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Discussion Starter #1
What does everyone like or are going to use for oil and oil filtration?
 

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I currently use the Valvoline Premium Blue diesel oil per Cummins spec, with spec'd Fleetguard filter. However I just got a nice old bypass filtration unit and will be using a NAPA 1503 in it at first, to aid in total cleaning of oil. This will be in addition to the stock spin-on. this bypass unit uses a drop-in filter.

Next step is to change over all lubricants to Amsoil. From my research they have an excellent product line with proven performance. I still need to find out which bypass filter cartridge has the finest micron rating. These bypass systems are the final answer for a 'keeper' engine as they're proven [SAE analysis and testing] since the 40's to greatly extend engine life. Cummins even spec'd them as standard equipment on many of their engines. Under the right circumstances your oil will last for the lifetime of the engine with only 'makeup' oil added at filter changes! Bypass also removes diesel soot which other filters cannot capture. When soot particles are clumped together they're very bad news for the engine's guts, so bypass is the answer.
 

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I used to transport exotic cars with my Cummins, and here is what worked for me. I went 25,000 miles on conventional oil, changing it every 5,000 miles (which was every week). Then I switched to synthetics, using Mobil 1, Valvoline (Cummins endorsed), and Amsoil, depending on what was available.

I started out going 10,000 miles between oil changes, but I changed my filter (stock, or Fleetguard) every 5,000. After multiple oil analysis, I started going 20,000 miles between changes, and changed the filter every 10,000. The oil analysis always said my oil was still good and the engine wear was minimal.

After 460,000 miles in 3.5 years, my engine was not using any oil between filter changes. I did not see the point in aftermarket filtration. In fact, I didn't modify a single thing on that truck. Every 20,000 miles it got new oil, air filter, and fuel filter. Out of the 460,000 miles, MAYBE 5,000 miles of it was not towing!

My trailer weighed 11,100 pounds empty, so it wasn't like it was light duty either. Fully loaded weighed around 32,000 pounds (truck and trailer), with a tongue weight of 5,400 pounds :eek: . It was a bumper pull!!!! :eek:

You wanna rock? Leave it stock! I was very impressed with that truck. I took care of it by not abusing it. My first set of brake pads lasted 210,000 miles!!! My hitch never failed and I never ran one of those pussy weight distribution hitches either ;) , however, I had to run my Firestone air bags at 130psi just to keep the truck level!
 

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My trailer weighed 11,100 pounds empty, so it wasn't like it was light duty either. Fully loaded weighed around 32,000 pounds (truck and trailer), with a tongue weight of 5,400 pounds :eek: . It was a bumper pull!!!! :eek:
Were you using a pintle hitch? Sounds like a lot of overload for stock clas IV/V receiver. (5400lbs of tongue weight)
 

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Were you using a pintle hitch? Sounds like a lot of overload for stock clas IV/V receiver. (5400lbs of tongue weight)
Just a stock hitch on a Dodge 1 TON. Maybe the ratings system needs to be re-evaluated, because I had 2 trucks of my own, and 1 of my employees used his truck the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like the whole range of choices going on here, all the way from stock to by-pass and synthetics and non-synthetics. On the by pass issue I noticed that there is also a very large 4 quart single filter like Donaldson and Wix that can go on a large remote adapter with something like a 1 1/2" center thread. The filters are supposed to be good for 1 micron and 5psi drop at some very high flows. Is this less expensive than the by-pass systems and simular in performance? I have to change mine to something better because when I went remote all I could find was a standard gas engine filter adapter with a rather small filter. Which filters remove the soot that gum up things? Is soot of a typical particle size and larger or smaller than most wear type particles?
 

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On the bypass systems you're getting into a pretty large area of factors. There's 'Bypass Spin-on' that uses small micron filters, such as the Amsoil and others. There's the bypass that I use which is a cannister type, not spin-on, and uses cartirdges inside filter housing. It's about 10" X 4" and uses maybe a quart or so to refill cannister with a filter in there, haven't installed and filled yet. My cartridges run between $8 plus shipping or $12 at the counter from NAPA for a WIX filter.

The very best for ultimate filtration is a toilet paper element filter. If one has a brain and uses good sense they're not really messy to change out and refill. Nothing matches the micron filtration rating. One uses a single TP roll, Scot 1000's, another uses 2 rolls, and another huge thing uses Paper Towel rolls.

You can use an auxiliary mount for a spin-on cartridge for a bypass, or there are dual spin-on adapters with one cartridge for normal oil filtration and the other for bypass. There are also adapters that are only bypass, or only normal spin-on oil filter. Anything you want is readily available. If you post specific needs I can direct you to mfgr's or more info on that type. I don't sell products, by the way.
 

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I used a Kleenoil http://www.kleenoil.ca/ on a chevy 6.5 diesel supposedly filtered down to 1 micron. easy to change filters , just take new filter out of plastic bag and then put your hand in the bag and grab old filter and quickly turn upside down and wrap up no mess at all. Oil stayed cleaner for much longer with this. I will be putting it on my cummins when I get it in.

Gaza
 

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I would love to see some pics of these different bypass systems personally!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fleetguard LF9027 Venturi Full flow/bypass filter
Fleetguards top of the line Stratapore synthetic full flow media with a stacked disc bypass filtering section in the bottom of the oil filter. These filter provide the needed flow rates for the full flow but also filter down to a very fine particle in the bypass section.
Anyone trying these? It's a by-pass(what 's this all about?) but with only one filter. Can someone explain the difference between these double filter by-pass systems and these single filter units? Seems the single filter units would cost less.
 

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Just depends on what you want to do. The full flow system is often needed by the engine design, and a change to bypass directly in this system wil fry the engine for oil starvation. The combo units address that issue by allowing normal full-flow to remove larger particulates and by pass for the itty-bitty stuff.

Some combo systems are grossly over-rated in that their bypass elements don't have a fine enough micron rating to really do the job. You have to check that closely to KNOW what you're getting. With spin-ons in a combo system you can tailor it to suit with whatever filters will fit the threaded adapter of full flow and bypass sections.

All units require an oil restriction somewhere in the bypass system. This siphons of a small portion of oil for super cleaning, while the full flow system also cleans and supplies oil galleries with needed lube. 99% of the time you need both, unless the engine is specifically designed to use bypass only, like some Studebakers of the past.

Using a separate stand-alone bypass system can be much cheaper. You can plumb it in where and how you want and decide on the exact filtration you want. Either system can work very well if you do your homework on what's actually offered, beyond hype and BS, and cut to the chase on actual specifications. Even within the same mfgr.there can be BIG differences between their products, so call the tech lines or whatever and pick brains until they tell you straight up. Then compare specs and decide what's best for you.

The add-on TP filter types offer the best filtration to smallest micron rating, but several spin-on catridge units go down to 3 to 5 micron which is plenty to really clean your oil.
 
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