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Discussion Starter #1
I am coming up on the end of this swap journey I am using a mercedes 4X4 labs adapter kit and was wondering if anyone here is using this kit and having starter issues and if so what was done to remedy it
Happy Hunting
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I had a ton of issues in my XJ. What starting issues did you have specifically? fitment? key-on? Relay stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had a ton of issues in my XJ. What starting issues did you have specifically? fitment? key-on? Relay stuff?
well the starter is too close to the crank by .005 (ofset by .0010 ) which is bottoming the starter drive into the new starter ring.
also the glow plug relay draws a lot of current through the key on wire little red with black stripe
so cranking issues
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had a ton of issues in my XJ. What starting issues did you have specifically? fitment? key-on? Relay stuff?
what kind of problems did you have i am guessing an ax15 transmission
archie
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This will be the next step (as recommended by a friend)
the commonly available ofset pins are not hollow so this might be interesting
 

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That video is not a good example.

He's using a DTI, not a dial indicator. A DTI is not for measuring anything, just comparison. That should be common sense to anyone who owns one. Total wrong tool for the job. Even worse that DTI has no name on it. A chinese junk DTI is a very useless tool even if used properly.

The other part is gravity has a big effect on those kinds of measurements. He has a Chinese copy Noga base crammed in there and while it might seem rigid, it is not rigid enough for what he's trying to measure. There's probably 3-5 thou deflection just from gravity in that setup. You need a solid steel bar bolted to a crank bolt and an indicator bolted to that.

Basic machine shop 101.

My advice would be to speak with the manufacturer about the issue you are having with the starter. If you determine that the adapter plate is otherwise made correctly you could try carefully opening up the starter bore with a flap wheel on a die grinder until the starter works correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well enough bashing. is a solid nsk base and a starett button mike good enough for you. (smallest one i have) manufacture is no help i will get it sorted out...
 

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well enough bashing. is a solid nsk base and a starett button mike good enough for you. (smallest one i have) manufacture is no help i will get it sorted out...
YES... I just cast and machined a 1.9L VW TDI to T5 BW adaptor and I used a simple dial indicator with a magnetic base. That will work fine as it has for the hundreds of other people that have done it that way. The alignment is stated for a max of .005 radial misalignment on mine and Im sure its close on yours. The guy on the video did it just right. Gravitational deflection is an issue in some circumstances, but not on this one, and its easy to check, just see if it will move with slihgt pressure and if it does, it might be a factor.
I had my engine out, drained and on a stand front side down, just to be sure. I started by getting this allignment done , then got the starter where it needed to be. If this is a commercially made adaptor kit, chances are correcting this will correct your starter allignment problem. ALSO, the starter allignment is not as critical as most are led to believe. You can google it, but there are commercial application starters that have about half engagement (about halfway between the addendum and dendum circles) that run for years and are designed that way. ANd the last thing is: are you sure your starter pinion teeth are a correct match for your flywheel? I ended up using a Denso style starter so I could change pinion pitches, so I could use the Isuzu BW fluwheel and clutch setup. Keep up the good work, you will get there.
I ran an 83 300d turbo diesel in a Nissan 720 pickup for years, is was a great truck
 

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The guy in the video is using a DTI which is not possible to actually measure anything with. You get that? No?

If you want to shift the adapter it's kind of important to quantify how much it needs to move right?

And that setup will droop plenty. Saying it won't is careless.
 

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what kind of problems did you have i am guessing an ax15 transmission
archie
I remember something hinky with the alternator. Front steering was a mess. Power was usable after turning teh pump way up but then lost the head-gasket lol. This was an AW4 XJ tho..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
YES... I just cast and machined a 1.9L VW TDI to T5 BW adaptor and I used a simple dial indicator with a magnetic base. That will work fine as it has for the hundreds of other people that have done it that way. The alignment is stated for a max of .005 radial misalignment on mine and Im sure its close on yours. The guy on the video did it just right. Gravitational deflection is an issue in some circumstances, but not on this one, and its easy to check, just see if it will move with slihgt pressure and if it does, it might be a factor.
I had my engine out, drained and on a stand front side down, just to be sure. I started by getting this allignment done , then got the starter where it needed to be. If this is a commercially made adaptor kit, chances are correcting this will correct your starter allignment problem. ALSO, the starter allignment is not as critical as most are led to believe. You can google it, but there are commercial application starters that have about half engagement (about halfway between the addendum and dendum circles) that run for years and are designed that way. ANd the last thing is: are you sure your starter pinion teeth are a correct match for your flywheel? I ended up using a Denso style starter so I could change pinion pitches, so I could use the Isuzu BW fluwheel and clutch setup. Keep up the good work, you will get there.
I ran an 83 300d turbo diesel in a Nissan 720 pickup for years, is was a great truck
The starter is a ford style and bolts to the bellhousing so it does not shim in place i may need an older style starter there is a year break somewhere around 1976 so i think i need a 1972 starter the one i have is the later one.
 

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The guy in the video is using a DTI which is not possible to actually measure anything with. You get that? No?

If you want to shift the adapter it's kind of important to quantify how much it needs to move right?

And that setup will droop plenty. Saying it won't is careless.
Im not sure what you are referring to as a DTI, but that kind of indicator is used all the time to square parts on a mill. I have used them to square parts on my mill. It is very similar to a Biaxial indicator, which wouldnt be optimal but could also be used to perform this check. If it didnt measure anything, I doubt they could sell them?? you get that ... right?
Having said that, it would not be my first choice as I used a standard dial indicator and a Harbor freight magnetic base, and a bar type stand with twist type clamps and it worked like a charm. Duplicated the process after I had the engine upright before I installed the drivetrain and got the exact same measurement... zero deflection.
To the original post.... You say you are having problems with the glow plugs drawing too many Angry pixies? Is is the standard MB relay box or something different? There was one large constant power wire with mine and the IGN wire just tripped a relay that connected that constant power to the relays...... Is that the way yours works?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
To the original post.... You say you are having problems with the glow plugs drawing too many Angry pixies? Is is the standard MB relay box or something different? There was one large constant power wire with mine and the IGN wire just tripped a relay that connected that constant power to the relays...... Is that the way yours works?
Iam using the MB glowplug relay my jeep has a highly modifyed electrical system the relay big red wire hooks directly to the battery The Little red-black wire hooks to the ignition feed. when the little red wire it is hooked to the battery it cycles fine it appears to be drawing a lot of current.
 

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I dont have the wiring diagram anymore or remember it, but there was a wire that started the GP relay box on its cycle when the IGN was turned on, and there were a couple of other wires that I cannot remember what they do. I do remember that that relay box has a ambient temp sensor that lets em heat up longer, the colder it is. I know you want to get it working like its supposed to, but you could always just use a relay and let the IGN signal apply the pos to the signal wire through the relay you have hooked to the IGN now.
This time (with the TDI swap) Im just gonna put a push button on the dash and that will close a relay that will send power directly to the GPs. When I used the MB relay box, here in Georgia, I found that I really didnt need it every time I started it
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok,,,,, its alive with the correct junkyard starter , starter # 4 with a thorough bleeding and glow plugs it starts and runs. There is a leak from one of the plastic return lines....
I am wondering if the return line on the YJ is too small
Thank You
archie
 
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