Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

41 - 60 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
...................
... OK GUYS back to my Diesel not running correctly . SO I've driving it several time getting it up to 200* .. bUT Tonight it died after I'd driving it for about 45 minutes . I'd stopped at my house to get another Beer & It died in my drive way.
Bam it was dead. I could hear the lift pump running ... SO I walk slow out to it & It starts up after a couple of spins.
Normally it'd start faster .
... I'm sure scratching my head.
.......................................
...... SO IT WASN'T INJECTORS ..
 

·
Selling 4bt & 6bt parts to all of N.America
Joined
·
395 Posts
Try gutting the start/stop solenoid ( pull off & take plunger & spring out & re-install just the solenoid body ). You will need to shut engine off by lever on side of pump but it will eliminate the possibility of a problem with s/s or electrical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
Tractor Supply sells a "PULL TO STOP" cable for @12.99, I installed one in my F150

CountyLine Stop Cable, CC66 at Tractor Supply Co.

A question for Nascarmark: Is there a special tool for removing the start/stop solenoid on a VE pump? I've tried a bunch of different wrenches and crows-feet, never could reach back in there. Had a friend take the start/stop solenoid off of his 6bt by rotating it with a cold chisel - I'm reluctant to go that desert rat
Try gutting the start/stop solenoid ( pull off & take plunger & spring out & re-install just the solenoid body ). You will need to shut engine off by lever on side of pump but it will eliminate the possibility of a problem with s/s or electrical.
 

·
Selling 4bt & 6bt parts to all of N.America
Joined
·
395 Posts
Russ. No special tool that I know of. You can grind a wrench for better clearance or like you said...chisel. I have seen people cut off the top portion of the rear pump bracket too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
Russ. No special tool that I know of. You can grind a wrench for better clearance or like you said...chisel. I have seen people cut off the top portion of the rear pump bracket too.
Thanks, going to be a "Hold my beer" job...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
OK THANKS FOR THAT BIT OF INFO.. THIS EVENING I brought 2 gallons of Diesel fuel home . & I added it into my tank . I was hoping That by bringing my tank up a slight bit .. That I'd have a hole In my Inlet tube inside the tank . & It might be sucking air after it got so low...
But I'm going to say that wasn't it .. My tank is 11 gallons... SO AFTER adding the fuel It was hard to start . IT Took several tries . Then it ran for about 5 minutes ok. I jumped in it & ran dow into the pasture to look at a plowing Job going on in one of my fields . When I got to the gate it dies. & Again it was hard to restart. SO It started & I took off heading back to the house. Half way home it dies .. & I leave the lift pump pumping ...& it's starts up in about a minute .
I wasn't grinding on it all that time . It runs & I head to house again .& It dies one more time . & Restarted like the other times. By the time I got back to shop It was ready to die again.
........I got back to it after an hour of off doing a choir for the wife . & I pulled & checked the wire ''connection'' going to were the power comes into the inj pump. It was good & tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
... I pulled & checked the wire ''connection'' going to were the power comes into the inj pump. It was good & tight.
The problem might be elsewhere in the wire that powers the start/stop solenoid (maybe a splice or connection at the power supply end).

