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Discussion Starter #161
Well It started with me not wanting to pay $40 for the through bolts that Cummins has. Then it also turns out that this 22SI is threaded in SAE. So I went to tractor supply spent five bucks got the hardware, had to drill out the top bracket just a hair to fit the half inch bolt and Wala. Now a pulley.
 

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Yes, that series of alternators is one of the few places you find a non metric bolt on a Cummins. I believe the Cummins spec is for a M12 x 150 mm long bolt, but a 1/2" is a heck of lot cheaper. Seem like the bolt that is threaded in the alternator is 1/2"x 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Yes, that series of alternators is one of the few places you find a non metric bolt on a Cummins. I believe the Cummins spec is for a M12 x 150 mm long bolt, but a 1/2" is a heck of lot cheaper. Seem like the bolt that is threaded in the alternator is 1/2"x 1.
yeah the little bolt on the bottom was about that size. I got 2 different ones just to see what fit better. I put a lock washer on the bottom bolt, the top has a flanged nut that is crimped like a locknut. I also ordered a pulley with a different Part# than provided. It was way cheaper. The one provides seemed to have a key slot “but not all of them”. I ordered an 8 grove pulley that said it fits 22 and 27si I believe.
 

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The one thing you have to be aware of on the alternator pulley is there are some different offsets depending on what engine they were used on. Also, they come in different diameters. The pulley that shows in my industrial catalog is Cummins 3918275 which is around $120. LOL. There are aftermarket parts which are $35 which is more in the area of sanity.
 

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It's interesting, your belt setup is exactly the same one in my Cummins industrial catalog. Same fan hub, tensioner, etc. It's interesting you needed a longer belt. Cummins show the belt part # 3911560 which is Gates 8PK1400ES and measures 1400mm or 55". Wonder where your's got longer? I know your top alternator mount is the same. The only place I could think of would be the lower brace which is supposed to be around 4".
 

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The old belt was 54” this one is 57”.
I`m not concerned about your belt, but am concerned about your fan blade. that one appears to be for a reverse rotation set up. if your fan turns clock wise when viewed from the front your fan will NOT pull air through the radiator. the leading edge of the blades MUST face the same way the fan turns. the leading edge of your fan face to the left so it is designed to turn counter clock wise. open a hood on another vehicle and see witch way the fan turns and see where the leading edge of the blades face. I`m trying to prevent you from having an over heating problem when you start driving the bronco.
 

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I hadn't noticed that fan pitch being reversed but believe you're correct. Cummins has a direct drive fan part # 3912753 for that hub which is listed as a sucker. Not sure it would be small enough though. It measures 22" in diameter. It's a 10 blade plastic type. That fan also has a Borg Warner part # 4735-38449-06 or just 38449-06 as well as a Volvo part # 1938279. No real issue in running a direct drive fan but in the winter time you may have to block off the radiator to get any heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
The old belt was 54” this one is 57”.
I`m not concerned about your belt, but am concerned about your fan blade. that one appears to be for a reverse rotation set up. if your fan turns clock wise when viewed from the front your fan will NOT pull air through the radiator. the leading edge of the blades MUST face the same way the fan turns. the leading edge of your fan face to the left so it is designed to turn counter clock wise. open a hood on another vehicle and see witch way the fan turns and see where the leading edge of the blades face. I`m trying to prevent you from having an over heating problem when you start driving the bronco.
So that direction my fan is pulling air. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a backwards Fan because it came out of a generator. However all of this aside I’m pretty sure I’m gonna go with electric fans for clearance issues and create less drag.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
I hadn't noticed that fan pitch being reversed but believe you're correct. Cummins has a direct drive fan part # 3912753 for that hub which is listed as a sucker. Not sure it would be small enough though. It measures 22" in diameter. It's a 10 blade plastic type. That fan also has a Borg Warner part # 4735-38449-06 or just 38449-06 as well as a Volvo part # 1938279. No real issue in running a direct drive fan but in the winter time you may have to block off the radiator to get any heat.
I’ll be switching to electric. But when I was stationed in AK I actually had a front cover made for it.
 

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Yeah, a generator fan would probably be a pusher like you have. With those you want to push the heat out of the enclosure. Nothing wrong with electrics. Most guys who run them seldom have them come on.
 

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Discussion Starter #173
Just figured since I don't have a fan shroud anyways and I have a nice new radiator from wild horses. Id just try and save for a fan set up, inter-cooler, and a condenser.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
Dose anyone happen to know much about the NP205? I have been trying to figure out what gears I need for the speedometer. But I just don't have much knowledge is this area. From what I have gathered assuming I have my info right, I think my drive gear is a 7 tooth and according to that with my gear ratio and tires I need a 15 tooth driven gear. But they don't make them that small. What im wondering is can I switch out my drive gear for an 8 tooth and the driven to a 17? Or will I have a problem with the gears meshing? If anyone was wondering i have 33" right now and the axle is 3.50.
 

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Discussion Starter #177
So any thoughts on this? I can't find a diagram incorporating a Remote Reservoir. So I took a guess how it should be. The other option was to T the brake return in after the cooler. 2012-11-30_195413_hydroboost_pump_with_two_return_ports.gif
 

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You don't want to T the return from the hydroboost unit. It can cause your brakes to hang on. Hydroboost can be a bit touchy in that respect. There should be a dedicated return to the reservoir for it. Also, there should be a filter in the return from the steering gear if there isn't one built into the PS pump. Again, hydroboost units do not like dirt of any kind. You can find an inline filter from a Ford diesel that had hydroboost.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
You don't want to T the return from the hydroboost unit. It can cause your brakes to hang on. Hydroboost can be a bit touchy in that respect. There should be a dedicated return to the reservoir for it. Also, there should be a filter in the return from the steering gear if there isn't one built into the PS pump. Again, hydroboost units do not like dirt of any kind. You can find an inline filter from a Ford diesel that had hydroboost.
Im not sure how to do it. There is no available port to return the cooler and the booster separately.
 

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http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pdf/tech/install/full_hydraulic_front_hydroboost.pdf

This might help, take the low pressure return on the hydro boost out of the cooler. All heat is through the high pressure lines that feed into the steering box then go to the cooler. If you don’t have multiple ports on your remote reservoir then put the T in as close to the reservoir as possible.

For best performance on the unit would be a three port reservoir in my opinion though.
 
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