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Just so we got it all right here on one post .
Can someone explain Lock up convertor & None lock up convertor..
Yes...above video is one switch for 46rh OD.

There are 47rh videos which show how to wire two switches. One for OD and one for lock-up.

As you know, the torque converter in front of your 727 is basically a viscus coupler...allowing the motor to spin with the transmission locked in park (or, with the brakes on). Same for the torque converter that goes with the 46rh.

A lock-up torque converter locks the motor output to the transmission input at highway speeds. Thereby reducing the power loss which all viscus couplers induce. Slightly better highway MPG is the point. The TC is locked and unlocked, I think, basted on speed and torque. Anyway, guys who have the 47rh, and don't want a transmission controller, and want that lock-up function to work...generally, put it on a toggle switch.

I imagine one could decide to have the OD and lock-up on the same switch...I am not sure why that's not ideal...but, I don't think it is.

Roy






























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Papitt, in general terms, the lock up converter acts sort like an engaged clutch. Regular torque converters have a certain amount of slippage so full power isn't really being transferred to the rear wheels. The lock up converts is transferring more power to the rear wheels and another benefit is better fuel mileage. Less wasted power.
 

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One cannot have a LU converter with a switch only, unless one remembers to unlock it every the time engine will stop(awkward). A NO or NC appropriate switch hooked to line pressure will turn LU off automatically!

Ed in CO
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
ED What does NO & NC stand for .... & Which trans are referencing .. the 1st ...91.1/2 to 93....
or the 94 to 96 tran.
Thanks for all the input guys .
I seem to have forgotten 50%. of what I knew from the dealership 15 years ago.
thanks
............
.........OK I just remembered Hobbs switches NORMALLY OPEN & NORMALLY CLOSED ..
..............................
... Can you explain that a little more.
I MUST not be understanding the Lockup Completely ..
DO This toggle switch I'm saying I want to use.. DOES It put my trans into O/D & NOT Let it shift in & out of 3rd & 4 o/d 4th gear. Is it keeping it into 4th gear So when I slow down ... under 41 mph it doesn't shift down until I flip the switch .
GOOD FOR HWY DRIVING . BUT NOT the best for drusing around the loop in town at 40to 45 mph in town.
SO Don't you just leave the O/D Toggle turned off.
thanks .
 

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1. DO This toggle switch I'm saying I want to use.. DOES It put my trans into O/D & NOT Let it shift in & out of 3rd & 4 o/d 4th gear. Is it keeping it into 4th gear So when I slow down ... under 41 mph it doesn't shift down until I flip the switch .


2. GOOD FOR HWY DRIVING . BUT NOT the best for drusing around the loop in town at 40to 45 mph in town.
SO Don't you just leave the O/D Toggle turned off.
#1. Yes, you are correct. Must flip the switch.

#2. Yes, you are correct. One generally does not flip the switch while drviing around town.

