you don't need to attach a fan to it. It mount with a single bolt. You'd have to make the stud for it but that's no biggie. Eggman mad one for me on another project. I have a couple of those lying around here somewhere. Below is a photo showing that pulley mounted on a fan hub. It's the smaller one on the left.
That is the fan mounted to the radiator and in about the place it will be. I posted a link to that other guys page but I was hoping to use this pulley. I think it will be down and out of the way enough.
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That fan hub assembly is the standard 4bt mount which has the pulley offset to the driver's side. Wasn't sure it that pulley would clear your fan. The nose sticks out quite a bit. In fact, I believe you'll find the pulley nose sticks out the exact same distance as that industrial hub you have. I had a measurement I'd taken years ago for another project and that pulley measures 2-13/16" on the back side so It's roughly 3" counting the thickness of the pulley metal plus you'd have the thickness of the bolt heads sticking out. There were 2 versions of the 4bt hub of that style. The standard one we see on road engines has four 8mm bolts in a 50mm circle in the hub and is part 3911202 and uses pulley 3914463. The industrial version has four 10mm bolts in a 60mm circle which is part 3911203 and uses pulley 3929269. The '94 up Dodge fan hub is the same thickness except it would have that threaded end sticking out for attaching a fan clutch and a different 6 bolt pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Well I really didn’t feel like pulling everything apart to put the probe on the bottom side of the manifold. So I picked a relatively flat spot that looked like it was gonna get hit by the back two cylinders. I used a magnet to get any filings out that I could. Also glad to confirm that this type of socket will hold square bits or plugs. Worked great for the 1/8
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Nothing wrong with the probe location. Don't need to be too concerned with the little bits of metal that may be in the manifold. When you start it up any flakes will be swept out by the exhaust and they shouldn't do any harm to the turbine since it is barely moving at that point. Although most put the sensor up near the turbo, I've also seen it in the manifold runner coming from the back cylinder. That is the hottest one. Cummins actually recommends putting the sensor in the exhaust pipe after the turbo in case the probe should fail. Main issue there is you have to remember there's about a 200 deg F difference in reading in pre turbo and post turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
Nothing wrong with the probe location. Don't need to be too concerned with the little bits of metal that may be in the manifold. When you start it up any flakes will be swept out by the exhaust and they shouldn't do any harm to the turbine since it is barely moving at that point. Although most put the sensor up near the turbo, I've also seen it in the manifold runner coming from the back cylinder. That is the hottest one. Cummins actually recommends putting the sensor in the exhaust pipe after the turbo in case the probe should fail. Main issue there is you have to remember there's about a 200 deg F difference in reading in pre turbo and post turbo.
My down pipe right off the turbo actually has a 1/4 plug but with a bushing there it would have been tight clearance and I’d like to put a heat shield there.
 

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Discussion Starter #237 (Edited)
Yes, I see the problem. You're planning to use the Dodge thermostat elbow that points across to the driver's side like in the photo below.
So I was looking at it last night. With that new thermostat bracket I don’t think my 22SI is gonna hook up to it. Like it’s out of alignment. Am I gonna have to build a special bracket or is there a proper one? Like that black shield looking thing I've been seeing.
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Discussion Starter #238
So I definitely would have preferred to put the temp sensor on top but the switch just was not gonna fit behind the ALT. There is a small 1/4 plug on top of the thermostat that I could tap out to 3/8 but idk if it would be good to have the temp sensor after the thermostat. This temp sensor is original to the bronco so I figured my gauge would work correctly with it.
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That bracket wasn't intended for use with the 22si. Is the bolt hole for the long bolt even the same ID? I know the 22si uses a 12mm bolt for the long one an 1/2" for the short one. May have to do some mod to work that out. Is that you temp gauge sensor beside the water pump? If so, you might want to move it to a different location. That port is cold water which was used to feed an air compressor or aftercooler. Might not give a good reading. I assume the one up top is your fan control. Probably the better locations would be to have the temp gauge sensor up top and move the fan control to the port on the driver's side of the head near the back. That is the hottest point on the engine since it's at the #4 cylinder. Here's a photo that shows that port being used for the discharge for an air compressor. With the sensor up front that rear cylinder is going to be hotter than the preset for the fan to turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #240
I have a ksb switch back there and I would love to have the temp sensor there. What do you think is I tapped the thermostat neck for the temp sensor? Not sure because of the thermostat itself. So I have ksb, fan switch and a temp sensor. I’m using the metal coolant lines from a 12v so the 2nd port on top is going to one of those. The ID of that new bracket is definitely smaller than the 22SI. I I guess I’ll just plan on building a custom bracket.
 
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