Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for indulging me. I've been reading all over the forum and getting a great deal of info, but several questions have come up that I haven't easily found an answer. I'm a novice with diesel engines, but well versed in all manner of gas and propane fueled engines. I appreciate constructive steering that keeps me on the right track.

I am picking up what I understand to be a 4bd2t/Jatco JR403e. I'll take possession in a week or two. I plan to drop it into a 1970 Chevy Suburban.

1. I presume I will need a lift pump to move fuel from the tank, up to the engine. What's a good unit, and what sort of filtration should I look for. Unfortunately, I have no access to the donor truck.

2. How important is the exhaust brake on a 4bd2? Were all equipped for warm up? Should I go out of my way to install one in central Texas? We don't get cold around here.

3. What do I need to know about running the JR403e transmission? Is it cable shifted and electronic controls like a 4L80e? Is it tunable with shift kits, etc? It looks like it from what I'm reading. I would switch to a 4L80e before spending the cash on an aftermarket controller that costs more than $600. It looks like the 3.73 gear ratio in the Suburban is not unreasaonable as long as I don't undersize the tires. Thoughts?

4. Is the 4bd2 equipped with an EGT sensor from the factory? If no, where should I install it? Close by the turbo outlet? What exhaust temps are in the satisfactory range?

5. Is there a checklist of ingredients for a diesel swap anywhere? It seems too easy, to be honest. I worry I am missing something.

6. What were the dimensions of the factory intercooler? I know more is better, but what is minimum?

Thanks!
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
3,907 Posts
Thanks for indulging me. I've been reading all over the forum and getting a great deal of info, but several questions have come up that I haven't easily found an answer. I'm a novice with diesel engines, but well versed in all manner of gas and propane fueled engines. I appreciate constructive steering that keeps me on the right track.

I am picking up what I understand to be a 4bd2t/Jatco JR403e. I'll take possession in a week or two. I plan to drop it into a 1970 Chevy Suburban.

1. I presume I will need a lift pump to move fuel from the tank, up to the engine. What's a good unit, and what sort of filtration should I look for. Unfortunately, I have no access to the donor truck.

2. How important is the exhaust brake on a 4bd2? Were all equipped for warm up? Should I go out of my way to install one in central Texas? We don't get cold around here.

3. What do I need to know about running the JR403e transmission? Is it cable shifted and electronic controls like a 4L80e? Is it tunable with shift kits, etc? It looks like it from what I'm reading. I would switch to a 4L80e before spending the cash on an aftermarket controller that costs more than $600. It looks like the 3.73 gear ratio in the Suburban is not unreasaonable as long as I don't undersize the tires. Thoughts?

4. Is the 4bd2 equipped with an EGT sensor from the factory? If no, where should I install it? Close by the turbo outlet? What exhaust temps are in the satisfactory range?

5. Is there a checklist of ingredients for a diesel swap anywhere? It seems too easy, to be honest. I worry I am missing something.

6. What were the dimensions of the factory intercooler? I know more is better, but what is minimum?

Thanks!
Welcome :)

Wise list.

1) Nope, factory injection pump has one, get a "sedimenter" or a filter with a see through bowl on the bottom (Racor and others sell them) to keep the big gobs out (maybe the person your buying the engine and trans from can snag you the stock one?).

2) Very useful for driving, especially for what gets called "grade braking" (going down a long hill). Probably won't need it for warm up.

3) Cable shift, electronically corrected, if you don't want to shift it manually, get the harness, computer, resistor and the factory shifter (useless for anything else but your trans so they shouldn't gouge you for price). I don't know of an aftermarket controller, but you might take a look at the Mega Shift (TM) system, from the MegaSquirt EFI people.

4) No, put it in the center of the manifold, or the adapter/spacer if you are changing turbos.

5) I think there is one in Bob S' tech sticky (THX Bob :) ).

6) Doesn't matter, find whatever the guys are using for an Air to Air for he 4BT / 6BT cummins with your core support (so 68-72 or 73 for a 'Burb IIRC) and use that. It will be larger than stock, but for a charge cooler you won't care.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
3) Cable shift, electronically corrected, if you don't want to shift it manually, get the harness, computer, resistor and the factory shifter (useless for anything else but your trans so they shouldn't gouge you for price). I don't know of an aftermarket controller, but you might take a look at the Mega Shift (TM) system, from the MegaSquirt EFI people.
Does this mean that without the harness, you can shift it like a clutchless manual doing something like D32L? Is there a drawback to this, like the full pressure shift my chevy car does, when the ecu craps out, which threatens to make the engine leap out the front?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
#5; "Seems too easy".... LOL thats a good one!!! I called a performance shop in salt lake city to see what THEY charge for a standard Cummin 12v into a newer Ford--- I won't even SAY the price. I know yours will be much easier, (i did a 4bd into a 89 suburban). TOO easy is a perspective- and i hope you have a postitive one becasue it's going to be tested.. Good luck- and i think your swap and approach are spot-on.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top