Roy
 

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so I high jacked someone else's post. so I'm getting my own post going.
I'm needing a 47RH / A618... 1994 OR 1995 ..
I NEED The engine adapter & starter also. ANYONE GOT ONE.
... I have a 2000 dodge auto o/d .. I can trade ... .
......................
.......But for my question .. I'M looking for an O/d To add onto my next project. THIS IS a Rat ROD TYPE OF A BUILD .. I have a 1989 6BT it's just the 727 trans. It's bad or not working. SO WHEN I replace it I want to swap to an O/D . I want to use toggles switches to make it shift into O'D. IF the toggle is turned off it'll not shift up into O/D .
so WHAT I'd ask . & CHAR Answered that I need a 1994 or 1995 47RH OE A618 TRANS . & I will need the engine adapter & the starter..
Question will I need the flywheel from the 95 also. or will the one from the the 89 work.
& Is there any other O/D Trans that'll work . Or might be a cheaper way out..
This rig won't see but maybe 3000K MILES A YEAR.
so Cheaper will be a big help..
.........
............SORRY IF THIS DOESN'T MAKE Sense, without my other post.
I'M GOING TO GIVE a run down on what parts I already have & Parts I may need.
... SO After getting the Dodge frame stripped of the dodge body. I can set the front end of the frame & on blocks .
& Then I'm going to replace any worn front end parts .. I know I need a set of coil springs & I'm thinking while it's apart I'll need to replace the Ball joints . I can align it mostly in my shop. .
Tie rod ends & those other steering part could be replaced later if they don't feel bad at1st glance . I've got all the tools to replace them .
Seats inside the cab. I've got 2 sets not sure which set I want to use.
1st set are out of a Mack Truck Gray in color correct color for inside the truck . 2 seat will most likely fill the inside the truck . Their thick & No holes in them. But just ugly & Flat. Not classic looking at all..
Now my other set are from a 1987 Dodge ramcharger but their Blue . They'll need to be recovered. But I have the center blue console if it'd fit .. & I have the bottom floor board with the correct holes & latches for those seat to bolt back i place . I think my gray seat Will bw my 1st shot. Because I plan to paint the dash & Inside door panels with that SPRAY CANS OF HAMMER FINISH SPRAY PAINT . SILVER .. SO THAT'LL GO GOOD WITH GRAY SEATS .
... Then I've found a Glass tech that has said he'll replace all the door felts & some of the regulator items inside the doors . About $600.oo But that's one of the 1st things I want done because I think that a hell of a deal.
HE SAID THIS TRUCK IS EASY AS He's done several . RUBBER TRIM AROUND THE DOORS seem cheap to me also.
WOOD For the bed I can do with the Tools I have. I had a friend who had Scrap Ash Lumber but He's stopped that side of his business.. SO I'll have to find some on my own or buy Pine from lumber yard . There is a saw mill up the road that mills Cresoke Hi-line poles for trailer floors . OR CUT MYSELF about 2. 15 to 18 inch Oak or pecan trees & 8ft long each & take them to the mill & have them cut. They'll sure have to be cut & bolted in place fast . they'll split fast .. I have the 16 inch tires already mounted on THE STOCK STEEL WHEELS & ONE Of my grade sons paint those rims . SO THose will work until I can find those Chrome 16 wheels I want .& I know where a set of these are if he'll sell them tome .
. Here my famous last words As I have a bunch of electrical wire in my shop . I'm going to say the rear light forward are not to hard ... & Wiring from the front head light & blinkers not a big issues. I Hope . I have a big box of wiring connectors & 2 prong adapters & tape probably 500 different terminals on hand. . I even have on hand rear turn signals & stop light from trailer jobs So That's all paid for.
I have a couple of new Trans cooler s & Power Steering coolers on hand . & I'm Hoping I have my radiator situation figures out .I think my 52 Ford radiator will work . But it doesn't have a trans cooler in it . But I believe my external cooler will cool my trans . & I'm rather sure the 52 radiator is big enough. It's like 3 times bigger than my 4BT uses. & I don't even use a cooling fan on my 4bt . But yes I'll need a fan on this job.
& I have 3 welders & FARM LOAD OF Scrap metal for brackets & Grinders & item to bend the metal in new brackets To mount the Ford body . Wire welding the Ford Body in place to mount up with Dodge floorboard section. I'm not sure how tough Wire welding those 2 floors together will be. But I've got a GRAND SON That a certified welder.
I've got lots of Spray insulation for Stopping the air flow into the cab. & stopping dust entering & I can spray inside the doors to soften the noise. Dropping a heater core behind a blower fan can out out some heat for the heater . Not totally sure how to get it up to the front window to defrost it.. So that gives ne an excuse to Buy that AC Unit to go under the dash. & Then it's defrost & heater flexible hose to the rescue.
& I can reuse the original AC Compressor . & I have several 25 ft rolls of brand new ac hose.
SO Buy about 4 aluminum Barbed fittings. Good to go. I hope.
I know it'll not be as simple as I made that sound . But hopeful it work out .
& I've even got a case of Ams-oil & he filters on hand That'll save about $200.00.
My motor had had Amsoil in it since its 1st oil change. & It has 183000 miles on it .
& If I can get a trans, I can change the trans standing up on my new slab I had poured just for this job.. & I have a transmission Jack just fixed up for this job.
... What do you guys think. If tou want to come help build this project I CAN PROBABLY Get you a rent house & YOU CAN GET A 2ND JOB & STARVE TO Death with the rest of use locals.
... THANKS FOR READING TO THE BOTTOM .

don't use spray foam... it absorbs moisture and promotes rust... a transmission cooler is fine but you need the cooler that has antifreeze that cools and HEATS" the fluid.... especially in cold climates.... too cold will also ruin a tranny... it should look like this: 855497 Cummins Mercruiser transmission cooler... I never met a cummins 4 or 6 that ran warm without a load... you might find that bigger radiator is hard on the motor as it doesn't get to proper operating temps... (my 6bts ran 165 degrees constantly unless loaded...) hope this helps
 

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don't use spray foam... it absorbs moisture and promotes rust... a transmission cooler is fine but you need the cooler that has antifreeze that cools and HEATS" the fluid.... especially in cold climates.... too cold will also ruin a tranny... it should look like this: 855497 Cummins Mercruiser transmission cooler... I never met a cummins 4 or 6 that ran warm without a load... you might find that bigger radiator is hard on the motor as it doesn't get to proper operating temps... (my 6bts ran 165 degrees constantly unless loaded...) hope this helps
I must disagree, with "too cold will ruin tranny", as synthetic fluids negate the too cold issue found in non-synthetic trans fluids in most cold areas enhanced by a weather front. I've found that without added heat from cooling system to Dodge automatics, the trans will heat up to the point of boiling off any condensation, then vent it out the case.
I block the standard Dodge vents in the trans pumps, use a vent drilled on upper part of trans case at edge of bell housing, then another vent on the overdrive, or 2 WD and yet another on the t-case, all end high up on the firewall, vent too a snorkel as needed.
 

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I must disagree, with "too cold will ruin tranny", as synthetic fluids negate the too cold issue found in non-synthetic trans fluids in most cold areas enhanced by a weather front. I've found that without added heat from cooling system to Dodge automatics, the trans will heat up to the point of boiling off any condensation, then vent it out the case.
I block the standard Dodge vents in the trans pumps, use a vent drilled on upper part of trans case at edge of bell housing, then another vent on the overdrive, or 2 WD and yet another on the t-case, all end high up on the firewall, vent too a snorkel as needed.
here in northern Minnesota where -30 F is common and-40 F is not that uncommon... the best morpar mechanic I know says its a problem.. at those temps you plug in the block heater... and that heat gets transferred to the tranny when you start it.... and he has been doing dodge stuff for over 50 years..
 

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AMSOIL full synthetic transmission fluid pour point is -53c or -63.4f.
Not asking anyone too volunteer to do anything, just put out what I have discovered, and do with my transmissions...
 
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