oil filter relocation
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I broght mine up beside the radiator. My HY35W interfered with the oil filter flange and I cut it off and made an adapter. You can see it in my buildup postings. Used one of the remote units from Summit racing.
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Like that Idea
Mine has a horizontal filter. What a mess changing oil. Want to relocated also, but will most likely go with a dual by-pass filter and synthetic, on my 6BT and 4BT conversions. I change a lot of oil, went from 5K to 7.5K and now to 10K, but still use at least 5 gallons a month in changes. Not a single vehicle (all diesels) I own and have on the road use oil between 10K changes. Think synthetic will help my plight. Keep my engine clean on outside, too.
Wayne
Mine has a horizontal filter. What a mess changing oil. Want to relocated also, but will most likely go with a dual by-pass filter and synthetic, on my 6BT and 4BT conversions. I change a lot of oil, went from 5K to 7.5K and now to 10K, but still use at least 5 gallons a month in changes. Not a single vehicle (all diesels) I own and have on the road use oil between 10K changes. Think synthetic will help my plight. Keep my engine clean on outside, too.
Wayne
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197 Posts
I just bought the Ford remote filter adapter to switch over to. I like theirs because you can use their 8" long stock filter or go to the 1 micron filters that look to be about 12-14" long and can run on extended oil change intervals.
Will this work? :idea:
My HY35W is a bit too close to my horizontal oil filter....
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-10695&N=700+115&autoview=sku
My HY35W is a bit too close to my horizontal oil filter....
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-10695&N=700+115&autoview=sku
"The following adapters are included 3/4-16 in., 1in.-12, 13/16-16 in, 18mm x 1.5, 20mm x 1.5mm, 22mm x 1.5mm"
Sounds like it would. I am not sure what size our engines use.... 1" x 12 TPI?
The part# is 1156 from perma cool and 771-1156 from jeg's For the part tha replaces the filter on the block.
And 10756 and 771-10756 for the complete kit
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1,830 Posts
Mikel: It should work just fine, this is exactly what I'm doing to do with mine. I already have the filter cannister mounted to the lower firewall and will screw the engine adapter on when I am installing the engine on final assembly. Mine is a Permacool too but I got it from AA. Uses a generic Ford Screw on filter. My kit was for a GM V8 so it should just screw right onto the engine, since my engine is CPL858 GM van app.
Also I mounted my cannister upright so that when you are changing the filter any leakage goes directly to the ground and not all over the Jeep, but high enough so it won't get picked off by crap thrown up by the front tire.
I don't understand the idea of mounting the filter sideways, why didn't they just mount it upside down above the valve covers, that way they wouldn't have wasted any oil, and it would have gone all over the engine instead of just down the right side! Makes no sense to me.
I would recommend having real hyd hoses made for the setup, I don't trust hose barbs and hose clamps for engine oil pressure.
Any Hydraulic shop can make the hoses and they shouldn't be more than $20.
Randy
Also I mounted my cannister upright so that when you are changing the filter any leakage goes directly to the ground and not all over the Jeep, but high enough so it won't get picked off by crap thrown up by the front tire.
I don't understand the idea of mounting the filter sideways, why didn't they just mount it upside down above the valve covers, that way they wouldn't have wasted any oil, and it would have gone all over the engine instead of just down the right side! Makes no sense to me.
I would recommend having real hyd hoses made for the setup, I don't trust hose barbs and hose clamps for engine oil pressure.
Any Hydraulic shop can make the hoses and they shouldn't be more than $20.
Randy
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1,447 Posts
If it's an adapter that is for a GM V8, it's not going to work on the Cummins.
GM V8 (well, smallblock) uses a 13/16" 16 thread filter mount.
Cummins, as previously indicated, uses a 1" 16 thread.
I confirmed this by checking the specs of the appropriate filters: NAPA 1061 for GM small block V8, 1602 for horizontal mount Cummins, and 1607 for vertical mount Cummins. Primary difference between a 1602 and 1607 is that the 1607 is nearly 2 inches longer and slightly larger diameter.
Oh, and before you use "whatever" filter that comes with a remote location kit (I would peg that "generic Ford filter" as a NAPA 1515 - common as beans on Ford gassers, or was..), you might look at the flow rate specs of that filter ( http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=FIL1515_0217939555 for a 1515) and compare to what should be on there ( http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=FIL1602_0006473344 1602).
Ford filter, 7-9 GPM, Cummins 12-16. That's a significant difference, folks. Oh, and add in the effects of a few feet of hose, fittings, etc. on flow, and it gets cut even more. What does it mean? It means that you're going to have the potential of operating the engine with the filter being bypassed a lot more of the time (if not almost ALL the time).
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at what pressure does the bypass begin?
Those specs are very important (gpm) another thing to look for is the anti drainback valve and (I'm sure) many other things. For my application it is a necessary evil. NAPA had a page of specs for everyone of the specs that you should look at fo making such a modification. Fleetgaurd also had that info. Has any one found a remote filter base that has the correct 1"16tpi so a factory filter (or two).
