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For the turbo size, it's stamped inside the turbine housing INLET, aka where it bolts to the exhaust manifold, not where the turbine housing is attached to the CHRA.

For the valves, I suppose that would work, but in general you don't want the valves touching the EDIT: pistons, not cylinders at all. Since you have the head off, just change them now.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
We are getting a bit of rain tomorrow (San Diego forecasters are terrible) so I wanted to make sure things were put away properly so I can not cause any more rust by leaving things out.

I checked the torque of the connecting rods and the main caps to verify that they weren't loose. They weren't so that's good. The bottom of this engine is really clean. At least to my eyes.
Bottom End by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Bottom End 2 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I also got the turbo cleaned up and clocked the way I want it. It was a bitch to remove as I indicated earlier. But you guys were right, it is a 12 housing. 12 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

How much of a pain in the arse?
Broken Housing by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Broken Housing 2 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

That much.

Anyone think that this will be a problem?
 

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Looks kind of rough. Did the breaks occur when you took it apart? It will probably seal OK but I'd seriously consider a different turbo If you plan any power level much over stock. That turbo is probably OK for up to 120 HP but after that you'd want the 6 cm2 HX30W.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Looks kind of rough. Did the breaks occur when you took it apart? It will probably seal OK but I'd seriously consider a different turbo If you plan any power level much over stock. That turbo is probably OK for up to 120 HP but after that you'd want the 6 cm2 HX30W.
Yeah, it broke apart when I was separating the housings. I am planning on getting a 6cm HX30W when I get it put in the truck. They really don't seem that expensive.
 

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I don't think you'll make money doing that. No one in the 4bt world wants 12cm2 turbine housings, and that's a small inducer unit too. Just recycle it, and be more gentile on the next one you take apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I wanted to check that the main caps and the rods were torqued to spec before I started assembling the engine back together. Sure enough, the previous, previous owner didn't touch the mains and the rods. That's good.

While I was in there, I pulled number 3 rod cap to check the bearings. I am very pleased with what I saw. So I torqued it back up and called it good.
2021-03-04_05-33-54 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr
 

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One thing you should know is Cummins does not recommend reusing rod bolts. Crank main cap bolt are OK but not the rod bolts. Those are not all that expensive and if you want to upgrade them you can get better bolts from ARP.
 

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Extra good call too Charles, considering the super long stroke on this engine. Lots of piston speed as Dougal was alluding to.
 

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Could you tell us who/where you ordered the pump through? I've seen the chinese pumps listed but the sites were all a little scary for me. I will be curious to see how it runs. Sure looks good.

Thanks,
Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Could you tell us who/where you ordered the pump through? I've seen the chinese pumps listed but the sites were all a little scary for me. I will be curious to see how it runs. Sure looks good.

Thanks,
Fred

I am going to send you a private message about this as I don't want to shoot out this lady's email address all over the internet.

I am sure the pump will work just fine, but its going to be a bit until I have the engine together enough to test it out. The pump DOES look legit. And I have seen that brand before on lots of parts. We shall see!
 

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Looks good. I've had every single piece out of my pump before due to water sitting inside it. I cleaned everything up and reassembled. Also resealed it before. I have a download of a Bosch manual as well as watched numerous Bosch training videos. The VE pump is not very difficult but seems to be kept shrouded in mystery. The aggravating part is trying to get even the most simple part for one of them. Ive had to resort to overseas sources. It seems that most fuel pump shops tell you "$900 plus core" no matter what. Rediculous. If you can rebuild an engine or take apart a firearm and reassemble you can work on a VE pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Looks good. I've had every single piece out of my pump before due to water sitting inside it. I cleaned everything up and reassembled. Also resealed it before. I have a download of a Bosch manual as well as watched numerous Bosch training videos. The VE pump is not very difficult but seems to be kept shrouded in mystery. The aggravating part is trying to get even the most simple part for one of them. Ive had to resort to overseas sources. It seems that most fuel pump shops tell you "$900 plus core" no matter what. Rediculous. If you can rebuild an engine or take apart a firearm and reassemble you can work on a VE pump.
I agree with you. My mom used to tell her mother, after her mom was frustrated about getting something she took apart back together: "Well Mom, it wasn't born that way!!!"

Bosch does a great job of keeping it's vendors and authorized repair people under their control. That means controlling the prices of their parts to these folks and limiting accessibility of the parts to the public.
 

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I used to wonder about the price of the rebuilt pumps until I watched a video when a guy had a rotary pump rebuilt. He went to the shop doing the work and followed the process from disassembly to reassembly. What most of us including myself don't realize is the extreme tolerances inside on of those critters and extremely precise torque settings on bolts and nuts. Also, cleanliness is paramount. Now we can do things like changing a governor spring and maybe install new seals, but there are places inside one of those where only professionals should go. The guy doing the rebuild said the fastest he'd ever done one was 3 hours. Parts that some of us may think are OK are often thrown away and replaced due to tiny amount of wear we may not notice. This shop has around 50 employees and different brands and types of pumps are done by different techs. This company also does turbos. They probably have a couple million dollars in machines and test equipment. You can begin to see why $900 for a rebuild job isn't all that crazy. Here's a link to that video.
 

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There is a reason why I won't quote a total price on any injection pump rebuild. VE or P7100. Just the labour to rebuild, parts are extra. As Charlie points out, almost every part needs to be inspected for damage, such as rust or just plain worn & then certain parts need to be measured. For example, if the fulcrum lever is bent or broken, that's almost a $400 part. If the head & rotor is worn beyond Bosch's spec, well that's over a $400 part, there is also the rollers, camplate etc etc that will show some damage.

Bosch is very proud of their individual parts & their pricing shows it. We rebuild many VE pumps & the build is less than $900 because they are in good rebuildable shape. Any company that is blank quoting $900 for a rebuild, is making money on some pumps & would be losing money on other pumps, so I would venture to say some people are being over charged to help pay for the customers pumps that need more than $900 of work or those pumps needing more than $900 work are just not having the parts replaced that should be. Maybe that's why some people don't have good luck with some rebuilders out there.
 
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