Your problem sounds just like the problem I had in my Grumman van. Had me dead-in-the-back-yard for months. I cut back the old wire and installed a new wire (14 gauge - heavier duty than needed - for vibration resistance). It gets connected to a source of "RUN" power, not "ACCESSORY" power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
SO RUSS you put a new wire completely back to the ign switch ..
That is your safest option, that way you are not depending on old wires. I used a test light to verify that I had +12 Volts with the ignition key in the "RUN" position and the light went out in the "ACCESSORY" position. Also make sure to pass the wire through a firewall grommet - sharp metal edges wear away the insulation on the wire and the wire can burn up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
... OK Char.. On my job today I got sent to the Diesel pump builder a hundred mile from me .. SO I Was glad to draw this trip.
... SO I bought a lift pump from him . It's a diaphragm pump no. HFP274-DEL.78.96
How'd I do. I gave him mY engine serial no.44226971.... & CPL NO 767.
........
hE'S SHIPPING IT TO ME . He no longer stocked that number.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,229 Posts
The HFP274 is a Delphi brand lift pump. You can find those at lots of places. Advance Auto sells them for $72.99 with a lifetime warranty. Not sure whose lifetime that is. LOL. They're on ebay for $48.24 shipped. NAPA sells them for $74.99. Rock Auto sells them for $61.79. You price seems to be in the normal range. Not sure why but they even sell them at Home Depot for $126.79. Didn't know they sold auto parts. Walmart even sells them. Here's the link to the ebay item. Fuel Lift Pump Delphi HFP274 for sale online | eBay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Char I just bought one from Steve the Diesel repair Guy yesterday .. While I was at his shop. Since he's always so nice on answering all my questions . I've know him about 30 years . But his repair service is 100 mile from where I live.
... My question fro you is this the correct number pump I need in your opinion.
I's got to be correct .. I believe since he put in my CPL & My engine serial number into his Computer Program.
Hell at my work we don't even have the programs he has.
We can look up parts fro Freightliner . But not cummins but we do a lot of cross referencing .
We have an International dealer we look up Freightliner parts for & they look up IH for us.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Man don't ever QUESTION why my Bronco is named SNAKEBITE..
BACK IN ABOUT 2006 WHEN I got it & started to work on it .. I named it Snakebite because everything I did to it seemed like I had to do it 2 & or 3 times .
.... So tonight I'm out there in 2020 & It's been a year since it's ran proper . & Well it's still fighting me .. Yesterday I got my new Delphi manual lift pump installed. But of course my battery was dead ..1st time in 3 years on this one.
SO It was pumped up & felt like it had fuel to start with.
... SO I just couldn't stand it as I was about to leave for work . I just had to reach in & touch it off.
Cranked right up .. ran about a minute & died.... Heck I figure it didn't have enough fuel to the filter ..
SO I get home this evening & I go to shop .TOUCH IT OFF & It cranks & runs about the sam length of time .
..That strange . I mess with it & After it'll sets for a minute .. It start up & run good . but then DIE.
so I spent about the next hour crawling in & out From under the SOB . I got new ground & power to the old lift pump .
It never ran . & It doesn't have maybe a month of run time on it .
...............
.... SO I've got a little more time to spend with my favorite project ... Maybe one of these days it'll run again.
 

·
Selling 4bt & 6bt parts to all of N.America
Joined
·
395 Posts
Sounds like it needs a tune up with a hammer. JK. Sorry to hear it's still giving you problems. Did you ever try to eliminate the electrical start/stop solenoid or at least run a jumper wire from pos + side of battery to it....bypass all your electrical wiring. It's about the only thing that could be shutting down the engine. It's not a air problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
NO I'D Forgot about that. But I'd ran it by the guy at the Injection pump place. He didn't think that was the issue.
.......
... He actually wants to rebuild my pump again. But the cost to rebuild our pumps..4bt... Is up at about 900.00 now.
.. But if you'll send me your note on how to do what your saying .. I'll get this young '' out of work '' oil field tech that comes to help name once a week.
.....I'll get him to read your text & we'll see where that takes us.
.................
..... THANK YOU . & SORRY I'VE GOT BEHIND & FORGOT abut your post.
Too MUCH going on in my life.
..... & TOO BE really Honest .. Since my son passed away in Nov 27th. I'm crazy one day & back on line for a day or 2.
Ken is the 2nd son I've lost in 20 years . 1st one was 25 in a wreck & This one was 49 of CANCER.
..... SO I know it just a excuse but . But I'm on board on day. & Nowhere near the train the next day..
..................
... I think I remember your POST but It's way out there in my memory.
.............. Thanks & Sorry I forgot abut checking it out.
 

·
Selling 4bt & 6bt parts to all of N.America
Joined
·
395 Posts
I would 1st try, simply running a jumper wire directly from the positive side of battery to the electrical connector of the FSS & test drive. This eliminates the possibility that your electrical system of truck has problems.

Either take start/stop solenoid (FSS) off & pull the plunger & spring out & re-install the FSS ....this eliminates the FSS as being a possible problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
Thanks it's on but I'm still not running .
It now cranks & runs for maybe 30 seconds ...& DIE.
WAIT 30 seconds & it'll crank again.
 
41 - 60 of 81 Posts
Top