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Glad to help any way I can. Like I said, the basic mods you have in the plans should get you into the 200-225 HP area. No need to change injectors but might have them tested to be sure they are working correctly. I dug back into some older info and the P3000 injectors do have a lower pop pressure like the VE or A injection pumps. The P7100 had a 5x.010 injector with 260 bar. Those tips would be fine for a P3000 but the pop pressure would mess up the timing. You can't substitute VE injectors because they have the wrong size threads for the fuel line. If you wanted a bit more fuel the 5x.012 tips would be more than adequate. If you pull the injectors the pop number is usually stamped on the body. If someone has accidentally replaced them with the P7100 sticks you need to fix that because the timing would be retarded making for poor performance. Your injector tips may be DLLA145P574 which is Bosch part 0 432 131 694. Another member had those on his P3000 engine. If you wanted a bit more performance, member Nascarmark could probably help you. Might take your injector bodies, assuming they are the right pop pressure, and install 5x.012 tips. The closer the pop pressure is to factory tolerance the better the engine will run. Usually no more than 5 bar variance across the 4 injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
And I didn’t proofread very well .
I meant to say I need to do some research on the Power steering pump .
I know what I would like to have just need to find out how to get there!
 

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What specifics are you needing for the power steering pump? The road engines used in lighter duty vehicles came with several options. Like I said, with the P pump the units had to be a bit different to clear that massive injection pump. On a 4bt there was basically only one model which was power steering only. Those units used a remote reservoir like the one pictured below. If hydroboost brakes are in the picture there will be 2 return lines. The one from the steering gear normally goes to the pump can and the one from the hydroboost unit goes to the remote reservoir. That '84 GM pump I showed you actually had 2 returns to the pump but that wasn't the case with later units. Folks have adapted the ps/vacuum combo but it only came on 6bt engines. To use it you have to change the reservoir part to one with the remote can. May not clear on your engine because I believe I saw you have the mid engine motor mounts. Real estate on that side of the block gets kind of tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
What specifics are you needing for the power steering pump? The road engines used in lighter duty vehicles came with several options. Like I said, with the P pump the units had to be a bit different to clear that massive injection pump. On a 4bt there was basically only one model which was power steering only. Those units used a remote reservoir like the one pictured below. If hydroboost brakes are in the picture there will be 2 return lines. The one from the steering gear normally goes to the pump can and the one from the hydroboost unit goes to the remote reservoir. That '84 GM pump I showed you actually had 2 returns to the pump but that wasn't the case with later units. Folks have adapted the ps/vacuum combo but it only came on 6bt engines. To use it you have to change the reservoir part to one with the remote can. May not clear on your engine because I believe I saw you have the mid engine motor mounts. Real estate on that side of the block gets kind of tight.
It sounds like Hydro boost brake system will be the way I need to go. I may end goal is and I’ll admit I plan on beating on my car a bit. I would like to have line lock/lever style parking brake for the front brakes only.
Just think it would be fun having that way being it’s a standard transmission.It all kind of depends on how much power it has if that will even come together
 

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Do you plan for the brake booster to be on the firewall or under the floor? They make hydroboost in both styles. The firewall type are what is found on modern vehicles and the under the floor type are custom made for hot rods and antique vehicles. Trying to remember, will having a front park bake cause the rear to come around in an emergency application? I know antique vehicles only had rear brakes for that reason. The utility vans had their park brake on the drive shaft
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Do you plan for the brake booster to be on the firewall or under the floor? They make hydroboost in both styles. The firewall type are what is found on modern vehicles and the under the floor type are custom made for hot rods and antique vehicles. Trying to remember, will having a front park bake cause the rear to come around in an emergency application? I know antique vehicles only had rear brakes for that reason. The utility vans had their park brake on the drive shaft
So my body is channeled by 4”, it completely covers the frame. I’ll have to go fire wall mounted from my understanding, which is little!!
My goal of the front breaks will only be for smoking the rear tires .
Figured It would be easier pulling a lever to lock the front tires instead of three footing the pedals trying to do a burn out.
I would have no intentions on using the front only for stopping, just for play.
 

