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Discussion Starter #41
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... OK GUYS back to my Diesel not running correctly . SO I've driving it several time getting it up to 200* .. bUT Tonight it died after I'd driving it for about 45 minutes . I'd stopped at my house to get another Beer & It died in my drive way.
Bam it was dead. I could hear the lift pump running ... SO I walk slow out to it & It starts up after a couple of spins.
Normally it'd start faster .
... I'm sure scratching my head.
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...... SO IT WASN'T INJECTORS ..
 

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Try gutting the start/stop solenoid ( pull off & take plunger & spring out & re-install just the solenoid body ). You will need to shut engine off by lever on side of pump but it will eliminate the possibility of a problem with s/s or electrical.
 

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Tractor Supply sells a "PULL TO STOP" cable for @12.99, I installed one in my F150

CountyLine Stop Cable, CC66 at Tractor Supply Co.

A question for Nascarmark: Is there a special tool for removing the start/stop solenoid on a VE pump? I've tried a bunch of different wrenches and crows-feet, never could reach back in there. Had a friend take the start/stop solenoid off of his 6bt by rotating it with a cold chisel - I'm reluctant to go that desert rat
Try gutting the start/stop solenoid ( pull off & take plunger & spring out & re-install just the solenoid body ). You will need to shut engine off by lever on side of pump but it will eliminate the possibility of a problem with s/s or electrical.
 

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Russ. No special tool that I know of. You can grind a wrench for better clearance or like you said...chisel. I have seen people cut off the top portion of the rear pump bracket too.
 

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Russ. No special tool that I know of. You can grind a wrench for better clearance or like you said...chisel. I have seen people cut off the top portion of the rear pump bracket too.
Thanks, going to be a "Hold my beer" job...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
OK THANKS FOR THAT BIT OF INFO.. THIS EVENING I brought 2 gallons of Diesel fuel home . & I added it into my tank . I was hoping That by bringing my tank up a slight bit .. That I'd have a hole In my Inlet tube inside the tank . & It might be sucking air after it got so low...
But I'm going to say that wasn't it .. My tank is 11 gallons... SO AFTER adding the fuel It was hard to start . IT Took several tries . Then it ran for about 5 minutes ok. I jumped in it & ran dow into the pasture to look at a plowing Job going on in one of my fields . When I got to the gate it dies. & Again it was hard to restart. SO It started & I took off heading back to the house. Half way home it dies .. & I leave the lift pump pumping ...& it's starts up in about a minute .
I wasn't grinding on it all that time . It runs & I head to house again .& It dies one more time . & Restarted like the other times. By the time I got back to shop It was ready to die again.
........I got back to it after an hour of off doing a choir for the wife . & I pulled & checked the wire ''connection'' going to were the power comes into the inj pump. It was good & tight.
 

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... I pulled & checked the wire ''connection'' going to were the power comes into the inj pump. It was good & tight.
The problem might be elsewhere in the wire that powers the start/stop solenoid (maybe a splice or connection at the power supply end).

Your problem sounds just like the problem I had in my Grumman van. Had me dead-in-the-back-yard for months. I cut back the old wire and installed a new wire (14 gauge - heavier duty than needed - for vibration resistance). It gets connected to a source of "RUN" power, not "ACCESSORY" power.
 

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SO RUSS you put a new wire completely back to the ign switch ..
That is your safest option, that way you are not depending on old wires. I used a test light to verify that I had +12 Volts with the ignition key in the "RUN" position and the light went out in the "ACCESSORY" position. Also make sure to pass the wire through a firewall grommet - sharp metal edges wear away the insulation on the wire and the wire can burn up.
 
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