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The oem wiring was a strange design as char1355 stated. It can be simplified to eliminate the resistor and other BS and still work just fine. I have had to do it on several swaps to get the pump out of cold advance. The simple way is to just run switched power to the wax motor on the pump. While not ideal, it will work just fine. The next best is to put an inline normally open temp switch in the circuit so at around 120 degrees power is applied to the wax motor to kick it out of cold advance. The wax motor may not last as long this way, but I have yet to have one fail after setting it up this way. Due to the lack of part availability sometimes you just have to make things work. Unless you live in a cold environment the KSB isn't really needed, it's mainly just to reduce cold start emissions (white smoke). They can pretty easily be eliminated with a different advance cover and pressure regulator.
 
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