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Spring looks about right in pic. Even a 366 seems to defuel around 2.9-3k. Not going to know much without a tach. I use a Tiny tach. Cheap and accurate. A hint if you increase your full power screw. Take the jam nut off the back and put it up front, easier to loosen for adjusting. And have a 2x6 handy just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
So I think I’m giving up on timing the motor for an hour because I got to a point where it will start great. But it runs like ****, it pops and backfires a little bit. Onto the next subject I’m gonna do some more research on this but does anybody have any recommendations for what I do about the situation?
 

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In that photo, you have a couple of issues creating the situation. #1, that is an industrial manifold designed to be in the reversed position of what you have it. Turbo would be top mounted up front. Although it looks similar to the rear drop manifold, it puts the turbo in more forward position. Not even sure it would clear with a horizontal filter mount. That couple inches of forward placement just won't work in that low position. Cures? Change the exhaust manifold to one of 3 possibles. The stock manifold in photo #3, a cut down 6bt manifold in photo #1 (maybe your best option), or a low mount type that swings the turbo out from the block more as in photo #2 (won't guarantee that one will clear without trial). Second option go with a remote oil filter. That option can prove a bit pricey depending on which one you use. I can provide you with the Cummins part #'s for that if you need it. Pricey part can be the darn hoses and fittings depending on what grade you use. I created one that might have come in under $1000 LOL. It was a no holds barred approach. Is your turbo the stock H1C? For some reason it looks a bit longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
In that photo, you have a couple of issues creating the situation. #1, that is an industrial manifold designed to be in the reversed position of what you have it. Turbo would be top mounted up front. Although it looks similar to the rear drop manifold, it puts the turbo in more forward position. Not even sure it would clear with a horizontal filter mount. That couple inches of forward placement just won't work in that low position. Cures? Change the exhaust manifold to one of 3 possibles. The stock manifold in photo #3, a cut down 6bt manifold in photo #1 (maybe your best option), or a low mount type that swings the turbo out from the block more as in photo #2 (won't guarantee that one will clear without trial). Second option go with a remote oil filter. That option can prove a bit pricey depending on which one you use. I can provide you with the Cummins part #'s for that if you need it. Pricey part can be the darn hoses and fittings depending on what grade you use. I created one that might have come in under $1000 LOL. It was a no holds barred approach. Is your turbo the stock H1C? For some reason it looks a bit longer.
Great info as always. I have entertained the idea of using a 6BT manifold before so I bet that's the way I go.
 

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You sort of gain 2 ways with the 6bt manifold. Puts the turbo farther forward for more firewall clearance and swings it away from the block to clear the oil filter. Could also be useful should you change to an HX30W turbo since those are about 1.5" longer due to the wastegate. That cast exhaust elbow you have is a nice item. Was originally for a vertical muffler on industrial equipment. Kind of pricey too if you go out to buy one. Like I mentioned, the low rear manifold with the swing out may work too. I have one of those but no engine to bolt it to for checking how far it pushes turbo outward. There was another manifold I didn't mention. It is the top center mount. That one is found on lots of industrial applications and was used on 4bt's in Ford E350 vans. The only issue with it may be hood clearance. Here's what it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Well I ordered the exhaust manifold online but it’s gonna take three months for me to get it. Because apparently the guy was out on a business trip so by the end of this month he should ship it hopefully. I ordered it right after my last question about my manifold. Kind of just waiting to button up the motor a little bit and then I’m gonna start putting the body back on. Until then I modified my air intake and got the grid heater mounted. I just have to figure out how to wire it later. I want to do a momentary button for it and have it only power up with the key in the on position not accessory. My plan is to put in some sort of relay fuse box in the engine bay somewhere that is separate and for all accessories such as lights and the winch. I did go buy a carbide bit and clean up this whole little bit better. You can see on one part I slept with the plasma cutter because sparks were flying in my face and it didn’t feel that great.
 

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The wiring of the grid heater is not extremely complicated, but requires some heavy duty wiring. Be nice if you could pick up a wiring harness from the Dodge since it would have most of what you need. There are 2 relays needed for the heater which are very heavy duty. The main wiring from the relays to the battery has fusible links, not fuses or circuit breakers. Then you have a second set of wires leading from the relays to the 2 heater plates. The final piece of the puzzle is a pair of trigger wires for the relays. Those can be attached to a push button switch or temporary on toggle switch with a 12 volt source. The only time you really might need the heaters is in very cold weather. I may have one of the wiring sets in my misc parts. I'll look.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
I think a while back i saw someone using a powerstroke glow plug relay. I think I have one lying around from my 97.
 