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The reason I asked about the brake booster location was that huge electric lift pump system. In the floor hydroboost could still be possible. Might put it under the seat since you only have 4" of frame. I'm assuming you have a little space between the seat and floor. Just need to be able to access the master to add fluid. Hydroboost units are not huge like vacuum assist so there are many mounting possibilities. Those custom mount units come with very high grade parts so they aren't exactly cheap. Probably hit around $1000 and up. Tallon Hydraulics in Michigan was one company I had dealt with years ago. They specialize in those type systems. There are quite a few of the remote application units you can find on the net.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
That is right. You can do mods in stages and see how they affect the performance. For what you plan that fancy electric lift pump is probably overkill. With a single turbo you're not going a lot over 200 HP which a perfectly good number for a street engine. Your car probably isn't that heavy so once you get it running and start tuning it will fell like you have a big block V8. You have a good turbo and you'll definitely need the intercooler in the first stage of tuning. Second step would probably be the governor spring. Doesn't really add a lot of power but improves gear shifting. The #10 plate and timing adjustment will have a considerable effect on power. It will be like the engine just woke up. The P3000 injection pump isn't the fire breathing monster like the P7100 but it should give you an honest 200-225 HP with all the changes. One item you need to keep in consideration is that vacuum/power steering combo. As I mentioned, that one isn't the best choice. If you don't need a vacuum source for any thing, might look for just the normal power steering pump. If you have vacuum power brakes in the plan then you'll need the vacuum. Otherwise I'd look at hydroboost brakes which tend to be much better. Those run off the power steering pump. I can sort of guess why the previous owner chose that early combo. When mounted it will clear the P pump without any mods. The later combos require changing the PS pump reservoir to a different type and use a remote reservoir. Even the PS pump only type that came on the P pump was that style. Below are photos of the power 2 types of power steering pumps. Those stand alone pumps are available new but are not cheap. Around $630. You can find one used occasionally. The expensive part is the mounting and gear which is $360. If you had those parts you can find the pump part at a reasonable price. That pump with the round reservoir came on GM Asto Vans and some of the diesel pickups. Below shows one off an '84 Chevy K3500.
So again I’m still learning.
After doing more research I think I will be going with mechanical brakes. Seems like a lot less lines to run and a cleaner look. Also to help
I’ll have disc on all four corners and this is no race car.,
So I’ll need just the power steering pump only.
Out or the pictures you sent it is the second one correct?
Would you happen to know a part number, or at the auto parts store I just need a power steering pump for a 94-98 Dodge?
Sorry for the dumb question..
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Also any suggestions on an oil feed line to the turbo?
the one I picked up is wrong.
I knew the HX30 has a male fitting , it is smaller diameter than what comes out of the oil filter housing.
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OK. Don't necessarily have anything against non power brakes. That will be a matter of finding the correct master that will match up to your braking system. Your vehicle isn't going to be extremely heavy. The main thing will be the pistons in disc brakes tend to be larger capacity than the slaves in the old drum type so the master needs to compensate for that. On post #38, the second photo is the correct power steering unit for a 4bt with P pump. A company has gone to the trouble of having the OEM mounting bracket made. They are Quickdraw Brand and the one source I know of and you'll note their parts are made in the USA. They charge $359 for the kit. I'll give you the Cummins part numbers but have no clue whether they can be found. A company named Uptime Parts shows them in their catalog but no idea if they are still available. Did a little search and found this company. Saginaw style Power steering pump mount fits Cummins 4bt 6bt vacuum delete They sell the Quickdraw bracket only for $61.88 including shipping. That is super cheap. That is the part that is near impossible to find. The gear has an older Cummins number and I believe it's 3902595. It is not cheap. Usually over $100. I did find Anderson Equipment Co that has it for $58.68. Just not 100% sure that's the correct number but that's what I found in an old post. See photo below. More research may be needed. Uptime may have those and you can contact them to see what kind of price they have. The power steering pump has a GM number 26019743. Cheap part for only $439.59 retail. LOL. O'reilly's sells the rebuilt pump under part 731-2176 for $75.99 + $12 core. Just a tad cheaper. You can shop the pump for a 1990 Chevy Astro with V6 engine and hydroboost brakes. You can search other parts stores and possibly find a cheaper price. Rockauto has one 207923 for $44.99 incl core. The remote reservoir is a bit of a challenge. The one from the Astro van has been discontinued for some time but I think there are aftermarket replacements. Dorman has part 603-851. Rockauto sell that for $72.99. That will have a return line for hydroboost so you'd just put a cap on it.

On your oil line, the correct one has a male on 1 end and female on the other. The hose in your photo is similar to the correct one but needs a male/male adapter in one end. Does that hose fit the fitting on the turbo? If so, then you just need a male/male coupler on the other end. You have a couple options. The fitting threaded in the oil filter housing is M12x1.50. You'd remove that fitting and find a male/male that is that on one end and whatever you hose needs on the other end. There is a second port on your filter housing which is 1/8" NPT. You could use that one and plug the metric one if you couldn't find a fitting to do the job. Just need to know what the fitting on the hose ends to match it all up.

6100559 Power steering pump mounting bracket (older number is 3910656)
6100558 Power steering pump gear
1100253 Pump to bracket gasket
1100252 Bracket to timing housing gasket
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
@char1355 , Sir as I’m moving along with my project I’ve come to another question please. What do you know about the throttle and what assembly goes on it. Trying to get the steering and pedals mocked up …
 

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OK. On the throttle linkage you'll sort have to work that out yourself. The throttle arm is there close to the back of the pump and moves forward to increase. Below is a photo of one members setup. However, in your case your start/stop solenoid is in the way for that particular design. That P3000 was an industrial application pump and probably had a simple mechanical rod linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
OK. On the throttle linkage you'll sort have to work that out yourself. The throttle arm is there close to the back of the pump and moves forward to increase. Below is a photo of one members setup. However, in your case your start/stop solenoid is in the way for that particular design. That P3000 was an industrial application pump and probably had a simple mechanical rod linkage.
As always thank you for the reply.
do you think and if it is possible, can I go with a mechanical style shut off for the fuel and then use the rod assembly as illustrated in the picture you showed me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
 

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A mechanical shut down should be no problem to work out. You can get a simple cable for that purpose from Tractor Supply for very little money. Many farm tractors had mechanical controlled injection pumps.

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I think I’m Going to keep the electric fuel shut off solenoid. I believe I have room or I can configure some type of linkage like this for my fuel delivery
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