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The bolts could have stretched...
 

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I never touched the head bolts , I haven’t done anything with the head besides injection pump , timing , fuel pin , gov spring , injectors , so it’s a surprise they would be loose. One thing I did notice is when pulling the bolts the back head bolts were dry and the rest had oil
well that brings in several questions... if the head gasket was changed before... it could mean they didn't tap out the bolt holes in the back ( which means they were likely not to correct torque... the oil on the bolts says they changed that gasket recently... but it should have been in all holes... which again mean they like lt didn't torque properly the 2 back bolts... and there there is the thought the head is warped... have it checked for plane ( level) as well as cracks.. was it possible there was a small part of the gasket wedged back there when the head was installed.. meaning the head couldn't torque correctly... then worse case... put some oil in the back 2 holes that were dry.... and screw the bolts in slowly but not forcefully... because the worst cace scenario is they over oiled the back holes when the bolts were put in and they hydraulic press cracked the block ( you didn't want to know that... its rare but i have seen it on other engines).. and the oil should disappear if you screw the bold in and they lose hydraulic lock..
 

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As Subrutus said, check head bolts with stretch gauge.
 
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Usually, with head bolt they often tap the holes to clean them but it is a good practice. If you do studs, you need to use a bottoming tap that threads down to the bottom of the hole. Also with studs the is a special lube that comes with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So turns out , my head is cracked in cylinder 1 and 2 also, getting kinda ridiculous…. Thought these things were supposed to be reliable haha. Anyone know where to source a good new 4BT Head ? CPL857 aftercooled.
 

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I wouldn't think you need a special head for a after cooled motor (air to water?) I have seen guys add and remove the cooler units and see them listed for sale as a stand alone... the only air to water motor I have owned and worked on was a cummins big cam 400, sorry not much help... I did however check out the after market head at jegs and it looks like there is a part # cast into the head, you could check for parts compatibility with your old head, it looks like a decent deal to me rather than trying a used head and having it fluxed (could be cracked also!) and then a valve job... I bought my motor from a guy who had it rebuilt in 21 and the paperwork showed a new head added to the parts list for, $600 so the jegs price is probably around what you would expect to pay...
 

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That is a decent price for the head, install with studs and you are good to go...
 

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One question you need to think on. What size are your injector tips? Old heads has 9mm injector tips and those were known to crack. Cummins changed injector tips to 7mm in the early '90's and the problem went away. As far as I know, all new heads are 7mm but if your injectors are 9mm they aren't going to fit. You'll either have to change your tips to 7mm or get new injectors. Cummins doesn't even sell 9mm injectors anymore. They provide 7mm units and a 2mm sleeve to make them fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
They’re 7
One question you need to think on. What size are your injector tips? Old heads has 9mm injector tips and those were known to crack. Cummins changed injector tips to 7mm in the early '90's and the problem went away. As far as I know, all new heads are 7mm but if your injectors are 9mm they aren't going to fit. You'll either have to change your tips to 7mm or get new injectors. Cummins doesn't even sell 9mm injectors anymore. They provide 7mm units and a 2mm sleeve to make them fit.
They’re 7mm , 9745 is the part number on the tip. I measured them.
 

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There was something that bothered me about that head gasket. There are normally metal tabs the join the rings to seal the cylinders. Also metal down one side and on the corner. Here's a good video showing a good quality and a really crappy head gasket.
Audio equipment Rectangle Automotive lighting Circle Musical instrument
 

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Looks like I’ll go with the promaxx head. Just didn’t wanna buy Chinese junk !!
Chinese junk, is a commonly used phrase, however not quite true, in most cases relating to Cummins parts...
Political types and the mainstream news are bashing the CHICOMS these days, not unlike how the Japanese were bashed for sometime after WW-2...but notice their producing quality products and parts, while America has fallen way, way behind in this area.
Buying American made is not what it used too be, since parts from around the globe are in your American vehicles and most other products....end of rant.
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well regardless , I ordered the promaxx head, ARP headstuds from diesel tuff , super HX30W turbo , and a OEM Cummins gasket. And am now converting to NON IC (temporarily) instead of JWAIC… til I can save up enough to IC it ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Need to save up for that intercooler real quick. At any kind of serious boost level your intake temp is going to be in the 300-400 deg F range. EGT's will range higher than normal too.
I was hoping running it non IC with the super 30 would actually lower EGTs.. since it’s not getting 180* air from the coolant
 
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