And FYI the #6 hoses (for power steering) I made with Parker reusable full flow ends ran closer to $60 a piece. I can imagine that the #8 or #10 hoses that will be used for a decent oil filter relocation hose will be slightly more. This is no place for a barbed fitting and water hose clamp.
And FYI the #6 hoses (for power steering) I made with Parker reusable full flow ends ran closer to $60 a piece. I can imagine that the #8 or #10 hoses that will be used for a decent oil filter relocation hose will be slightly more. This is no place for a barbed fitting and water hose clamp.
Most people who run oil filter relocations know that they are massively increasing stress on the oil pump and potentially starving the mains at some point. The ONLY way I would install a remote filter is if it was a couple inches of hose simply to make a filter vertical very close to where the factory had mounted a horizontal filter on the block.
The picture above with the filter remotely mounted to the firewall is what you are told to avoid. Frankly its not all that much effort to spin off a filter and get a little oily so I always say screw relocating filters.
The picture above with the filter remotely mounted to the firewall is what you are told to avoid. Frankly its not all that much effort to spin off a filter and get a little oily so I always say screw relocating filters.
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My goodness, I guess I'll just have to look into all of these issues.
The filter I got was a 1515. Sure looks the same size as the one on the engine but I'll check to see if it is going to make any difference, cuz if the other filter flows more then it is because it is not filtering as fine, or maybe it is running at a higher pressure? The filter cannisters are the same or nearly so. There are some holes around the outside and a hole in the center. .. Theres nothing else it could be.
As far as the threads go if they are wrong I'll probably just walk 15 feet to my machine shop and change them. I can do that.
With real hyd hoses that are 18" long and 1/2" id I don't see any problem with flow. The added length will have little to no effect. there will be no drain back as the filter is below the engine oil outlet.
But still I'll make sure before I jump.
Thanks for the heads up guys
Randy
The filter I got was a 1515. Sure looks the same size as the one on the engine but I'll check to see if it is going to make any difference, cuz if the other filter flows more then it is because it is not filtering as fine, or maybe it is running at a higher pressure? The filter cannisters are the same or nearly so. There are some holes around the outside and a hole in the center. .. Theres nothing else it could be.
As far as the threads go if they are wrong I'll probably just walk 15 feet to my machine shop and change them. I can do that.
With real hyd hoses that are 18" long and 1/2" id I don't see any problem with flow. The added length will have little to no effect. there will be no drain back as the filter is below the engine oil outlet.
But still I'll make sure before I jump.
Thanks for the heads up guys
Randy
Stress
I have a situation where it would be impossible to get to the filter, so given that would you use a booster pump to increase flow and reduce the stress on the oil pump?
What would you use as a booster pump? Would a booster pump cause stress on the oil pump?
I was hoping to have a remote dual oil filter system with an oil cooler inline to the filters. The run would go under the cab, this is in my 1939.
I have a situation where it would be impossible to get to the filter, so given that would you use a booster pump to increase flow and reduce the stress on the oil pump?
What would you use as a booster pump? Would a booster pump cause stress on the oil pump?
I was hoping to have a remote dual oil filter system with an oil cooler inline to the filters. The run would go under the cab, this is in my 1939.
I had to move the turbo forward and the turbo inlet and the filter simply cannot occupy the same place. The time you add "stress" to the system is at startup if the sytem loses prime, or, if you add restriction to the system. Too many bends incorrect hose and fitting size or trying to move a column of fluid vertically could add restriction. It would seem that if you avoid these major pitfalls you should be Golden.
Anti- Drainback valves in the filter should (I said should) prevent the drainback and the startup starvation problem.
Check valves are available if the ones in the filter are not trusted.
Once in operation, The filter relocation part of the system should be transparent to the oil pump as long as the flow rate of the filter has not been lowered and no other restrictions have been added.
The Pump Drive on these engines are not weak like a domestic V-8's #2 pencil driveshaft.
I think Massively might be a bit of an exaggeration.
Anti- Drainback valves in the filter should (I said should) prevent the drainback and the startup starvation problem.
Check valves are available if the ones in the filter are not trusted.
Once in operation, The filter relocation part of the system should be transparent to the oil pump as long as the flow rate of the filter has not been lowered and no other restrictions have been added.
The Pump Drive on these engines are not weak like a domestic V-8's #2 pencil driveshaft.
I think Massively might be a bit of an exaggeration.
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707 Posts
Randy, if the 1/2" hose will fiow enuf, I think the 3/8" or smaller i.d. of the brass fittings will NOT flow enuf gmp. look inside the 1" x16 threaded fitting that the cummins filter screws on to. the brass fittings you use should be at least that size, ID. the oil pickup tube in the cummins pan is about 1&1/4" OD. it is areally high VOLUME oil system. I think you should be running 3/4" hose and at least 1/2" pipe threads on your adapters. I`d hate to see you have engine durability issues because of insufficent oil FLOW capacity. It`s just my opinion based on the number of big block and small block chevy engines that had bearing (rod and main) issues when the owner used 1/2" hose to relocate their oil filter. after I rebuilt their engine and replaced the oil filter adapters with i/2" pipe threads and 3/4" hose fittings and hose, they had no more bearing issues. Please do some research on this issue before you put your scrambler on the road. :beer::beer:
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