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how good does POR-15 work on rust? i bought a 1960 ford and it has 50yrs of rust to stop and repair.
 

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I have used por-15 for several years now, it is a great product and works very well. I have found that brushing it on is the way to go, thinning it to spray seems to deminish its adhesion to the surface. It will definitely stop rust in its tracks! I am about to try a new product from KBS coatings, called RustSeal. And there engine paint. may post up a review when I get the engine and frame painted
 

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I have used POR quit a bit with great results. You need to make sure any loose material is off not necessarily the rust but large flaking pieces and loose paint.

Wear gloves and immediatly remove any that you gets on you with acetone or something, after it dries it will be there for a while.

I have never used the zerorust but have heard many good things about it. I may try it on one of my next projects.
 

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If you get any on you, you will be wearing that "badge of honor" till it wears off (it's like printers ink).

I've had good luck with it.

Mkae sure the area you are painting in, and the parts you are painting are warm (70*f or warmer) or it doesn't flow out right (adhesion is compromised as well).

I prefer to use the whole kit, Marine Clean, then Metal Ready, then paint, with a foam brush.

Just remember, it doesn't like UV, so top coat whatever it is with another paint.
 

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While all of these rust remedies work to some extent, nothing beats blasting the frame to bright and shiny steel. Then shooting a epoxy primer and a suitable chassis top coat. I use all PPG products and find them really tough.

Paul
 

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I have been using POR for quite a few years. The key in using it is using the "metal ready" part of it first. I am currently experimenting with using Penetone's "Wedac" in conjunction replacing the milder metal ready. Wedac is a combination degreaser and rust neutralizer but costs nearly double the price. Both Wedac and metal ready contain phosphoric acid which neutralizes the rust deep down in the pores of the steel. ON severely pitted rusted parts I am first glass blasting and then Wedac acid dipping. Wedac can also be used on aluminum as an etchant prior to painting. The penetrating qualities of POR permit it to get deep into the residual pores of the metal which contain the residual rust that nothing else seems to be able to get into. This is why you MUST wear latex gloves when using. A rag soaked with alcohol can remove any immediate spots that you get onto your skin but if it's there for more than a few minutes it will have to wear off on its own. The Wedac CONCENTRATE is on the Penetone website and runs around $50/gallon shipped, minimum second order is $200 so you will have to buy 8 gallons or go to a local distributor of which there are not many. Hazardous shipping is expensive & it comes with the hazardous shipping tag attached.
 

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I just received my order of POR 15 ... I ran out ... Stuff is great , there is no need to thin out the paint ... The trick to spraying por is a cheap spray gun , harbor freight or Home depot ... Standard suction gun will spray por and leave it like glass ... The higher end guns are designed for a thinner material ... The cheaper guns spray anything , I use one for spray glue .
I'm waiting for parts to roll in but have the truck up in the air and I am preping the underside of the body for grey por15 ... Harbor Freight has a cheap preasure pot setup and that would be great for spraying upside down ... I'll keep you posted on the pot .
 

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I just received my order of POR 15 ... I ran out ... Stuff is great , there is no need to thin out the paint ... The trick to spraying por is a cheap spray gun , harbor freight or Home depot ... Standard suction gun will spray por and leave it like glass ... The higher end guns are designed for a thinner material ... The cheaper guns spray anything , I use one for spray glue .
I'm waiting for parts to roll in but have the truck up in the air and I am preping the underside of the body for grey por15 ... Harbor Freight has a cheap preasure pot setup and that would be great for spraying upside down ... I'll keep you posted on the pot .
Did you use alcohol to clean the gun?

I have also used POR on propane gas line threaded pipe [note not tube] fittings and never had a leak!
 

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I use Lacquer thinner works just fine ... I have been spraying por with the same cheap gun for 5years and still does a great job .
Just picked up a preasure pot at Harbor freight today ... They had one that was high volume and one high volume and low presure ... I went with the high volume , that was more of a standard old school gun .
I'm still preping out the under side of my suburban , I don't think I will be spraying tomorrow but I will post some pics and a report on the pot .

Update ....
I managed to get the underside of my truck sprayed using the pressure pot . I will say the viscosity with the grey is different compared to the black ... The grey is much thinner .
I will say spraying por with a Harbor Freight cheap spray pot did work out for me but was allmost uncontrolable , I have sprayed with pots in the past when I had a shop .
The paint was perfect to spray , just the design of the pot was far from the best . I would not recommend this pot for any new guys .
On the flip side I was able to get up in the body where you would have a hard time even with a touch up gun ... yes you can spray with a small gun also .
I did 2 coats on the on a suburban and used about 3 quarts of Por ... worked for me .
 

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I used por15 on just about my whole project and i have no complaints yet at all, the main thing is you want to take your time on the prep work and dont be afraid to put it on thick.
 

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I have used Por-15 for quite a while now and i must say, it does do wonders! if you say your car has 50yrs of rust well its worth the try, i hope it works just as well as it works for me. have to make sure the surface is clean though so you can maximum adhesion and best results from it. also make sure you use the proper technique and always wear protective gloves, eye shield and masks, you can never be too careful especially when doing the job yourself.goodluck!
 

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im using chassis saver ive heard nothing but great things about it ..... they use it on industrial stuff and salt trucks with great results... i know what salt can do we have a salt truck we're scraping an 05 its gone cab mounts gone so much rust the engine is flaking... terrible the chassis savers supposed to hold up
 

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I used POR-15 on an old scout frame and it worked great, When I used it on some new steel tube that was welded on it didn't adhere well. Not sure if it was because the new metal didn't have any rust on it or what but I've heard it works best on semi-rusty stuff thats been cleans of dirt and chunks of rust.
 

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Used Por 15 on my Jeep frame after sand blasting then used their top cot and it is awesome. Cant scratch the stuff off, on that note if you get it on your hands be ready to be stuck with it for a couple weeks.
 

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Metal prep agent: Forget the fancy $tuff, just go straight to the source and use "Ospho" liquid phosphoric acid - green liquid in 1 qt. bottles from your local Hardware store. You won't find it at HD & Lowes, they stopped carrying any type of Phosphoric acid years ago, cant even get good "TSP" painters etch powder there anymore, just useless "contains no phosphors" stuff now :rolleyes:
 

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i media blasted the real rough spots the 2 coats of rustbullet.
 
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