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I was hoping running it non IC with the super 30 would actually lower EGTs.. since it’s not getting 180* air from the coolant
Well it should as long as your fueling is fairly modest, I'd bet that it will be better power for the same EGT that your previous set up and with the IC WAY better...$.02
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Hopefully running it NON IC , with slightly larger injectors, Super HX30W, larger air filter setup , regeared ( 10% OD in the tcase) that she will run cooler than before with the restrictive annoying JWAIC, I am hoping to run it non ic atleast for a while til I can save up some coin to buy a intercooler kit like this

 
I was hoping running it non IC with the super 30 would actually lower EGTs.. since it’s not getting 180* air from the coolant
What cm is the super 30 exhaust housing?
 
Unless you have lots of room up front, have to start from scratch on the front end when you decide to put i’cooler in, might want to at least mock it up while apart and get engine set back, lower crossmember, doghouse built, etc., while all apart!

Ed in CO
Setting engine as far back and as low as possible will have many benefits before all is said and done...$.02
 
No, that's not how it would work. With the aftercooler the air is cooled down to that point or a bit lower. The cooled water coming into the aftercooler is coming direct from the radiator which is lower than 180 deg which is the internal engine water temp. If you were running a separate radiator on the aftercooler it would be even more efficient. The heat exchanger mounted on the intake is the defining factor on that. Cummins offered 2 different heat exchangers on the 4bt. The later model was probably a bit better than the early one but still used engine coolant. Not the ideal system but better than none at all. Most diesels use an air to air intercooler mainly because it's cheaper, not better. The newer Ford diesels all use the water to air type. When you look at that system, the aftercooler radiator is huge. Around 4 feet wide and literally bigger than the engine cooling radiator. What is creating all the heat in the system is the turbo itself. When you compress air it gets hotter. Those silicone connecting hoses on the system are not for show. They are rated to 500 deg F and air temp can easily pass 300 deg F. Higher altitude areas make it even worse. It would be interesting to have air temp sensors in a turbo system, one reading temp coming out of the turbo and one reading temp at the intake manifold. Those gauges exist in various grades. The really good ones tend to be kind of expensive like in the $300 area. Good things are seldom cheap.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Spec’s are :
Comp Wheel = 46/78mm flows 38-39lb/min, capable of 320-330hp on a 4bt diesel
Turbine Wheel = 65/52mm
Turbine Housing = Waste Gated 6cm for fast spooling

I’ll throw a setup together NON IC , since it’s apart now hopefully it will be OK temporarily til I can switch to an under bumper intercooler setup. Luckily I have the room to do it under my ARB bumper just like the kit . I wish I could spend endless amounts, but after these continuous issues cash is running tight on this project .
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
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finally got the motor back together ,
New headgasket . ARP head studs , super 30 turbo,
Now the last piece of the puzzle is intercooler and intercooler piping , it’s tight in here so I’m wondering , is 2 inch or 2.5 inch piping too restrictive ? I’m hoping to just run 2 inch til I get to the turbo / intake then run a silicone increaser.. also anyone know where to find a oil return piece that will work I cut my factory one and run a piece of silicone hose to the block but I’m worried it will leak long term.
 
On your turbo plumbing, have you checked the clearance between your air intake and the oil filter? Going to be close if even possible. You'll need an air cobra head intake hose but yours is 4" like the HX35W. See photo below. I suspect you may need a remote oil filter. You'll just have to check and see. On the intercooler pipes, you can go smaller. The standard outlet elbow for the Super 30 is 3". There may be a 2.5" but it's not one we ever see. The standard 3" part number is 3918685 but there is a part 3918684 showing to be 2.5". Of course your can just use the 3" and a necked down coupling hose. I'd try to keep the pipes 2.5" if possible. What part for the oil drain are you looking for? If it is part # 4 in this diagram that is part 3903744. Cummins charges $56.91 for it but you can find it for near half that price.
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Discussion starter · #53 ·
I have a cobra head , that piece didn’t fit but instead I have a round 90* that barely clears. The rubber on it barely touches the oil filter . So it’s tight . As for the IC , I’ll order the 3 inch piece (thanks for the part number ) and try to shoot for 2.5 inch piping , it’s gonna be a pain to plumb it so I hope this is all worth it in the end .!!
 
If that is a standard HX30W/HX35W flange then it's a hair over 3". Amazingly, Cummins makes that part you're looking for which is 3910990. See photo below. That part is around $50 or so. I'm sure there are some aftermarket parts out there that are cheaper but this is one option. Are you needing a tighter bend than what you have there? That one looks to be about as tight as you can make it. That part is a half Marmon flange and you could make it with a lathe. Just use the old flange for dimensions.
 

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A FORD cobra head down pipe, has a 3" inlet.
 
I see the used FORD cobra head at times on the bay and other sites for between $50. & $150. USD
 
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