[Rdnck Randy]

idk if you have a threaded port on your exhaust manifold, most guys drill and tap somewhere before the turbo... I have a 90 degree hot pipe which is cast iron and it does have a threaded port for a pyro probe, some guys don't feel a after turbo probe gives a true reading, I'm up in the air about this, because the big trucks I've owned all had after turbo probes installed in the turbo down pipe... as does my 12v pusher motor home, it stays around 900-1000 on grades and 500-600 on flats... I found this tire size/rpm calculator on the spicer america site that is very user friendly, just remember your final drive ratio is 0.69 if your running a 47rh or re, this might help you when picking out tire size or a axle ratio change...

boomersrule55

Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to check out that website before buying tires. I was shocked by the cost of 37" tires.

I'm with you on the thermocouple for the pyrometer, and unlike most people, I have had a thermocouple break off in the pipe, and fortunately for me it was downstream from the turbo, so it didn't cause a problem.

 

[Rdnck Randy]

Actually, Cummins recommends the pyro probe to be after the turbo. The reason for that is that if the probe should break it won't damage the turbine wheel. That in itself would be a very rare occurrence. Post turbo is fine but you have to keep in mind that reading will be 200-300 deg lower than pre turbo. I'd think 1000 deg post turbo would be the limit. Most guy shoot for 1000-1100 deg pre turbo. Another rule that many don't follow is when you come to a stopping point, don't just shut down the engine. You need to let it idle until that temp drops to around 500 deg or a bit lower. You see those big rigs sitting at the truck stop with engines idling is not to just waste fuel. They are saving their turbo from damage.

char1355

Thanks for the info. I'm with you there on the thermocouple for the pyrometer. I actually have had one break off, and was glad it was downstream from the turbo.

 

[Rdnck Randy]

Sounds more like a faulty connection. Will not start next morning but still had life in the batteries after a year, then there is no excess draw on them. Possibly even a bad starter motor.

That's a good possibility. I was going to start with checking all the connections, hot and grounds to see if it's something simple( loose connection, corrosion etc.). one can always hope, right?

 

[millerdoug3005]

Redark1,

Great suggestion. I'm thinking that he doesn't have the ability to charge them, but I haven't asked yet.

I was planning to stop by an auto parts store get filters, oil, coolant, and a basic tool kit , along with a test light and multimeter, etc

I'm optimistic that I wont have to go as far as bleeding the injectors, as it was running when he parked it, but I'm thinking it ultimately depends on the type and location of the fuel filter housing, and if I have any drain back of fuel while changing it.. Thanks for the low down on the injector bleeding, and pump priming procedure.

I will definitely take a look at the electric fan. Is there anything in particular that I should be on the lookout for? I'm encouraged that for the most part it doesn't appear as though there is a bunch of "rats nest" looking wiring. The gentleman had a respectable shop do all of the work on it, and has moved to a new town since then, so is unable to take it back to have them diagnose.

Be sure to check the kill switch. Make sure you have power to it when in the start position. And no power to it once killed. This is in addition to everything everyone else has offered. Great luck to you.

 

[loungehaiin]

The electrical problem may be solved by removing all fuses, does it still discharge- then something shouldn’t be connected. As replacing fuses, soon will discover which fuse circuit is short to ground.