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That glow plug relay may do fine but you may or may not need 2 of them. Those heater grids pull a lot of juice. I believe later model Dodges went to a single relay. Seems like the idea of dual relays was the system could activate one or both plates depending on how cold it was. Those were actually more of a smog control than a starting aid except in very cold weather. Most any temp 20 deg or above they aren't needed. Cummins has offered several other starting aids beside the grid heater. Starting fluid systems were offered on industrial engines. Another was the thermostart which uses far less current than the grid heater. Those were common on many brands of farm and industrial engines including Cummins.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
The temps here in central Utah and Idaho very often go below 20 more towards 0 or even as low as -20. Not all the time obviously but often enough. My thought on it is just those really cold morning or if i were out winter camping and not anywhere near help. The idea of starting fluid makes me cringe and I don't know anything about the thermostart. And my preferred method is to just use a block heater but that's only in an ideal situation.
 

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Starting fluid often has a bad reputation because people don't know how to use it. It's one of those situations where less is better. Just a small squirt is normally all that's needed. Case industrial units that had the 4bt sometimes had that system. It was a pretty expensive system. The thermostart is a small heating coil with a fuel line attached. When activated the coil heats up and opens the fuel valve creating a fire in the intake chamber. Sounds kind of weird but they work very well and are very cheap. The little auxiliary fuel tank is plumbed in the injector return line. The whole system can probably be done for under $100. They use far less battery power than the grid heaters. Many farm tractors have had those systems. Here's a short video showing how one works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeDvCVS38hk
 

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Maybe what I was taught 25-odd years ago is out of date, but what I was taught was to NEVER use Starting Fluid on a diesel. Instead use WD-40. The propellant and 'oil' combo has been enough to get every diesel started that I've needed it for. Which to be honest isn't very many.

A company I worked for early this century did an interesting experiment. Used a Variac and Ni-Chrome tubing to heat diesel fuel. Once they got it figured out a low pressure pump was all that was needed for the company to pay to have every car in the parking lot detailed. OOPS!!!! They got the droplet size well under 10 microns without high pressure, could have been really bad.

My EB was stretched by the PO to a 130" WB. I'm currently stalled in the middle of an NV4500-Atlas 3.0 swap. Been thinking to go diesel, figure that I need about 200 HP and 400 ft-lbs from a bone stock mechanical engine. Don't need a hot-rod bomb. So far the only candidate that does that is a 6.5tD, but I could be talked out of that for the right engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Well I don’t have an arc welder so I couldn’t do cast iron rod. But I saw someone do this with brazing rod so I thought I’d give it a shot. Gotta let it cool down and I’ll smooth it up a bit and paint it.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Maybe what I was taught 25-odd years ago is out of date, but what I was taught was to NEVER use Starting Fluid on a diesel. Instead use WD-40. The propellant and 'oil' combo has been enough to get every diesel started that I've needed it for. Which to be honest isn't very many.

A company I worked for early this century did an interesting experiment. Used a Variac and Ni-Chrome tubing to heat diesel fuel. Once they got it figured out a low pressure pump was all that was needed for the company to pay to have every car in the parking lot detailed. OOPS!!!! They got the droplet size well under 10 microns without high pressure, could have been really bad.

My EB was stretched by the PO to a 130" WB. I'm currently stalled in the middle of an NV4500-Atlas 3.0 swap. Been thinking to go diesel, figure that I need about 200 HP and 400 ft-lbs from a bone stock mechanical engine. Don't need a hot-rod bomb. So far the only candidate that does that is a 6.5tD, but I could be talked out of that for the right engine.
I plan on pushing this engine to 200-250 and see how I like it and what kind of fuel economy it will get like that.
 

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Ntsqd, modern starting fluid is typically not what is was 25 years ago. Back then it was mostly ether with a bit of oil added. Now is usually a different formula that is less harsh on engines.
 

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Path for the turbo oil feed got quite a bit shorter didn't it. May have to make yourself a custom hose for that. Not sure what other guys have used.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Does anybody know of a company that I can call or get in touch with online to make a custom oil supply line for that turbo? I don’t know what size the fittings are. And the closest that I can source locally is a company wanting to cut off my old fittings and braze them onto a new line. One problem with that is the one fitting that’s past 90° I need the fitting to be 90°.
 
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